NickPickToo

We were going to go scarebird at first but I wanted bigger wheels and dad wanted me to go with larger front calipars anyway so we reached out to ECI. I believe Mark gave us advice on the setup we went with but we never asked Mark about the scarebird matchup as we decided that that we couldn't handle the complexity anyway. We're thinking about the front shock relocation too. Also, and very important, dad won't pay for new drive train. That's going to have to come after college when I'm funding my own "education" I want a T-5 on the floor someday and a new rear end too. Also thinking about making another car we own all electric someday.

Learned how to use rivet nuts too.

My first brake line Learned three things for sure. 1. It's easier than it looks so long as you don't need perfect curves for your tubing. 2. With the gravel shielding over the 3/16" tubing you need 1/4" clamps. We ordered 3/16" clamps 3. even with regular sweeping, our garage is much dustier than it's ever been.

I used 40, 60, 80, 100. I plan to take it back to 60 before primer. We still haven't gotten around to fixing the braces or floor. Procrastinating on the stuff that I'm most afraid of, but getting to a point where it will need to get done.

Anyone have a picture of a drivers side compressor & alternator set up for these engines? Also any one know where to source a bracket for this or have a good picture we can use to fabricate from? We were able to move the front mounting bracket back a bit on the slotted holes and it moved just enough to put less than 1/16" between it and the belt on the driver side. However I noticed that it's just slightly touching the raised support hump that's unique to my "NASCAR" setup on the other side. We now plan to use a file to slot out the holes on the bracket just enough so the distance between it and the belt is a little bit more comfortable at least psychologically.

I like the Nascar explanation. I'm going with that ?

Perhaps mine is a very special, limited release, raised reinforcement bump bulge edition of the Deluxe ?

Hmmmmm. That's another interesting lead ? Thanks

That would explain it. This engine would then have come with the narrow belt

Thank you. here is a more recent picture with the belt on. The raised spot does not create the issue, but you can see that my pulley does not stick out as far as yours SB. Also somewhere down the road, my pulleys were changed over to 1/2 inch belts and I'm pretty sure the original belts were wider like yours. The old belt I took off was frayed and there is evidence that there was a fender bender on this same side. PA, i think you pointed out a spot on the cowl many posts ago, and the sway bar mount was twisted on that side too. That said, the alignment and measurements on the front suspension seem pretty good or as dad says sometimes, "close enough for government work." PA, AD and DJ, your posts gets me thinking that I can either just push the mount back, or if I need more room, there is space on the mount to slot the holes in the mount just a little and that will likely create the space I need Thanks again

Back to this issue. My belt is slightly rubbing against the front mount. Not enough to fray it when running for a moment, but i think it would definitely be an issue when its in normal use. One option is to try to find and fix the alignment in the frame that's causing it to be like this. Another option could be to add a thin spacer behind the pulley. If I could get 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch it would be fine. I'm not sure how doable that second option would be. Advice?

That was exciting, but Dad's telling me that as great as that felt, the real pleasure will be when we hear, "the steady rumble of a good idle." His words. Hope to post that soon.

Okay, This video is from last night at about 11:00 pm. OMG!

Baby Plymouth here, Start the new year out right with one, two or three depending on your set up, that reads Edmonds Custom on the top.

Funny, we used ECI and they fit with non-a-dat type of work. But i see now, he modified his suspension to change the level where the spindle sits. Could you attach the article?

Why did you have to put the left arm on the right side?

So, how can you make such a post without pics?

Good point. In the least I can use it as the wire to fish with.

yes. Single strand. thinking we may link it to something a little more flexible in the wheel.

AllBizz49, this is what I worked out for pretty much the same setup as you have. More detail over on "My First Car" thread

Plumbing at the carbs is 5/16 CN inverted flares into a T for 5/16 inverted flares. We plan to use fuel hose from there to the mechanical pump which will have an elbowed 5/16 inverted flare nipple to take the hose. Nipples are long enough on each end to put two hose clips and also putting a little airplane sealant on the nipples to improve seal and grip. I may take that longer pipe on the front and shorten it to come in a bit closer to the carb. Before we seal everything in we also plan to try this with the pipes to the inboard side of the carbs, It fits both ways, and see which side looks cleaner. Need to work out the throttle linkage first. We got the material from O'Reilly's, but the mech at Diversified Creations (Brighton MI) bent the pipe for us at a reasonable fee. They bend a whole lot more pipe each week than I ever will, so It made all the difference in how this turned out. You don't want to see the bends that dad or I were able to make.

So I just ran the wire by itself. No fishing needed. I used one wire from door-bell wire which comes as two untwisted wires. 24 cents per LF at Home Depot. Its stiffer so it goes right up with no catching, but it's also flexible enough to easily bend into place when I add the wheel.

Thanks for the info. Most helpful. I also found the manual for my specific carb online from the Carb Doctor (Canada), so I know its assembled correctly. That will make for a smoother throttle functioning because you have the carbs internal spring working against the stronger linkage springs so there is always some slight tension on this. But I can see how you don't want your linkage springs to break and leave you at full throttle while on the road.

...or you'll end up influencing us younger drivers. Gun it Snipes!

Question: The throttle valve in my carb is open when its in resting position and then when the linkage on the carb is pulled against the spring inside the carb, then valve closes. That's sounds backwards to me. Is it normal on these older carbs? If its normal then I think we need to set up the throttle linkage to be pushing against the internal springs at idle (throttle closed) and then relaxed to accelerate (throttle open). If its not normal than perhaps the valve is on the throttle shaft backwards? Advice? If this is a confusing question I can post some pics Thanks