desoto1939

Ok if the part number that JCMILLER put in your post is 1119410 then the corresponding Wagner Part Number FC10593 The picture of the brake block will be the one in the upper left corner Part number FC10594 and has the A,B,C,D holes for the brakes lines Hope this is the one you are looking for. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Brake Block.pdf

I will try to look this number up in my Wagner parts book to see if there is wagner number that corresponds to the mopar number Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

Mike: My 39 Desoto has the single wheel cylinder so the setup of how the wheel cylinder is bolted to the backing plate is different that yours. I will let one of the members that have your braking setup reply. I do not want to give you any wrong directions.. Also when replacing the lower wheel cylinder be careful on the push pin that pushes the brake lining. I know some people have had issues inwhich the pin was a different length and this was giving them all kinds of issues. Save you older push pins as a reference. I think someone else will chime in on this topic. Rich HArtung

In your last posting I can tell that you have not worked witht he Lokheed brake system. The pin that you are mentioning are the eccentric pins. These are not perfectly round they are an eccentric pin. They move the bottom, or also known as the heel of the shoe inward and up or downward and out. The pin is used to get the shoes to match the arc of the drum so that you have a good braking surface and to have the shoes in perfect alignment to the drum. Go to the technical section and review the process to adjust the brakes. There isa section on the use of the Miller Tool and also the Ammco Brake gage tool. If you have no experiecne of adjusting these brakes then do NOT again Do not move the eccentric. Get to know how they work first. As many of the forum members know that the use of the Ammco brake gage 1750 will help get the brakes adjusted properly. If you mess around witht he eccentrics then you might have a brake shoes dragging and or have a very soft pedal. Yes to your question you place a 1/2 open end wrench onthe flat spot on the eccentric to move it either clockwise or counter clockwise. Since you look to have new lining on the car You might beable to just clean the lining and fix the leak and not have to do anything witht eh eccentric pins. I do loan out the tool. If you need the tool contact me. Rich HArtung I live near Valley Forge PA. cell 484-431-8157 Home 610-630-9188 Desoto1939@aol.com

Hey Matt why rebuild the pump when you can get a new fuel pump for almost the same as a rebuild kit. If you rebuild the pump then get the longer rod that goes through the body of the FP and that has the little c-clip on the end to prevent the rod from backing out of the housing. Look at Don's posting about the rod that he got from McMaster. And then you do not have to worry about if you rebuilt it correctly. Just my 2 cents. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

OK here is your answer to the tie rod ends Passenger side use the ES 60 Right and left Right is closest to the tire the left is closest to the pitman control Driver side uses ES131 Right and Left Right goes to the side of the pitman control the Left goes to the side of the left tire The numbers that I have listed were used across all manufacturers. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

When someone is asking the forum members for help to locate a part or specific parts for your car there is some basic information that is needed. Some of the member have catalogs with part numbers from various manufacturer. But these various part numbers are not all used on all cars and trucks. So the BASIC INFO that is required are: Year of your Car/Truck Model of the Vehicle Make of the vehicle If asking for Dizzy parts the Model of the dizzy: Such as IGTxxxxx IGSxxxxx Generator/Start the same infor IGXXXXXXXXX Carb if you have the carb then model on the air horn stamped into the metal So the basic info is needed we can not read your minds and we also do not know the info from your sign-on id and or even a picture of your car because this might be different that what you are looking for. So some input from the members will help to get an answer to your request. We are glad to help but we are not mind readers. Tks, Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

what year and model of car is needed to do a search in my catalogs. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Most front seats were a manual adjustment with the small knob or lever that was along the side of the drivers side of the front seat. If you have a power seat than this would have been added by someone. So is this an option I doubt it but I might be wrong. Did you install the pwer assisted driver seat and now you are going to install the 12 volt system and hook up the seat to work on the use of a power switch? Rich HArtung.

Hey Don: Just added a picture of the tool in the posting for tools. Have you ever used one of these tools? Rich Hartung

Here isa a real nice tool to make it eaiser to set the gap for the points. This tool eliminates the taking the dizzy out of the engine and you do not have to have the ppoints setting right on the point on the cam. refer to my posting on the use of a snapgap tool. I have two f these tools. Here is a picture of the tool. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

I know some people ask how to set the points gap on their distributor when the dizzy is in the engine. If you have ever tried to do this then you will know that it can be done but you will take some time to get the cam in the correct poition so that the high point on the cam is opening the points. There was a tool made to help make the job easier for the mechanics. so that you did not have to take the dizzy out of the engine block. The tool is called a snap gap. Basically there are several metal rings that slip over the dizzy cam. The rings are made for specific model dizzy;s. They tne have a gaping tool that you use to gap the points. So you take the cap and rotoe out of the dizzy then push thar apporpirate metal sleeve or ring over the cam. You do not need to have the points on the hight point of the cam. The take the gapping tool that has the appropriate setting adn the adapter feeler blade and then gap the points to the appropriate opening based onthe feeler gage blade. The points can be at any point in the run around the cam. Then when you pull off the sleeve that points will be perfectly gapped. This permets you to regap the points with out taking the dizzy out of the engine. I have two of these tools one in my tools box in the car and another in my tool chest in the garage. I use this on my 39 Desoto. Attached a picture of the tool. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Glad the tool worked to solve your issue with the adjustments on the brakes.

