Sniper

I just slotted the lower adjusting bolts on the inboard side, you know where the nut is. Use Dremel tool. And I can loosen the nut adjust them with a screwdriver then tighten the nut up you'll have to take the drum off and get a socket on the other side to torque the nuts down so much easier than that tool

That rule is invalid with our flatheads in fact it's pretty much invalid for anything not a small block chevy. If you read what the service manual says about oil pressure with the op is seeing is what is expected. 40 PSI at 30 miles an hour or so Road speed and any indication of oil pressure warm idle. That is what the factory service manual calls for

Since your generator is not working you are reading battery voltage there, less any line losses.

Dang you Bingster, I had a flat tire on the way home from work today and I had to change it out in 100° weather. I Blame You. 😁

I think someone is used to rebuilding engines where the harmonic balancer blocks some of the timing cover bolts so you have to pull it to finish tightening those bolts. In the case of our Flathead that's not really applicable

5.5 volts is a well-discharged batteries voltage. A fully charged battery should be 6.3 volts and your charging system voltage needs to be higher than that.

Snap On reamer how to video, seems a better choice but as Ken said, factor in new cutters.

You are all guessing. With out edifying information we cannot honestly point him in a good direction.

Engines need three things to run Air Fuel Spark Which is missing? We can't tell you that, only you can tell us. Once you sort out which is missing then, maybe, we can help you find the issue.

Sounds about right, I ran into an issue years ago when I was working on a car and needed EFI hose, my daughter ran to the parts store with my hand written list that specifically said EFI hose. She came back with carb hose and I asked her about it, she told me she just handed the list to the clerk and he got it all. So I cleaned up, went to the store with her and talked to that clerk. He just cut off the requested amount of the proper hose and exchanged it, so I got EFI hose for hte price of carb hose, lol. Anyway, I did a quick look up, online, at NAPA and that's the price for J30R9 hose so you are probably ok. The carb stuff is half that. The carb stuff is only rated to 50 psi, EFI to 225 psi, Didn't want you to have an engine fire.

Make sure it is rated for fuel injection use and not carb use. It should be labeled SAE J30R9.

Can't help on a ridge reamer suggestion I've had mine since the 80s and I don't remember who made it lol. However I would cost you to be careful using it because you don't want to go overboard and gouge up the cylinder walls which is a possibility if you get carried away trying to do too much in one turn.

Depends on the V8, SBC are notorious for the factory style valve guide seals to be junk and do exactly what you are seeing.

Color of the smoke? Did it smell of burning oil?

When I was dealing with stuck valves I learned that no penetrating oil worked worth a darn. Some old timer told me to try brake fluid, it worked. Might help here?

I need to add, Rockauto has them in stock, do a part number search.

Interesting, I DDG'd that number, Autozone says they have it in stock. However, they say it only fits a 50 and 51 Windsor with a 251. So I dug out the factory parts book and it tells me that all 6 cylinders from 36-54 use the same cam and crank sprocket and timing chain. OE part numbers are 601 760, 601 757 and 1075001. I then got to SA Gear website, downloaded the catalog and presto that SA 73111 comes up crossing to the OE numbers I found. Thanks Dartgame.

Thanks for the source, Ken. Not sure how I ended up there other than to say my nom de plume might be Savoir-Faire.

I would suggest using Teflon tape on the threads of those screws that way they don't rust weld themselves to the block and snap off in the future.

You know I use the Milwaukee stuff at work myself. The M12 stuff though. However a lot of the construction guys I see are out there running the Milwaukee M18 stuff and those guys live by their tools.

I bought my son one of Harbor Freight's earthquake air power impacts. That thing has what it takes to get the job done. If you have an air compressor you might consider going that route. The problem with batteries is that they're not cheap they don't last all that long to be honest and you kind of stuck to that brand and when they quit making it then what? I still have my very first impact gun, airpowered, and I bought it in 1988 from JC Whitney.

When it starts looking like the Leaning Tower of Pisa you probably gone too high

Heck just see if you got a spark when it happens. Maybe observe the color of it if it's orange it's weak if it's blue it's probably strong enough

I mean it's essentially a hydraulic pump so I wonder if a hydraulic shop can handle it? I can't imagine there's much in a way special seals and gaskets and such?

Anyone consider a reduced head flange bolt?