lostviking

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Do you have the factory service manual? I bought mine from RockAuto. Mine shows all the terminals on the switch, so if your diagram doesn't, and it's not a factory manual, you might consider buying one. They are pretty cheap. My switch was perfect on the inside, I figure your is probably also. The terminals on the outside however were very "used" looking. I doubt the problem with the switch is internal (but I'm married, so I've been wrong before). I'll assume that you are working on the 40 Plymouth, since you didn't say (or I missed it). Maybe post a picture of your switch. My manual doesn't show any switches with only four terminals. What is the exact model?

The fact that it happens at traffic lights and immediately drops, even in 98deg air, shows that it's the poor air flow of the stock fan. No shroud will do that. How much do you worry about "original" appearance? If that isn't a problem for you, I bet you could build/modify a fan shroud that will take care of this for you. If the coolant and oil levels are correct, I don't think that's something to worry about. 98 is hot, not much air moving at idle...try not to stop at lights

The 218 flywheel and the 230 have different offsets, so you might have trouble. I'm not sure, but I think it is because the crank flange is different. That seems to be like your starter and bell won't be correct. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in.

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Tim Kingsbury did a nice write up on the subject of heating the intake. I recommend reading it, as it is full of real data not just opinions. This is one subject that many people have strong opinions on. His article, I believe in his blog, goes over all the details and why he recommends not doing it. The AoK intakes don't even have a provision for doing it. But it is your car.

Good luck Jim. I'm pretty sure you will get something going that is better than the stock setups. I'm only using two carbs (not installed yet), but even that will give better fuel distribution. A carb for each intake port is IMHO, and many others, the best bet. I look forward to seeing you work on this.

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Marked sold currently. Hope you got it if you wanted it. Probably a 218 and typo, looks like fluid drive...none of that is a blocker though. Use your 230 crank/rods/flywheel et cet and you have a 230 that bolts into your car.

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Should be in the manual as to where it's connected. I'd answer more direct, but I'm at work right now. The knob pulls to enable the wiper, one for each side if you have both. Regardless, you need manifold vacuum to run them.

Take a look at this thread. I took mine apart and cleaned it up. You can see how the brass bar shorts the disks to make contacts. I'm betting you can clean it up, they look pretty beefy.

One thing I'd suggest to anyone who needs to write a book on this forum and use overly complex wording to sound knowledgeable, please proof read your posts. It takes all the wind out when you don't.

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Wow! After a hundred years or so, a solution to a problem the manufacturers never saw, and one I've never experienced.

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If it was doing this before you rewired, then the problem isn't in the new wiring. Never start modifying when something is wrong. Fix that first, or completely eliminate it and start from scratch. You can't fix an existing problem, by adding to it without any correction.

Simple answer, the lamps and the relay don't really care if you car/truck is pos or neg gnd. IF the relay has polarity shown, like the picture above, pay attention to it. Otherwise, it's just a electronic switch, so don't over think it.

I've been doing component level troubleshooting for 45-50 years. The best way to figure out what's wrong, is to draw the complete wiring diagram out. Every single wire. I don't really think you will get to the very end, because the problem will become obvious as soon as you see it. Good luck. As was stated. the problem existed before you started, so that's where I'd start. Remove the new, fix the old, re-add the new. You can't look at the new wiring to fix a problem in the old.

I can't be sure, but I think the spring is to pull the bearing back so it's not rubbing on the pressure plate fingers all the time. That makes the most sense to me. I wouldn't want to have my throw out bearing doing that. Only takes that small (but relatively strong) spring to do it.

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It's a similar part is my WD15 (46). It keeps the bearing in contact with the "fork". Without it I don't see how the bearing would stay in contact with the "fork". It's not really a fork on my truck. Sorry, but I don't see any way to get it into place with the transmission in the bell housing. You have to reach through that hole to get it installed. This is a bad shot, but I wasn't trying to show the spring, which isn't there right now anyway. You can just make out the blurry image of a bolt that screws into the top of the bell. The spring goes through a hole it it's end. You adjust the bolt until the end makes the spring sit flat with the bearing aligned properly.

I think you know where the problem is. It's not rings or anything like that. White smoke IS water. Check the oil for water/milk shake. If you are looking at 0psi, it's a big leak. I'd be pulling the head like you mentioned. That will tell you everything you need to know. It is less likely to be a cracked head or block if it never warmed up, but hopefully you just have a major head gasket failure. Check the flatness of the deck and head surface also. Good hunting.

You could use a hose at the radiator fill, sealed maybe with a rag, and turn the hose on. Even with leaking there, you should see water come out the rear where the heater hose goes...if there is no valve, or it's open and not clogged.