55 Fargo

This about says it all. Great tutorial on this topic.

Greg part of the reason could be this. This is not pressurized fuel injection system. So yes atomized fuel enters the plenum and is drawn into the intake manifold. Which 2 cylinders do you think might receive the most or best balance? If you said cyls 3/4 give yourself a correct mark. Cyls 1,2 5,6 get there's too obviously but not as effecient as 3 and 4. The runners on a slant 6 very long and balanced supplying to 6 ports and with a puny 1 bbl very asthmatic. Different movie altogether compared to a siamesed flathead intake and ports. I dunno Greg do you think a1 bbl intake supplies fuel to all the cyls in an equal fashion? I sure dont believe so. I could be off my beliefs but dont think so. If a center carb feeding 3 siamesed ports were great we would all have 4bbl single carbs for more power and perf as you see a lot on hopped slant 6s..

Hmm ive owned and driven a 218 cdn engine. Yes shorter stroke but still undersquare at 3 3/8 bore and 4.0625. A 265 will have much more torque and HP and it will be noticeably stronger even in stock form. The head on the 218 long block will have a much smaller CC. Because you would be using a 218 crank and rods your displacement would be higher than 218 as you now sre st 3 7/16 bore or larger with the 265 block. That in itself would increase the compression. You most likely can shave that head to attain an 8 to 1 comp ratio. How much would do it and be no issues with the valves or head gasket life I do not know..

Interesting on the fuel pump location. I have never seen a rear mounted fuel pump ever. Something odd or rare for certain applications Sodium filled valves have not co.e across these yet either but they certainly were manufactured for heavy duty applications. Yes a head off a 218 228 or 250 will increase compression. All have to be long block versions though.

Im not sure where you are doing your research. But on these engines with siamesed intake ports you are "full of misinformation " to say it nicely. A single carb is the least efficient method of fuel distribution with a design such as this. Cyls 3 and 4 run rich and cyls 1 and 6 much leaner. Now aint that fuel distribution efficiency? Oh its adequate, but its not more efficient at all. the most efficient is a carb for each intake port all 3 balanced to provide the best fuel distribution and atomization for each set of cylinders per port. Multi carbs good only at high speeds and WOT? I think you missed the boat on this. They are great in all ranges on this engine. Better fuel distribution to all 3 ports and much more efficient fuel atomization. No problem you can believe what you want, but the reality is quite the opposite of what you are claiming. I can go on much further to refute your claims and to demonstrate how a multi carb set up works more efficiently in all ranges, the benefits and the increased HP and fuel economy. However you would come up with some reason contrary, its quite evident you dont like multi carb setups and better exhaust flow for your own uninformed reasons. I believe others have also stated their responses in disagreement to your beliefs.

Love it Norman but why are you driving on the wrong side of the road...lol

You are so wrong on this notion, in most cases. Multi carbs better exhaust flow makes for better acceleration and for better fuel economy. Possibly can you share some data or experience for your opinion on this? You must have a reason to state this, please let us know..

Hi Norman, I agree 100 %. Have any data or cross comparison on the upgrades you could elborate on. I do think its so relevant to tell all of those who think or believe its a " show" upgrade fir soundcand to look cool. Your car is on You Tube pulling a camper? Thanx for your post.

Crank will not push pistons outta hole. With the 265 rods.( specific length for 265 crank). Thats 1 no. Crank fits thats 2 nos. They fit and work in the 250 block. Time to move on..

No and no. The block is the same. The piston goes 1/4 inch deeper into the hole with a 265 because of its crank and rods. Not because of the block..lol

More induction, more efficient exhaust flow = better breathing. An engine is an elborate air pump. These items are not just, " show & tell" they add power and efficiency. No its not a bolt on 50 hp. Its more like 10 to 15 hp on the upside. For added torque you could run headers or duals into 1 larger exhaust pipe. Siamesed port intake 1 carb in the middle not very efficient but 2 carbs or better yet 3 way more efficient. The more balanced intake with more exhaust flow the better the performance. Simple physics.. just an FYI these engines by nature are about torque. They come into their peak torque at a fairly low rpm. Lo g stokes do that. Now cam specs will alter torque too but you have a tame stock cam profile anyway.

Best wishes on your treatments and recovery. Your health and well being comes first. I commend you in persevering during this difficult time in your life...take care

T120 its somewhat of a " rhetorical question "....lol Feel free to fill your yards and sheds with old cars, parts and dreams....lol

Hey Man you must have a lot of time? You mention a lot of projects. Get any on road this past year? I cant get over how some of youse, have all kinda projects on the go...

No they are not polarity sensitive. Only thd radio

This is not a real difficult conversion. 1) 12 volt genny and regulator or a 12 volt alt. 2) starter motor can handle the 12 volts or source a 1956 12 volt starter 3) all bulbs 4) 12 volt signal flasher 5) ballast resistor for coil or 12 volt coil keep spare ballasts in glove box 6) reverse polarity on amp gauge and/ or install an aftermarket volt gauge. 7) heater motor use a beefy voltage reducer or better yet install a 12 volt motor its easy. 8 runtz voltage reducer for fuel gauge, early 2 wire types gas gauges may compensate for the 12 volts. 9) radio you cannot voltage it without changing the vibrator to a negative polarity. Im sure there might be a dodad on the market for this purpose. Wiper motors will need a voltage reduction but yours are prolly vacuum. Thats basically about it. Goid luck I love my 12 volts on.my 55 Fargo.

Here you go. Do this with a 383 or 440 minus some of the things this owner did you do not like or want. Your lack of power will be over and at least its not a damn SBC and 700R.

Very interesting way of accommodating this swap. Oh Im aware of the huge 5.125 input shaft bearing retainer size on a A833 OD. Thanx for the update.

Hi Ken, yes no swaps are a simple straight forward endeavor, some are more forgiving than others that is a definite. Now you mention a 230 build and the A833 trans upgrade. What is your plan for this , as you mention a different clutch/bell housing? Look forward to your progress on this....

Thats a very interesting topic. Have you ever created a thread dedicated to your experience with this? Pics would be great too. Now how much performance increase was noticed and at what RPM band? Love this topic but know very little about creating a forced induction setup on our engines..

If the Rusto oil based alkyd enamel primer is fully cured, and I do mean FULLY CURED like weeks months later. I have used 2 k urethane primers and paints over absolutely no issues. I have used Limco Acrylic enamel over Rusto primer on my sons car 2 weeks later with no issues whatsoever. I have used epoxy primers, all types of fillers and even some lacquer based primers over it too. DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK. As in anything chemical there are no 100 percent gaurantees...good luck

Twas not I, however did post a pic and/or videos doing a leak down test..

Engine Blew up after rebuild, what no oil pressure? Could be a spun bearing, might be a fairly straight forward fix and back on the road. Pull the head and oil pan and have a looksy first....

Agree on all 3........ the more in depth Cylinder Leak Down test will confirm all, and with close indication of how much leakage each cylinder may be having...