Loren

I decided to be a sport and "step up" to the seven button Mopar 812 radio. I've been looking at one on eBay for some time. I've also decided to give Dan Steele a call and see what my options are. As I said I like tube radios and there are some songs from my era that just don't sound right on modern equipment. For an example, The Grassroots "Live for today" sounds way different.

Coolant will also give you a white smoke in the exhaust. That's the glycol burning. If the car has power brakes a white smoke cloud following you could also be a leaking Master Cylinder. Brake fluid is made of glycol too. You can get a quick test kit at NAPA which has a tool that fits in the radiator neck and holds a blue test fluid. If you have a blown head gasket a one way valve allows gases from the radiator to bubble thru the fluid turning it golden when combustion gas is present.

In the good old days your upholster made their own. There is a sewing machine foot which funneled a cord of the appropriate size and a strip of the desired material under the needle and sewed them together. Of course you could buy a roll already made but if you had a unique color you made it yourself. You are limited in length to the width of the material but I have seen two strips sewn together (on a 45) to make a longer continuous piece. Most Upholstery shops use a machine like a Consew 206rb which is a copy of a Singer so the feet are plentiful. On eBay a "Welting/Cording foot" is $9 or $10. You will need to know the size of the cording you're going to use. The cord is available at Joanne's in most cities (and you might find the foot there as well).

My 1952 Suburban has a Radio with 5 buttons labeled "Tone 1 2 3 4" I've seen others with 7 buttons labeled "Off 1 2 3 4 5 Dial" My question is which is the better radio and why? I'd like to convert the car to 12 volts and save the old 6 volt parts that will be changed so there is a pathway back if some future owner might desire that. I like the way tube radios (and amps) sound so I plan to convert the radio (from the inside out) to 12 volts as well. This means buying another radio, hence the question. I had a 1949 Plymouth once and loved the chrome plated radio facade. I always found the 1952 rather plain. So I am thinking about having the replacement radio surround chrome plated as the paint likely won't match. Any thoughts?

I had a 1964 International Travelall with an R 10 Overdrive stock. I absolutely loved it and the way it worked. Of course I had to know everything about it so I could recognize the parts. It was equipped with a Delco "Window Distributor" which I thought was very desirable. It needed a tune up so I installed a Perlux ignition, coil, 8mm spark plug wires and an MSD HEI cap & rotor. I mention this because I did hook up the ignition wire from the Overdrive relay and it functioned like the car had a point type ignition with zero ill effects. The purpose of the wire is to momentarily cause an open circuit at the ignition coil in order to relieve the pressure on the drive train to aid in shifting the Overdrive. It preserves the Overdrive by smoothing out the action of shifting. If you analyze the electrical action the coil simply does not get a ground for the briefest of time and therefore misses a spark cycle. But the driver does not perceive a miss. I've pretty much convinced myself the stock wiring is the only way to use these things. Also I like the Mopar mounting of the kick down switch on the carburetor instead of through the floor board like most every other car maker. The bracket is super simple but the real issue is the tab on the carburetor throttle...if the carb doesn't have it you'll have to make one to weld, braise or bolt on. So from my experience you can have an HEI ignition and use the original Overdrive wiring.

I am completing a 12 volt conversion of my car’s generator. Basically you replace the field coils and the regulator. It’s claimed they will put out 40 to 45 amps, which is enough even with a tube radio. Tube radios can drain a marginal battery pretty quickly so one should not use them for extend periods of time while parked. The kits come with all the rebuild stuff except a new key for the pulley. You should have a hydraulic press as the coils will need to be formed to the generator body and it will help to keep the screw driver from climbing out of the field coil screws when tightening. To get the screws out I used a hammer and chisel. You tap on the edge of the screw turning it counter clockwise. I’ve had real good luck with that method. Also I bead blasted everything as when you put the field coils in you want the surfaces absolutely clean and rust free. To get the coils seated property you have to use the press to force the shoes to bend the coils to fit the contour of the housing. I used a bar through the inside of the housing resting on two blocks to buck up the ram. Some time later I’ll have some photos.