Ok I took some measurement of my spare front brake block Number 668929 which was used from 1937 - 1940 on at least my Desoto. ok looking down from the top hole which is the brake light switch. topright brake line is 5/16 the flare nut is 1/2 bottom right, top left and bottom left are all 1/4 brake line with 7/16 flarenut hope this helps rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Don: Thanks for postin gthe various examples of the use of the Blue Dots in the lens and inthe chrome surrounds. In my reference to the use of the Blue Dots I was refering the use of them directly being put into the glass and or plastic lens and not to the use of them as the reflector in the Chrome surrounds. Also thanks to Ply Adams on the update on the PA LAw for the use of the blue dots. So any one that is going to install the blue Dots should also contact their local state laws to verify if they are legal or not legal. You might get a ticket or you might not. I gues it depends on how tight the local and state police want to enforce the laws or just want to bust your chops. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Ply Adams: Thanks for posting the Revised PA state law on blue dot lighting. See we all leran something new everyday. Rich HArtung

As Don posted the top hole is used for the brakelight switch. Also the hole or port for the master cylinder line I think is a bigger hole and larger piece of tubing. I will check the spare one that I have and make measurements becasue mine still has the lines and the flared end attached to it. Yes these are expensive so that is why you have to be careful when threading the flared nut into the unit. ALso on yours the four holes are on each side of the block on Dons it seem as if one of the hole is coming out of the block on the side of the block that faces the engine block. On mine and yours the holes would be facing the front of the car townards the rad - 2 and 2 holes facing the rear of the car towards the cowel. Rich HArtung

If you are talking about the blue Dots that the hot rodders installed into the rear brake lens on their cars, I do know that these were illegal in many states. tHEY AFFECTED THE COLOR OF THE BRAKE AND RUNNING LIGHTS FROM THE REAR. I know IN PA they were illegal to use. If you are talking about the use of the Blue Dot that was installed in the chrome trim surronf then they might provide a warning or reflector for a car coming up from the back. The factory Dot would have been red and they would have been glass and looked like a red marble but were reflective at night time. Sometimes you will see that Mother MoPAr use the small red flector style dot like what you could use that had a wing nut on the back to attach to your licence p-late to alo help warm motorist when approaching from the rear. I have seen both stle used inthe chrome frame on my 1939 Desoto. But the true factory would be the glass cat eye marble style. LAter on Mother Mopar then would but a round bulb on the left rear taillight lens and this smallround bulb would have been only used on the left tiallight. This bulb would have been painted silver or of a refelctive type material. This was to warn approaching motorists if your car was parked along side the highway at the curb. So If you see a car that has both of these bulbs onthe right and left this would be incorrect. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

There isa NOS 36-42 Front brake block tee on the bay $76.42 can be found under 39 Desoto but this will work for your car. MArting Are you saying that your fron brake block is a straight across setup horizontal unit. The factory brake block is a vertical unit just lik the one I just found onthe bay. I have looked in my Wagner Catlog for a wagner number and they do not list this brake block so I can not provide you with a Wagner number. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Asdon has stated either pump will work. I prefer to have the glass bowel so you can see when there is sediment in the glass bowel and then you can take the bowel off and cleanout the glass. This is your first line of defense and then also have a fuel filter just before the carb to catch anthing else. Just my two cents. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

If you can not get a replacemnet hose to fit your car then go to a good auto supply and get the two brass fitting for the fule line end and the other for the in line hole onthe pump then get a fuel line rubber hose and then some allegsator screw clamps and make you own. Screw inthe two fittings into each hole then put the clamps on the rubber hose and attach them to the fittings and screw them tight. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

I think you might have to drill holes inthe front splash gravel guard, metal that is between the front bumber and the grill. I have a 39 Desoto but my bumper arms supports are visable so I can attach my forglight brakets directly to the support. I am not 100% sure but I think this is the answer that you are looking for. Let someone that also has your model car give you the reply. Rich HArtung

I had met Frank several time over the course of 25 years. When i was the chairman for the 13th NAtional Desoto Convention I approached him while at the Hershey Fall swap meet and I discussed if he could provide the Convention with some form of Donation. He immediatley gave me a $100 gift certificate to we could use as a raffle item. We all know of people that might have had issues with Frank when he was running the business he but overall he tried to help when ever he could to promote the hobby and to gett he old MoPAr cars and trucks on the road. I know he sold the business awhile back to another owner. May you rest in pease Frank and hope you get to enjoy some time in heaven with an old car. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Bruce: See if your camera has a setting for taking pictures for email. This might reduce the size and should permit you to attach the picture to the Fourm posting. Rich HArtung

Joe: I would call the shop that did the repair and ask them why they chnage the size of the posts and also to get them to tell you which post is field. They should beable to tell you. Rich HArtung