Jump to content

55 Fargo

Members
  • Posts

    10,373
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    21

Everything posted by 55 Fargo

  1. Well yes in a perfect world, and under controlled condtions with brand spanking new engines, not 60 year old rebuilt engines. Todays gasoline with modern ethanol enhanced corn juice, cannot be helping matters either, let's say under hood temps were rising, fuel gets really hot, and a lean condition is created, that with super high RPM and major load would be maxing to the outer limits. Or perhaps an issue with a simple thing like a lower rad hose collapsing allowing engine temps to rise, allowing a very hot under hood condition allowing gas to boil and very lean condition. Whatever the initial cause, it appeared once engine RPM was reduced, as well as the load, this engine ran a whole lot better...
  2. Be interesting to discover, what may hjave been the issue causing engine to overheat, run lean etc. I am betting on nothing more, than high engine RPM, very heavy load as a result of travelling against a very strong wind, and subsequent high engine temperature. Lets look at the facts, once you were driving on secondary roadways, and your RPM and load was reduced only by what? 25%, engine ran at a more normal temperature, without issues. These trucks going against a headwind, well over 3000 RPMs, in warmer weather (not sure how warm Wisconsin was that day), you are get real close to all out full max load, if you had a tailwind or no wind, what may have been the results? Have you had a chance to go and drive 70 mph without a wind since, if so what was the result?.....
  3. Hi Wayfarer, have since found some pics of a 55 Dodge with a 318 installed, not very complicated at all. As you mentioned this truck and frame is set-up for a V8, does require any firewall cutting, or off center engine install, I don't think. Is this why the Master Cyl, is installed under the cab, facing backwards from the factory, to avoid any interference witha V8 application? I am not saying there won't be glitches, headaches or issues to resolve, but do not see it being a big nightmare either....
  4. I dunno Merle, sounds maybe clear cut to Me. Gale force winds, you driving at 65-70 mph, a huge load on your engine, 3000+ rpm, =huge load = a lot more heat. I also feel as you do, the fuel, being ethanol enhnaced, winter blend too, starts to boil up, and creates a lean condition, possibly causing more engine heat. You slower drive on the secondary highways, confirmed, your engine preferred a slower pace, with less rpm and less load. I hope this was all it was, sure sounds like it..... PS any chance of bottom rad hose collapsing, or water pump fanpulley belt on that high engine RPM
  5. I believe those pics were taken when the Guy just bought the truck, so not sure what he did later. The 55 and on, have a good slope inwards on the firewall, and they were designed for V8s. Now Harry from Winnipeg, his Fargo is a 49, and he did not cut the firewall to mount in his 318. The 318 I bought is nice and clean at least, and not a quick clean and paint, just in good shape, and needs new paint...
  6. Found these pics on the hamb, Mopar LA 318 engine and 727 trans in a 1955 Dodge truck, don't see anything cut out of the firewall on this job.
  7. The rad and mount, are forward in Canadian trucks to begin with, Harry's 49 Fargo, the 318 is mounted in low, and he did not cut the firewall, so waiting anxiously for some pics. Will post all relevant info as I get it. The 55 frames are different than the earlier trucks, as they did accommodate a V8 in the 1955/56 truck line up, not sure if that makes a difference...
  8. Hi, been a while since I saw it, so waiting on some pics, but He reiterated he did not cut the firewall, that it was a straightforward install, and he had to use an electric fan for the rad. I did buy a 318 this morning, from a distant relative a Mopar Man, go the engine, flywheel torque converter, flex plate, motor mounts,drive shaft and bunch more needed items. I still need to find a trans, but will find everything I need before swapping, this may be a year or so down the road.....
  9. I never thought I would be posting this suggestion. I have the chance to buy a decent 318 and 727 trans. Somebody I know also has this combo in his otherwise stock 1949 Fargo, and it drives well, better than mine, and more power and take off etc. I would be looking to do the same, but would make sure all my suspension is taken care of, and would install disc up front, I have modern self energizing drum brakes on the rear already. I have been pondering different ways to perk up my tired 251 engine, and probably could and still might, if the 318 idea goes out of my head. I have access to a shop and folks with no-how on the install and fabbing for the swap... PS Friends 49 Fargo does not have it's firewall or floor cut for this swap, the 318 does sit low though....
  10. Thanx Jeff, I also have a good product, Seafoams Deep Creep, not sure if that would work. I also have read motorcyle chain wax is a good product to use. I really believe getting these pivots moving and the springs oiled up might help a bunch until I can get it all aprt and fixed properly. Now won't be long and will need a heat deflection plate for my carb.....
  11. Thanx Ed, hoping to try that too. With the pivots tight and/or seized, it gonna ride rough...
  12. Yup there pretty stiff the pivots that is. I figure I may brush on some old oil and ATF, then wipe off the excess, it may be a "band aid" until later this spring I can get all my new parts and everything fixed up. I have 8 springs up front and 6 on each of the rears, the 8 up front seems very heavy duty.........