I totally agree that Helicoils done right are great. A lot of new stuff is engineered to have Helicoils especially in aluminum. We all remember VW case savers. Eventually VW put them in at the factory before the head studs could pull the threads out. A Helicoil can actually strengthen the fastening by spreading the load over the larger thread (which is the reason VW installed the case savers at the factory). My beef with Helicoils is the slip shod way some people install them. They don't bother to re-drill the hole after they have butchered it or if they do it isn't round or straight or it's oversized. I've seen the tab wedged in the bottom of the hole, a turn of the Helicoil bent and out of it's groove or the hole too shallow for the Helicoil. A through hole gives most guys a better chance to get it right than a blind hole. There is just a whole lot that can go wrong. I'd much rather not have a part that's been Helicoiled when I have a choice. Just my humble opinion, a Helicoil can save your butt or it can make for bad day if you have to follow someone else's mistake.

It's a matter of opinion of course. An original thread is straight and well made even if it's a little worn. Helicoils are usually slap-dashed repairs made by uncaring shade tree mechanics, from my experience. I spent too many years working in dealer's service dept.s and I wasn't impressed by my co-workers. When you have to follow somebody else's Flat Rate repair you don't have a high regard for things like Helicoils and Scotch-locks. Timeserts and Keenserts are much better if done well...if not then the scrap pile grows. And yes I have used Helicoils (and keep a set of 8mm x .125 and 5/16 x 18 close at hand) but only when I have no other choice. I have a 25" block with 3 broken manifold studs in it. Since it is very heavy and a little too big for a Bridgeport mill, I am going to rent a "Magnetic Drill Press" to drill them out. That way I can be sure to drill straight. I am going to make a fixture for a drill bushing that will be held down with two other stud holes so it won't wander. In this way I will try to save the original threads.

Another 2 cents. When you replace a bolt (or stud) that goes into a water jacket make sure it is only long enough to use all the threads in the block plus no more than one. If a bolt is too long it will corrode inside the water jacket and will be a candidate for breakage at sometime in the future when removed. Also use plenty of thread sealer such as Loctite or ARP's Stud sealer. They will stop corrosion on the threads and counter intuitively make it easier to remove later on. All threaded holes should have a tap run down them and cleaned out with a blast of air or carb cleaner. BJ Blaster or Kroil is a God send on threaded fasteners. On blind holes when a bolt or stud breaks use a "Left handed" drill bit in reverse to get the stub out. If you're lucky it will catch and unscrew the stub. For thru bolts use a regular drill bit in forward to screw the stub into the water jacket (because it isn't coming out). Next tip is to get a "Drill Bushing" and a drill which just clears the threads. You might have to have the outer diameter (of the bushing) ground down to fit the associated part (in this case the water pump) or carefully drill out the hole in a scrap part to the size of the drill bushing (on a mill or Drill press you've checked for straight). For an explanation of this go to www.syndersantiqueauto.com, Model A, Engine, Motor Parts, (bottom of the page) Head Stud Drill Out Kit, View Details. Basically you use the cylinder head to hold the drill bushing straight and in the right place. I've done 6 Model A head studs and they all turned out like new! You will spend sometime picking the remains of the stud threads out and you'll benefit if you have air pressure but you won't regret the effort. HeliCoils are an unsatisfactory solution for a last resort fix.

It's curious idea that a rear main bearing would be different between transmissions. The only thing I can think of is the Thrust but that would be more important on a manual transmission with the clutch pressure than an automatic. I'd like to know what the difference is. I could see HyDrive being different but not an Automatic. I just got a 25 inch engine apart and the Thrust flange had ripped off the bearing. The engine came out of a forklift so it had plenty of clutch actuations in it's life time.

Well I wish you very good luck! I’ve ground tapers and I can tell you it is devilishly difficult. Be prepared to make a lot of scrap. Even with really good machinery it would be a miracle to get it right on the first try. I am sure there are people who grind tapers all day who have the skill to do it but they are very rare so be patient.

The standard automotive taper is 1 1/2" per foot. If you have one of the parts you can calculate it out to one foot. Since Ball Joints and Tie Rod Ends are hardened it's always easier to ream the Pitman Arm or Spindle to fit. Google: Automotive Tie Rod Reamer and you'll find all sorts of them from automotive suppliers like Summit Racing and Speedway.

