Ward Duffield

dash lights

VPW has NOS 6V starters for floor pedal. I bought one for my WD-15

Well, what works on a P-15 convertible RHS in 2024?, Hmmm?

I have seen adjusting screws which are no longer self-locking and the lash can change. If you encounter that, instead of replacing the tappet or adjusting screw, you can extend the screw an extra amount and hit the adjusting screw threads with a punch, to upset the threads and restore the interference fit when the screw is run back down into the tappet body. Not pure, but it does save a ton of work

Who is running duals on a convertible? Where did you get the vacuum for the power top? How did you snake the exhaust past the X-frame/gas tank?

The Serial Number for my 1947 in New York is the Body Number. Motor Vehicle Dept. has zero interest in the engine number.

I have a 1946 Plymouth, stock engine, stock distributor, 6 volt positive ground Pertronics system installed. 6 volt positive Ground Westtech tachometer installed. The tach worked fine with the stock points, but I don't seem to be able to get it to do anything with the Pertronix installed. Can someone please give us a detailed scheme for connecting the tachometer when using the Pertronix module? Thank you

my 46 Dodge would never start w/ Pertronix, w/ the orig 6 v system. The cranking voltage was too low. went back to orig points- all is well

Hope you have a Parts Manual and a Service Manual by now...

The valve adjustment tips on this site are wrong. If you follow the Step A/Step B scenario as written, you will be setting some tappets that are NOT on the base circle of the cam. Note the duplications between step A and Step B; if one step is correct for a given tappet, the other cannot be, and vice versa. Make sure you can rotate the tappet you are going to be adjusting, by hand, before you start. That way, you will be certain that the tappet is on the base circle on the heel of the cam, and not on either ramp.

I am in the market for new 16" wheels for my P-15. Who has bought what, and how are they working out? The hubcap clip issue is secondary, it appears. And this is NOT parts wanted, this is Vendors sought. Thanks

Because it's fun. And if you work on your car with that in mind, you tend to be more focused and do a better job.

Most of my 6 volt Mopars have shown a red-hot headlight switch in use, I suspect from internal resistance from the old, inaccessible contacts. A major improvement I have made is to control a 6V relay with the headlight switch, and run a new home run to feed the relay, out near the radiator, then feed the headlights from there, all connections and grounds clean, bright and tight.

I would be very thankful if someone can point to a pattern or template for the above-mentioned rubber pieces (MoPar P/N 973 582 radiator seal): "The shop said the bottom tank on that rad leaks and would need to be fixed before use. If I ever have to use it, I will have my top tank attached to it for non pressure and because it has the mounting units for those little metal fins that mount atop the P15 radiators. I have the fins, but not the rubberized piece that attaches to the fins. Those pieces can be reproduced using some rubberized material, but I don't recall where to get it. I think greg g has a pattern for the rubber piece.......he gave me one once but not sure I can find it now. "

I would be very thankful if someone can point to a pattern or template for the above-mentioned rubber pieces (MoPar P/N 973 582 radiator seal): "The shop said the bottom tank on that rad leaks and would need to be fixed before use. If I ever have to use it, I will have my top tank attached to it for non pressure and because it has the mounting units for those little metal fins that mount atop the P15 radiators. I have the fins, but not the rubberized piece that attaches to the fins. Those pieces can be reproduced using some rubberized material, but I don't recall where to get it. I think greg g has a pattern for the rubber piece.......he gave me one once but not sure I can find it now. "

'46 WD-15 OUT OF Yreka, CA

I have a 6 volt positive ground PERTRONIX setup off a Plymouth P22 218, I'll let it go for $50.00

Diff looks great, but I have been mining some ugly gunk out of the axle housing. IF I had only realized I was going to do all this, I would have removed the pinion input shaft nut (TIGHT!) while the tires were still on the ground...

Hi Group What is the approved, currently available gear oil for our cars' rear axles? I see a lot of acrimony over GL-4 vs. GL-5, etc. Thank you.

OK and what is the approved, currently available gear oil for our cars?

OK- I will not seat the cups flush w/ the end of the axle housing. To extract the side I have already done, will compromise the new bearings, but so what. Once I have both axles out, why not pull out the differential, and rebuild that, too? Peace of mind. Thanks. Ward

OK, so if you need a puller to extract the rear axle shaft & bearing from the axle housing, the OD of the bearing race must be a press fit into the axle tube bore, right? If that is the case, how are you supposed to check the axle end play by simply tugging and pushing on the end of the axle? The free play is the distance the bearing race moves outboard until it contacts the back of the brake backing plate; this gap is controlled by the shims behind the brake backing plate. All perfectly obvious to me except my bearing race is too tight in the axle housing to allow the axle & bearing cone to move outboard at all. P.S. Do we have a new figure for high speed end play as referenced in some Service Bulletin from the 1950s? Clarification, please!

It would be great if someone could post an overall thickness dimension for stock cylinder head that are known never to have been cut!

Time to knock off all those pesky mosquitoes