  13. I did try and get greae into all the shackle pivot bushings, a few did not take any. Removed the zerks, but still did not take much grease. Should the pivots move easily or are they normally quite rigid? I ws also thinking of using old engine oil and atf to brush onto the rusty leaf springs for a temporary quick fix until I can take everything apart, would that help? I can see these suspensions being quite acceptable if in good working order....
  14. Okay did some more investigating, I have 8 leaf springs on each side up front and 6 on each side in the back. The rear pivots for the front springs are seized up and barely moving, tried to grease them again, they won't take grease. That is a real issue that would make a hard ride. Same thing on the rears, very tight pivots. Also the later model 8 1/4 diff spring perches appear to be a little too narrow, so the rear spring eyes are not over the bushing as they should, it is not much, but enough to be a problem, not sure how I missed all of this. So all of the springs and shackle/pivots will need to be addressed. I can see things being a whole lot smoother/softer after this is taken care of. Thanx very much to all for your input and experience...
  15. While agree with some of your statement, if everyone wanted stock, there would be no clip jobs done, and there are plenty for a a lot of reasons. In my case I am okay with stock type set-up, but will do as some others,by making sure all components are in good working condition. I do not believe i need 7 leaf springs up front and 6 in the rear for my usage, I will remove some, to provide for a softer ride and to lower the truck, something like PP has done. I agree with Adams, we do not have to beat our bodies to have an old truck, looking for a happy medium, and more of an enjoyable ride.....
  16. I have a GPS plugged into my lighter at all times, so yes my speed and RPM on tach are accurate. My truck is 12 volts too... BTW Mr Davey, what engine and trans are you running, how do you find your truck on the highway? What speed do you like to cruise at on the highway?
  17. Went out and picked up about 400 lbs of softener salt, that with the 100 lb of other items in the back of the truck, rides smooths out a lot, nut not a cure. I also was cruising 60-65 mph, against a wind, and truck handles it easily. Looking forward to refurbishing these springs and lowering truck a bit....
  18. Hi Jeff, yes having a shop do a thorough job could cost a few buck$. i would be happy taking out a few springs and getting things tighter, plus i want a lower stance with my truck. BTW I would think this is a common issue with our trucks, have done a lot of searching, kinda surprised there aren't more posts sharing what they did, or did not do, regarding this issue.....
  19. Hi Jeff, yes no doubt it would yield good results. So many of these old trucks up here were used rural, on gravel roads, and farm yards and rough usage. The steering is not bad at all, but when you have 7 stiff springs up front, and bushings on the leaf spring hangers sloppy, that will transmit to some good vibration and a rough ride. Stiff springs, banging on sloppy connection points...surprised they ride as well as they do. I do not subscribe to the notion these trucks especially the shorter wheel based like mine were designed even right off the production floor, for speeds of 70-80 mph, oh yes we can make them do it, but they were not intended to do so. I would hate to lose it on some hills or on a busy freeeway going over 70 mph, unless the brakes and front suspension were upgraded. Having said this, I can get away with a lot more in my area, lighter taffic, slower traffic, no huge busy freeways or mountain roadways. I do know, this truck does not ride as well as my 47 Chrysler did, but why should it ride like my old boat did.......LOL
  20. Well time to bring this thread back to life. my truck has decent SUV/truck radial tires 235-75-15s. Io do have new gas shocks on all 4 corners, new tie rod ends, tight king pins, steering box has minimal play, steers very well. I do have 7 leaf springs up front and 6 leaf springs in the rear, the spring eye bushings all have play, not good. This truck is riding like a "mad" shopping car on gravel roads, or over rougher paved surfaces and small potholes, not pleasant, and noisy. I want to remove some springs and repair whats needed in order to soften the ride, and lower the truck a bit. I do not plan on any heavy hauling with her anymore. I have done a bit of cruising at 60-65 mph, so want a better ride, this truck prefers 55-60 than 60-65, but does not seem to bother the engine any.....
  21. Yup, I agree, lets hope bamford does another excursion soon, so guys like me can live vicariously with there pleasure....
  22. I agree, and have been looking forward to Chris and Jerry's next adventure too. I have not heard of any Bamford plans for another excursion as of late. Do not be surprised if this thread isn't moved to Off topic though Bob, this forum board is getting strict on section content as of late. This board is not quite what it used to be, where everything was on the general forum.....just sayin
  23. Couldn't agree more DB, hang in there kid, its a good forum with a lot of good members. There are a few "Crusty Crabs" take em with a grain of salt or put them on the ignore list, it's that simple.....glad the engine is running...
  24. What did Ed say, the oils and grease retain and promote heat not cooling, as what water would do. 3rd degree burns you won't need any of it, you generally won't feel those types of burns right into the muscle tissues. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burn
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use