Back in the days of point type ignitions I lived in San Diego. The first rain of the season every year was the day I joyfully went to work at the dealership. All the cars that wheezed along all summer finally quit when the moisture got heavy. The tow trucks gathered them in and we had plenty of tune up work. When points went away so did that business. The electronic ignitions would fire the worst caps, rotors, wires and spark plugs. The solution to the owners problem was a no brainer, all new ignition parts. Usually they picked up their car and it ran so much better than they remembered we were "geniuses." Then we wouldn't see them again for at least two years. There was a big housing development to the north and all the houses were built before the code requirement that gas water heaters had to be on a platform 18 inches off the floor. When I'd go home that night there would be a news story about an explosion and fire. The film would show some dazed guy being wheeled to the ambulance with his garage smoking in the background. When the car wouldn't start some folks would attempt to repair their own jalopy. Because it was raining and cold they would close the garage door and somewhere along the line decide to wash some parts in gasoline. BOOM! It happened so many times it was predictable and we just had to laugh. I think the local TV stations sent their camera crews out there waiting for the fireworks because it seemed like they always got there before the fires were put out. I guess I am cynical.

Years ago when I used to pre-run the SCORE off road race courses with a 1980 Scout, I as expected bent the one piece Drag Link. I had been told it was a weak link in the steering so I knew it was coming. The fix was to get an old Scout Tie Rod from a wrecking yard then cut off the threaded ends. To get the adjustment for toe, IHC used tie rod ends with course and fine threads, both right handed. When you twisted the Tie Rod it screwed on one end faster than it came off the other so there was an adjustment available. Then you'd get a tube that fit over the threaded stubs and welded it together. Now you had replaceable ends, a stronger Drag Link that didn't bend and adjustability to center the steering wheel after an alignment or taller springs. The stock Tie Rod Ends were plenty strong and rarely wear out. My guess is the repair cost about $20. And do not worry about tapers. There is an automotive standard for tapers. The only difference is the diameter used. That's why I put IHC tie rod ends in my drag link. If for some reason you can't get matching tapers you can get an automotive tapered reamer and and ream the hole out. This is the charm of owning collector cars.

I found the tube! The only problem I can see is that you have to change the socket from a 7 pin to a 9 pin. The tube is called a 12AU7. It has within its envelope two 6C4 elements. You only have to use one side. Its easy to figure out the pin wiring as you can get a radio schematic on this site then the tube fact sheet online. Vibrators of the mechanical type are not polarity sensitive. Their function is to create "artificial" AC by switching on/off with a polarity change. However, solid state vibrators are very definitely polarity sensitive, so you have to "get it right" the first time. The last piece in the puzzle is the "Vibrator Transformer". The vibrator creates a type of AC which can then be used by the transformer to "step up" the 6 volts to 530 volts to run the vacuum tube heaters. To change from 6.3 volts to 530 volts you have to change the number of windings in the transformer. I haven't found a 12 volt to 530 volt transformer yet but they have to be out there. Otherwise....one could be re-wound or custom made. Its not rocket science. Again you've got to love pain if you DIY it.

Years ago when I was younger and stupider a guy offered me a 1968 SAAB 96 V4 that had sheared off the oil pump drive shaft. Not owning a trailer or a vehicle to tow it, I decided to just drive it home. I put two extra quarts of oil in the crankcase and set off with ZERO oil pressure. The trip was from Lancaster to Burbank, CA just about 100 miles. It made it without a problem! On tear down I expected to replace all the bearings and maybe more. All that was required was a new oil pump driveshaft and a pan gasket! Maybe I was lucky, I don’t know. I’ve since decided it’s not worth the anxiety, besides I have a trailer and a truck now.

There's an EDGY cylinder head on eBay right now. At last look it was up to $960. There was also a Spitfire head. Looking at both of those and a stock head, there doesn't seemed to be much difference. Certainly not $960 worth. The current EDGY heads have the Navarro ledge over the exhaust valve which is intriguing but is it worth $1,400? I used to get into big arguments with my Dad over parts. I tell him "You don't need that and you can spend your money better elsewhere." To which he'd reply, "I don't care what I need, it's what I want that counts!" I was an expert at pushing his buttons so I'd follow that with "Yeah I know if it don't go Chrome it!" Anyway, I suspect that a stock head milled for compression is the most effective way to get a little more compression for the least amount of money. Once I get the cam back I will check the valve clearance at maximum lift, then I know how much it can be safely milled. Knowing that in spite of the fact there is clearance, there is a point of diminishing returns. You can reduce the intake flow on some engines by milling too much. Ed Winfield said that 7.5 to 1 was the max for a Model A Ford. The Chrysler is a much different ball game. The heads have a lot more room around the valves and that 4 3/4 inch stroke gives plenty of time for cylinder filling. Besides that stock iron head appeals to me. Everybody expects an aluminum head engine to go fast, but stock heads are under estimated.

