DonaldSmith

There is a setscrew accessible by pushing the weatherstrip aside. See the little bump at the weatherstrkp in the photo below. (The screw is a real bear to remove if rusted. Maybe your screw is loose or missing.)

It'll buff out? How many of us are tempted to restore this here bidness coupe? Find some rare doors, rare rear glass, etc? Maybe just a mind game? No, I guess some cars are doomed to be parts cars.

Are we talking those flip-out turn signal indicators that used to be common in Europe? I remember a recent photo of a Chrysler that had some sort of light by the rear quarter window.

I've got the momentary on-off-on switch setup. We're re-plowing the same field. We covered this in a recent thread, but I searched for it and couldn't find it. There must be a trick to have it search "oil safety switch" and not hit every post that has the word "switch" in it.

Maybe there's gas in the float bowl already? Unless the ethanol evaporated away. Then it's crank, crank, crank. I don't kow how much cranking it takes to work the oil safety switch. Inquiring minds need to know. (Let them chime in.) In my case, the electric pump is for priming and boosting.

Search recent threads. (Searching is an acquired skill that will serve you well.) Some guys run an electric pump instead of the mechanical pump; some guys use the electric pump as a primer or booster. One critical safety point: An electric pump must shut off if the engine quits running and the ignition is on, as in an accident. Two ways to do this: Inertial safety switch, as in Fords of a few years ago. Bump or roll the car, the pump shuts off. Oil safety switch, which screws into the side of the engine in place of one of the plugs along the oil gallery. No oil pressure (engine not running) pump shuts off.

"Oil bath filter" - do you mean the air filter? Or do you mean the oil filter?

Here's where the shop manual helps. My DeSoto manual is probably close enough for a 49 Chrysler. Post with heavy cable from battery: Power for the starter. Also wires to power the horn relay, ammeter and cigar lighters (and convertible switch). Opposite post: Wire from the ST post of the key switch. Turning the key all the way completes this circuit and eneregizes the solenoid, to make the heavy-amperage connection to the starter windings. Post near the heavy cable post: Wire to the elecric choke: When the solenoid is energized, this partially closes the Sisson choke. Post kitty-corner from the heavy cable post: Brown wire to the A post of the regulator. The diagram shows a ground at the regulator, but also shows a wire extending to the A post of the generator. (On my 47 DeSoto, this provided a ground to the solenoid only when the generator was not running, so that the starter would not work when the engine was running.) I hope this helps, but a diagram would be better. But as Leslie Nielson told the frightened stewardess and reluctant pilot, "Good luck. We're all counting on you".

I hit the "L" on my leftie bolts with White-Out, to remind myself which way to crank on them.

My 47 DeSoto speedometer (out of the case) has a felt-lined oiling hole near the end of the threaded part that receives the cable.

My dad was the always-in-a-hurry type. He told me once of the time he was driving with his father, my grandfather. Grampa took off, and then shifted from first to second. Dad suggested that he shift into third. Grampa responded, "I'm going fast enough."

I mounted my fan sensor in a tee, spliced into the hose to the top of the radiator. Since the functon of the sensor is to ground the fan relay circuit , I ran a copper wire to ground the sensor and tee to the rest of the engine.

Search "oil pressure safety switch"'. Look up the post, "Help with a electric fuel pump".

Sure looks like a 5. What's the engine number? Maybe years ago, someone misread it when they filled in the paperwork.

I remember my dad telling me that when cranking a car, do not close the hand around the crank, or the thumb may be broken by a backfire. Engage the crank with the handle at the bottom, and lift only.

"Out" is towards the steering wheel, and down is the usual first speed location for a manual transmission. Many a parking jockey has wondered why a semi-automatic Mopar won't go into first gear.

As I remember, the pulley and damper assembly bolt to a hub. The hub needs a puller to remove, but the pulley can be unbolted. One of the bolt holes is off the mark, so that the pulley can only be installed with the timiing marks in the right location. Similarly, the key in the hub assures its proper location.

If you have the semi-automatic transmission, there will be wires running to the carburetor from the transmission. These wires, on the right side of the transmission, can be seen from beneath the car, but better with the floor pan access cover removed. Remove the access panel, and you can see wires running from the solenoid, governor, and interruptor switch. And yes, there is a pump in the transmimssion, to send the 10 wt oil into a piston that performs the semi-automatic shift. My shop manual shows this extensively and explains the operation. With either type of transmission, you may have some wires on the left side of the transmission, to control a backup light.

My 47 DeSoto (Tiptoe Shift semi-automatic) has a tag on the transmission that says to fill with 10 wt oil. The usual transmission oil would be too thick for the upshift plumbing. (And the fluid coupling gets the AW32.)

Here's a trick for filling the coupling: Small pipe nipple in the fill hole. Larger 45 degree elbow, with reducing bushing. Funnnel.

Here's a photo. The fluid coupling access is by that fluorescent shop light. There's an oblong access panel in the floor and a round access plug in the bell housing. The small plug is in the coupling itself. Have fun turning the coupling just right. (Underneath, there's a vent screen. You can remove the screen to pry the flywheel by hand. You have to turn the coupling so that the plug is at the bottom, to completely drain the coupling. ) (To the left is the access to the transmission electrial components.)

Ring, ring (Caller ID says Cleveland 216-539-etc.) Wife: "Hello?" Person calling: "Grandma? ... Some of us boys were out drinking ... I didn't have that much, but . . . . . . .etc, bond money, etc, etc." Wife: "I'll let you talk to your grampa." Me: "Hello?" Disembodied voice: "Grampa, can you write down my case number? etc, etc, etc." Me: "Is that you, Benny?" Voice: "Yes, Grampa". Me: "You rotten kid! You deserve to rot in jail! You've caused nothing but grief to your parents!" (Hang up) (I don't have a grandson named Benny.)

Summit Racing, CRT-A68301, "Oil Pressure Safety Switch - Recommended When Wiring Electric Fuel Pump (Mfr. # A68301)" It cost me $17.97 plus shipping, back in July of 2015. I'll keep looking for the McMasterCarr double throw switch which I used. 7343K28 Toggle Switch, Sptd, on-Off-(on), 10 amps ($9.92 back in 2010)

"CB" for "circuit breaker". It doesn't burn out and need to be replaced. The oil pressure switch screws into the block instead of one of the plugs along the oil gallery. It's the thing with the three yellow-insulated contacts. I installed it on an elbow and nipple, to be more accessible.

OK martin 53, here's a sketch of my fuel pump wiring. The switch is double throw, center off, with one throw constant on , and the other one intermittent, providing power while the toggle is held in position. The common post of the switch feeds the pump. For priming, hold the toggle in the intermittent position. For running the pump constantly, flip the switch the other way. Power for this position is controlled by the oil pressure switch. The N.O.position is closed only while the engine is running.