NickPickToo

Thanks, The manifolds were a bear to mount. Those are on with coper gasket spray and I hope they never have to come off.

Carbs aren't permanently mounted, just setting there for photo op. Suggestions? Is it a matter of simply flipping them or is there a better way

Dad says if I don't get this running he's going to varnish the wood stand and make this engine an end table in the man cave, next to the front seat we upholstered last year, with the dash turned into a novelty entertainment center ? Transmission and bell housing ready too! I noticed the thermostat housing is not original and someone deleted the w.p. bypass. Were blocking those off when we try to get this running, but researching how to fix it back as well.

Question: We will likely have engine and trans mounted into the chassis mid next week, but still a lot of work to do on body before we put it back on and wire everything up. What would be the minimum amount of wiring needed to get the engine to start and run? It will be a 12 volt convert so we are thinking of course plugs to distributor to solenoid to battery. battery to starter. Will I need to wire up the alternator to get it started? Anything else? For cooling we will block off anything except the engine to radiator related flow. Anything else to worry about? Thanks in advance.

No, no, no. this is the Plymouth forum: Benny Goodman, Stompin' at the Savoy https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=2ahUKEwjLsuvDgr7mAhXGUs0KHZwnDrgQ3ywwAnoECAsQIQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D5ky8I_H2RVM&usg=AOvVaw3Wkn9pNHEa27jQXvNGNf8T My engine came out of a P26, which could have been a savoy, so I'll be stompin at the savoy...once its running of course.

...in the beginning his ride was devoid of sound and on the first day he installed a sound system and then there was sound. He listened to this sound and said, "This is good."

Sorry I have to ask. So was there a limitation on use of stainless during the Korean War? Not before and not after?

I'm telling you, there is enough room in there to fit the guts of an x-box or to build out a mini computer. You can run a larger amplifier to push more speakers if you want because these are made much smaller these days. If you can preserve the external look then this is awesome. If you decide to much more speakers, you can run the speaker wires with the wire harness and you can exit where you want to set your speakers. If you don't want to cut into the interior for more speakers than the one up front, you can make boxes covered with your interior fabric. I'm doing something similar and I'm using the original speaker location for a center speaker then creating false sidewalls under the dash for left and right. I'm putting the rear speakers into the arm rests of the rear seat and thinking about a base box mounted to the back side of the back seat.

Question: There is a broad range in pricing for radiators out on E-bay from just under $200 to about $1000. radiators on other sites are typically more expensive. Not even sure I'll need a new radiator yet till we test the one we have, but outside of fit, what should I be aware of if we go to buy one. I suspect the price difference comes with a quality difference too? Any tips?

So the second part of my test was correct?? engage the plate / which applied vacuum / but finger over outlet and if plate stays in place until I let up my finger than vacuum is strong and holding. If plate does not stay engaged or slowly returns then there is a vacuum leak.

Ouch and I'm about to go out to the garage and install the mechanical fuel pump i rebuilt knowing I'll be rebuilding it next year after the ethanol gets to some of the parts that I didn't switch out...perhaps I add and electric pump to the "nice to have someday" list. ? On that note, according to my dad, my great grandpa was know to travel with extra parts in an old pickup he owned just for insurance. Said he use to get flack for the timing chain and gears till one day my grandpa was using the truck for a camping trip and sure enough, the timing chain went bad in the middle of the mountains.

Conceptually I get it, but confused about how I would find a matched casing with the lower mechanicals in good shape at a reasonable price. I was lucky with this one because everything under the plates was in really good condition. I'll put that on the "nice to have" list till we get this project on the road again. Do the points conk out so often?