Can't disagree. My training was in racing and one thing you learn is that if you put a gauge in a car it really has to have a critical function. Another thing is the more gauges you need the more marginal the car. The last car I built had no tach, no oil pressure gauge and no temp gauge. Only an idiot light to energize the alternator. The driver (if he's doing his job) hasn't time to be pondering over gauges. Round "steam gauges" are usually turned in place so that the needles all point straight up when things are normal for that reason. On a street car, if it has a gauge, I prefer that it works properly as expected. Most do not. The error of speedometers from the factory is considered "commercially acceptable" with + or - 2 mph (Commercially Acceptable is a General Motors term for "we're not going to fix it"). In fact as a kid I remembered reading magazine road tests which included speedometer error as a test criteria. Knowing what the error is could be helpful, that's why I spent so much time at the speedo shop interrogating the techs. Speedometers are easy to check now days as most GPS units have a speed indicator. Tachometers require a trip to the speedo shop (you'd be shocked to know they operate on a curve and can be off wildly at different RPM. They usually are set accurately for idle and red line, everything else is "relative") Temp gauges can be compared with other known good gauges as with oil pressure gauges. Fuel gauges can be wired up and checked on the bench but that's a lot of trouble and only gets done when you know somethings wrong.

Good job! Function testing before you install is a great idea. I test all my batteries before installing (and after removing) them in a device. I find some devices don't tolerate weak batteries but things like flashlights do quite well. Amp meters are not the most useful of instruments as far as I am concerned. I'd rather have a voltmeter. To test one set up a battery and a load with the amp meter inline. The needle will dip when the load is applied. If it says CHARGE then swap the leads. The meter is polarity sensitive. In operation once the battery is charged and there are no loads the meter will read near zero. That's why I don't care for them as most of the time they tell you very little. An idiot light is more definitive, it's either on or off. But that's found in the next generation of cars.

Parts prices really do vary wildly! Check eBay. Everybody sells water pumps and oil pumps. I've seen prices for the very same part vary 300% on the same eBay page! Conclusion? Buyer seriously beware! You'd be surprised how many parts can be had at the chain stores like NAPA or O'Reilly and some are not only cheaper but of more modern design (seals in particular).

Lol Not too likely.They’d have to stroke it 1/4 inch which is somewhat beyond what is economical. I think the block is being cleaned so they can make one phone call and get all the answers they need to proceed.

I just got back from the machine shop. They looked at my crankshaft and pitched a replacement to me. The idea of welding every journal and the thrust didn’t appeal to them even for the quoted price. When I protested that they didn’t have a core, I was told they got two in today. ? So I am waiting for word on what will happen next. Another piece in the works.

I wondered what that was for! They went to great expense to provide a way to check the stroke on these engines.

Your photo of the dash and the front bumper sure make me miss my '49! That wood grain was so beautiful! I sold the 49 because it had a bad memory for me. It had sat for about a year unused with a bad bearing in the transmission. My Uncle came back from the Air Force with no money in his pocket. So I thought I'd gift him the car. I went out and got a transmission from a wrecking yard and I was under the car installing it when the phone call came that he had had a heart attack and died. After that I had a hard time even looking at that car. Selling it was a bad move on my part. The buyer abused the car and abandoned it. So my emotions are torn two ways. Thanks for taking such good care of your's!

What you are looking for is cubic inches. On these engines the 237, 251, 265 all use the same bore and pistons, the difference is in the stroke. Rather than "artificially" wearing out your block, I'd change the crankshaft and rods. When you start getting bigger bores you also find that the head gaskets wouldn't accommodate overbores much more than .060. A very common crank & rod set will give you 237 cid, cheaply and reliably. If you want more the price and availability reflect the scarcity. A 265 4 3/4 stroke crank and rods takes a mighty wallet and determination. It really is a "no pain no gain" situation! That said, there's a big improvement going from 218 to 237. More stroke, more torque.