Sam Buchanan

Here are two vendors: https://www.sandersreproglass.com/ https://www.vendio.com/stores/bobsclassicautoglass/category/plymouth-glass/catId=4144656

There is a wire in each end of the boot and I twisted it tightly to hold the ends in place on the drive shaft and trunion yoke. One wire was too short so I replaced it with wire I had in the shop. I had decided the boots were too large until I figured out the big end goes on the shaft instead of the smaller diameter boss where the rubber boots fit. Since I've never seen one these boots installed I was left to figure out how to lace it. Maybe one of our old-timers can chime in on the correct way to do this and I'll redo if needed. But I suspect each mechanic back in the day had his own way of lacing u-joint boots. This is what I came up with after the leather thong broke and I had to use a second piece. We'll see how this holds up with mileage, maybe this old-school tech is still effective.

I've had very poor experience with the aftermarket u-joint boots purchased from our primary vendors. Here is the latest one I installed after a few hundred miles of service: Installing these boots requires removing the driveshaft and is an extreme exercise in patience, frustration and creative vocabulary. There is a good chance the boot will be damaged during installation, especially by someone who hasn't installed several of the things. But this one failed even though it wasn't damaged, you can see the weather checking in the rubber. Leather boots were the norm back in the day and they are available from a Mopar vendor so I decided to try them even though I've never seen an actual installation. The torn boot was removed and this is what we have to work with. Here are the leather boots. I noticed after the fact that the brass eyelets are installed backwards on the boot at the top of the photo---even these simple items have quality control problems.....sigh..... Continued in next post.

Sorry that didn't work, but at least you tried it.

Yep.

Well then.............

Are we seeing a gap at the "lower bearing" indicating the joint is not centered in the yoke? Or is that a photo artifact?

Welcome to the community! Remote diagnostics is fraught with peril but a couple of things come to mind when reading your post. One, try setting your timing to 10*BTDC at idle. I suspect you will have a smoother idle and our modern fuels should handle the advanced timing just fine. You may then be able to obtain a lower smooth idle speed. Second, perhaps you have an intake gasket leak that is making some cylinders run leaner than others which could also result in difficulties getting a smooth idle. Try advancing timing, setting idle speed down and adjusting the idle mixture screw to see if this helps.

Marc, adjust the idle speed down to where it is supposed to be, that engine should be very quiet and ticking over like a fine sewing machine when it is idling. The video sounds like it is idling about twice as fast as it should be. Brake drum looks fine to me, the problem is almost certainly in the U-joint installation.

Let's clear up one item up front. It is obvious that you are very pleased with the generator system on your Plymouth and that is fantastic. I'm happy for you. I am also pleased with the alternator charging system on my P15. That is also fantastic, but it seems you are not so happy for me. Yes, my alternator definitely puts out more voltage than the old generator because it was......DEAD, even after two regulators! ? The alternator under light load puts out 7.5v at idle, with all lights that drops all the way down to......7.2v at idle. In regard to the ammeter in my car, here is what it looks like when idling with lights on. I haven't verified the accuracy of the ammeter, don't really care to since I place much more value on the verified voltmeter. The highest I've seen the ammeter after a cold start is an indicated 20a for less than 30 seconds as it declines to about 10a for a few minutes then back down to what you see above. I've never calculated total load on the system, never seen the need to since everything seems happy and the battery stays hot. The wiring in my car has received considerable attention and new grounds have been established on the head and taillights. The lights are bright, don't dim at idle.....and I like them. The wiring and alternator have been perfectly reliable since I returned the car to service three years ago after extensive shop time.

My alternator is 60a but that is really a moot point unless pulling a huge load like AC and/or electric fans. The alternator will only output the amperage the battery will absorb to accommodate the load in the system. Even after a cold start I've never seen my ammeter go past 15a for more than a few seconds as it recharges the battery. With all lights on it seems the total load is <10a once the battery is replenished after a start.

That's my first impression as well. There is a little runout on the brake drum but the shaft is wobbling ~1/4" near the axis of rotation. That amount of runout would translate to at least an inch of runout on the brake drum if the shaft is bent. I don't know how much/if a healthy brake drum wobbles, never seen one rotating at engine speed. Would also be a good idea to give the output shaft bearing a good look to assure it isn't shot and has axial play....but that would be a really bad bearing.....

You have a serious issue with the front universal joint, either mis-assembly or defective. That must be addressed, I wouldn't want to be running the car in gear in the garage with that wobble, something may fly apart!

Most of us just make our own alligator clip test leads........ But if you really want to buy something: https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-Alligator-Leads，15A-Suitable-Digital/dp/B0B66QPTYB?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AK1QMP8OV4LU7

Sounds like it ran out of gas.

text deleted

Thanks! I had looked for those a couple years ago and didn't find them. I ordered a pair, will report back when I see how they fit.

It's ok if someone finds me a date, too..............

If the flanges are very straight and one new gasket is used the bolts don't have to be that tight....grade 5 should be fine. Sometimes stainless hardware is used to prevent corrosion and stainless is softer than carbon steel.

I've lubed the u-joints on the driveshaft on my P15, they work fine and the shaft runs smoothly. But I've had to replace a couple of the ball and trunnion boots which have consequently split due to the sorry quality of the aftermarket boots sold by our vendors who should know better. Yes, modern u-joints would solve the boot problem but I hate to spend large $$$'s on a new driveshaft and retire a perfectly good original driveshaft. I would love to have a pair of leather boots but have been unable to source any. I recall from the past few years some modern or universal alternatives but have forgotten the details. Anyone have up-to-date info on boots that will work with our old driveshafts?

It may just need an "Italian Tuneup"........

Here is some info I pulled together in 2019: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50484-servicing-u-joints/?tab=comments#comment-535812

I would skip the Mickey Mouse approach and install a 6v alternator. When/if you decide to move to 12v you can sell the 6v alternator to someone on the forum who has gotten disgusted with trying to get their generator/regulator to work.

Don't set the radiator cap on top of the radiator while the engine is running! When it falls off into the fan, damages a couple of fan blades, the fan disintegrates due to imbalance and distributes shrapnel around the shop......you will have a memorable day. Engine sounds good--might be due to the video audio but sounds like it is idling kinda fast.

Rock Auto offers manuals and parts books in either hard copy or CD: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10593924&cc=1486874&pt=10335&jsn=377 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=14711425&cc=1486874&pt=10335&jsn=381