Rebuild the distributor this morning. Cleaned it up last week. Greased the weights and repacked the bearing with dielectric grease. New condenser and NOS but very clean contact set, with an extra new set of both for future servicing needs. Between two base plate assemblies I was able to pull together all original screws and washers and have an extra set of the two plates as well although as long as I keep the plates lubed, I am not sure why I'd need these. I guess I could wire together a complete plate assembly and sell on eBay for some ridiculous price, but no harm in keeping them around for a while. The vacuum chamber seems to be working well. I'm testing it by holding the distributor close to my ear with the chamber outlet facing my cheek. When I move the top plate side to side, I can hear the air and feel the air on my cheek. Then when I engage the top plate and place my finger over the chamber outlet, the top plate will not return until I remove my finger. Could one of the zen master let me know if this is correct? Again, Dad was a diesel guy and says it sounds right, but that I'd be best to leave these question to the "gassers" ??? This is also a really nice piece of art and I can't get it completely cleaned so theres a nice oil stained patina on the housing but the tag is shiny and I can read all the printing. Nice!

we received our HL from WLS and its well put together, but as you said I was surprised at the material. Its a bit modern foamy to me. I would have preferred something that looked more like cloth. That said it was a reasonable price, and the color is great. Not sure I could have gotten sign off on the higher cost given where we are focusing the dollars already. Anyway, the pics at the top of this tread look sick. I only hope mine turns out half as nice. Yes you do need to take off the window trim pieces as the headliner needs to go up under this trim

Than you again! Im going to ace the thermodynamics essay in AP Physics next year BTW that's pretty much how the heat exchange on a CPU works whether air or liquid cooled. Amazing to think that all this was worked out long ago.

Thank you! That was were my thoughts were going too. Would the flowing water ever reach the appropriate temp. This is very helpful

Question: I was studying another thread on the forum about the Head Water Thermostat and Housing. Someone implied that taking the thermostat out for a vehicle that sets for long periods is okay. Just thinking through this in my head seems like this would just increase the circulation overall all the time rather than just when the engine was hot, so It's hard to think of that as a bad thing. What are the impacts to the full cooling system when the thermostat is deleted and what are the downside effects? Is the answer different for a daily driver vs a set for long time project? Hose fatigue?

So heres the story on the bolts. Initially the job quoted was for the engine internals, but Dad asked if he could clean, service and mount the head as well as clean and resurface the flywheel. Dad checked the invoice and the charge for the washers and head bolts was pretty small $38. Mr Adams gave dad the heads up that he just used grade 8. He said they were better then our old bolts, which he gave back to us, which were worn, stretched and some bent, and that if we wanted to source proper bolts for this we could find them as cheap as he could. He said my old bolt with the tapped heads (where the spring for the throttle attached) was in pretty good shape and I could probably reuse that and just look for proper head bolts for the rest.

So...they were ordered as Head bolts but...they certainly look like your common variety grade eights to me. Complete with the slash marks on the top. Hmmm. I'll ask my dad to follow up with Mr. Adams. Nice catch

Is it hard? I keep thinking if I just visualize the mounts getting replaced hard enough, then it will happen. We have worked out a game plan, got all the rubber and cut the basic pieces but I keep finding other things that are easier to get done so we put it off. I am certain that once I just get to it...

Okay, now locked in with primer for anything but patina. but not gonna lie, that patina covered head with new bolts was really hard to pass on. Sometimes it has a certain aesthetic, and it's like painting over someones art. When it's done right, you can tell the artist really cared. Transmission is ready to go too! We ended up replacing, seals, gaskets, bearings, small parts stuff, the synchronizer and the synchro stops. The rest of the gears had good teeth except reverse which was still in decent shape for another 5 to 10 years or more (that's a guess). Dad says that by the time reverse gives out it will be time to upgrade to a newer trans and differential anyway. He also called that cost-benefit. By then It will be 100% my cost which is to his benefit. It all in 2k, high heat engine primer. Two coats

Mr Adams did explain that until more recently adding the zinc was not as much an issue, but regulatory changes to how the oil is now mixed makes it more of an issue. I personally don't have a clue, but Mr Adams had some really nice engines and pictures of engines in his shops and some really cool tools too. Not to mention that putting something called "Z-Rod" in the engine sound sick as heck.

To clarify. Mr Adams said to use zinc always, but If I would like to switch to synthetic with zinc (z-rod) that I should break it in for 500 with normal 30 wt and zinc first.

Not an issue. This thread is already more like a the main cable on the golden gate. Makes it fun to check in more often