55 Fargo

That Slant 6 fits like a glove. Its a Mopar 6 cylinder and that's what counts... Hopped Slants can kick a lot of V8 A$$...

Winnipeg Jets 7 Nashville Predators 4

Look out Smashville Catfishes. Yall are gonna be chum here in Winnipeg tonight.

Draw through I take it. If blow through how will you make the carb seal? Im very interested in your idea. Hope to see your thread on this topic soon. These engines really are good candidates for boost.

Here is my setup. Asche built Intake and Tru Split exhaust. 2 Carter BB big truck carbs CFM approx 175 each. Now this is on my tired 228, compression is down and rings are leaking. The Asche setup is built for my eventual 265 build. It runs a tad rich but if on the highway for 20 miles plugs look great. Looks cool and adds a bit of punch. very happy with it only down side is fuel percolating a few times in super hot weather.

Hey all, Starting this thread for discussion and debate on carbs and induction. So let's hear it, all the opinions, experiences likes and dislikes. In running Asche built Carter BB carbs and have also ran these in the past. Stromberg, modern type Carter Webbers, Holleys lets hear your story. Now lets keep it all civil Boys and Girls, no hitting below the belt.

Well get a helper and follow the " bleeding sequence", once bled if pedal is still low the more adjustment is needed usually. Are you using DOT5? Did you bench bleed MC before installing it sure helps?

Yes arcing in the old days immediate great brakes and stopping. If not arced new shoe lining to take some miles to wear in with periodic minor adjustments. Takes longer but does work or did for me a couple of times.

Tru enough on a modern vehicle as pads where master cyl fluid level drops, as calipre pistons are farther out to compensate for wear. Now on lockheed style brakes as shoe lining wears and adjustment corresponds to compensate perhaps wheel cyl pistons do not travel further as the shoes are moved closer to drum contact. Take off your drums and press the brake pedal oh it will be real obvious that the wheel cyl push pins and piston will move a lot more...lol

Well yes less travel in entire brake system. More brake shoe lining ( thickness) the wheel cyls travel a less distance as adjuster are backed off too. Master cylinder pushrod and piston less travel. Again this is tru if brake system are bled and adjusted correctly. Now if bled okay but not adjusted well more pedal travel. With these brake systems good linings adjustments and arc allow a good brake pedal. Why do you ask " grass hopper" ?

Paul the old tyme mixed farm is dead and gone 40 to 50 years ago.

George Asche dual or tri carb intakes. Split exhaust too or buy Langdon headers. Georges are either stock made in dual ir tri or brand new cast tri carb intakes. He makes great linkage sets too

Thats more than likely phosphoric acid based as you mentioned. In reality unless you drive into the sea often a good metal clean up and rust paint will keep it fine for years. Instead of the wire cup brush try 3m stripping disks there great.

POR 15 is over rated in some ways. Its a moisture cure product and it likes rough and rusty surfaces to adhere too. It has to be topcoated or it fades right out. If it delaminates it comes off in sheets. I like either blasting or 3m stripper discs, acid prep, rusty metal primer and then a black topcoat and a hardener added. Zero Rust is a good alternative and much cheaper than POR.

Sorry Minnesota Wild fans just had to say dont mess with Winnipeg ...lol

Kool man and you aint afraida work. Mind you there is not much to these trucks as we both know. They truly are simple and quite light.

Another area of concern and possible attention are these truck's frames. With this added power and torque you might be twisting this old frame a bit. Now i did not go back deep into the thread to see if you looked at this. I do know CCJ installed a wicked LA 360 into his 58 truck and did crack the frame here and there. On the clutch should be able to find a 10 or 11 inch. What have you now? Possibly have it rebuilt to heavy duty specs. Should be plenty of sources in Cal. Even up here i can get clutches custom built.

Thanx for sharing. Keep it coming great stuff......

Think even a 225 slant 6 would be a bit quicker than most flatties.

Awesome. Dont think even a souped up 265 would be as strong as a mild LA 318. Hmmm got me thinkin.....

Can you go to an 11 inch clutch? Whats this truck like with V8 power?

Looks like you have more time and talent, than wanting to spend all that " bloody" money on NOS parts.....lol What you created is most likely better thsn NOS.

This is an old thread that Mikey posted this on In reality going SBC is really not so cheap in it's totality. Buying an engine and trans, this could be cheap if used out of a junk yard or whatever. Then the install. New engine trans mounts, cross members etc. New rad or adding a trans cooler for automatic trans. New trans shifter. Gas pedal and kick down linkage. Headers or appropriate exhaust and complete exhaust system. Belts, hoses and misc wiring etc. New driveshaft and possibly diff. Ebrakes if not going to a donor diff . Diff install and changes. Brake system upgrades. And any other hidden and unexpected items that arise. Not a huge deal for the experienced fabber and welder. Stock engine build might bot be hugely cheaper. But us hugely easier and simpler even if going to a longer 250 engine. You guys do the math....lol

Why?

55mph, 50 psi oil pressure, and running at about 190 degrees? Bury the needle with that Hemi....