DonaldSmith

As far as I know, the DeSotos and Chryslers had the semi-automatic. There were some commercial DeSotos with stick shifts, maybe New York Taxis. I think Dodge offered the standard three speed, the 3-speed with fluid coupling, and later also the semi-automatic. The Dodge people can set us straight on this. So, "Fluid Drive" in red on the bumper, or in chrome on the side of the car, won't tell the whole story. I don't know if there was additional badging anywhere for the semi-automatics. If the carb has the wires, it's a semi-automatic. If "First" is missing from the shift pattern, it's semi-automatic. If it upshifts about 20 mph when you let up on the gas, and downshifts when you floor it, it's the semi-automatic.

Short answer: "Fluid Drive" means a fluid coupling between the engine and the clutch. Add to that a 3-speed transmission; good enough for some Dodges. Add a four-speed semi-automatic, and call it "Gyromatic" for Dodge, "Tip-Toe Shift" for DeSoto, and I forget what for Chrysler. The 3-speed needs no extra wiring. The semi-automatic needs two wires to the carburetor, one to a dashpot to keep the engine from dying when the pedal is let up, and one to kick down the trans when the pedal is floored.

I just tried to edit a most eloquent explanation of the situation, but it got deleted. I explained this Pertronix adaptation in a previous thread, but here is a short form, for the M-5 semi-automatic: Delete wire from (+) post of coil to PRI terminal of Transmission Relay. Add wire from (-) post of coil, through a 7 watt resistor, to PRI terminal. It works. Yes, contact Pertronix, and see past threads, for further technical information.

Here's a photo of the ignitor on the breaker plate. (I ground back the eccentric screw to get the ignitor to sit on the little posts; maybe I should have ground back the edge of the ignitor.) Both wires of the ignitor have to pass out of the distributor body, so I cut out the rubber grommet to accommodate the two wires. (The "grey" wire is the one with the grey stripes.)

The Pertronix wiring is way different than that of a points-type distributor, so clear your mind. With the points-type ignition, the hot wire from the ignition goes to the (-) post of the coil. (Positive ground:) The wire from the (+) post goes to the distributor, where the points interrupt the current to ground. With the Pertronix unit, the ignitor in the distributor interrupts the hot current to the (-) post of the coil; The (+) post is wired directly to ground. The ignitor goes in the distributor, so two wires go into the distributor instead of one. The black wire comes from the ignition, and the grey wire goes to the (-) post of the coil. I'll scare up some photos.

I had lots of fun with the oil filter piping when I had to remove my starter. You may have to undo some piping.

It seems that I faced skepticism on another thread, in saying that I could not turn the engine by fan belt even with the plugs out. Maybe these DeSoto engines are tight. I posted photos of prying the flywheel through the vent opening.

James! Don! Am I missing something? You know that the No. 6 piston comes up twice in the four cycles. Crank it around again, and the rotor will point to 7 o'clock. How would you know you are 180 degrees off? Which is the compression stroke? By the old thumb on the No. 1 spark plug hole? Now, if the cam is screwed up, who knows if or when you have a compression stroke?

The roof rack was standard with the Suburbans. Part of the haul-em-to-the-hotel equipment.

I had a visit today from 49D-24BusCpe, who lives maybe four miles from me, northwest of Motown. He brought his 49 1st Series Bus Coupe, a California car, to meet my 47 DeSoto Suburban. Both cars proudly represented the Mopar world. Photos:

I can't turn my engine over by turning the fan. I don't know why. The engine runs fine, but doesn't turn over by fan belt. It's the DeSoto 25-inch, 236 c.i., rebuilt some 15 years ago. So it's bump the starter and/or pry the flywheel teeth.

Turning the flywheel from the vent opening: Remove screen: Move flywheel with tire iron or similar:

56 Dodge isn't 12 volts? 56 DeSotos are, while the 55's are not.

In post 281, the finish is so clear and reflective, showing the wall studs, etc., that it was hard for me to figure out what each piece was. Once the pieces are on the car, they will reflect trees, sky, and happy people.

The amp reading at idle will vary with the charge of the battery and the electrical load. With the battery fully charged, and no loads like headlights or radio, the amp needle should be at or near zero. With a generator, the amp reading may be negative if there are loads like the headlights or an old-style radio. With an alternator, the reading should be near zero. If the battery is not fully charged, an alternator can charge it at idle, and the ammeter may show positive.

Vibrator- from DC to AC, so that the transformer can boost the voltage to 200 or so, then rectified back to DC, to work in the tubes. The heater circuit for the tubes, and the speaker circuit, remain at 6V DC. Before supermagnets, the speaker needed a 6-volt electromagnet.

The power steering pump was behind the generator and on the same shaft. The two belts were to transfer enough oomph for both the generator and the pump.

Why would gas be under pressure at the sending unit? Gravity, if the tank is filled up into the filler pipe. (I had lots of fun getting the hoses and clamps right and tight.) Gas heating up and expanding, in a non-vented tank, although running the car should offset this. Just my guess.

I have auxiliary 12 volts, using a second 6-volt battery. I use it for my pusher fan, on those rare occasions like parades when I need it. I just have to remember to charge the auxiliary battery occasionally. Thanks. I'll be looking around and figuring this speed control thing. I'll keep the boys informed.

I've got Fluid Drive, so I don't need the clutch much, but my left foot gets tired from holding the gas pedal on any length outing. Years ago I put a speed control kit on a Datsin, and I see some components on line for vintage cars, but I wonder if anyone has had experience with speed control kits for these cars.

My photo didn't open. I'll try another one, something bigger than my avatar. That's better.

So, in the meantime, you can drive your new car to the end of the driveway, and practice backing it in. Or you could just sit in it and hear it idle (keeping the garage door open). If it has the original clock, you can just hear it tick away, with a periodic rewinding thunk. Such a soothing sound, it brings me back to my youth, sitting in my dad's car. Happy motoring, even if it's just to the end of the drive.

Here's my Pertronix stuff. (The photo rotated on me, but you can see the coil. Non-descript. Maybe it says something on the underside. It's the 40011 "Flamethrower", 40,000-volt, 1.5 ohm coil.) Put that on a spitfire engine and it sounds formidable.

These sound like good, modern safety features, but not mandated for these old cars. Yes, I was concerned about my rigid steering column. Such columns have resulted in severe injuries and deaths. But we drive our cars so carefully. When I installed a power steering box, I introduced universal joints and a change in shaft alignment, just to get to the box. The result is a safer steering column. The shaft should buckle in an accident. I also have retractable seat belts, with the inertial lock.

This Suburban does not count-