55 Fargo

Here is a rad made for a 53/54 Dodge cars/trucks, http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1954-Dodge-Plymouth-Chrysler-Aluminum-Radiator-3-Row-Core-Lightweight-MOPAR-/311369369021?fits=Year%3A1954%7CMake%3ADodge%7CModel%3ATruck&hash=item487f0f85bd&vxp=mtr This rad is a little narrower, has a center filler neck,and inlet is on the driver side. I think I can work with this, and it's quite cheap compared to a US rad, Walker rad, or a recore. Anybody ever use one of these in their trucks... This unit/type, might be a better option, the mounting brackets are on the wrong side of the rad though, but can make that work fairly easy too... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-1952-Dodge-Wayfarer-Radiator-Champion-2-Row-Core-All-Aluminum-/271918783915?hash=item3f4f9f5dab

I also have some heavy metal grate like mesh, will cut to size to install in front of the new rad...

Hey there Bobacuda, it appears that the US Rad for my truck, has 2 things not quite right for the Canuck version, the top inlet is only 1 1/2, mine is 1 3/4, the mounting brackets are also on the wrong side of the rad for a Canadian truck, I suppose I could work with that. But at $650, would expect a drop in and go. I am leaning toward a recore, and at least it would be a drop in....

The V8 model for 1955-57 LOOKS correct for my Canadian 25 inch engine. The outlet and inlet appear to be the right size and location. I spoke with a Canadian dealer briefly. If I go this route will call US rad directly. .thanks a

There is no damage to my truck, and MPI is fine with the rad removed according to them. I am waiting to hear back, the qualifier is the rad while old it was in good working order, but it is 60 YO, and they might not replace it, but the 60 YO windshield they would, if it got damaged, all is pending at the moment.

Listen Shane, they most likely will, but I am still on the hook for the $300 deductible, they have not denied the claim, but the 60 YO rad may be a kicker. I can bring in the rad only and provide pics, then a decision can be made. I did mention a total "write off: you had mentioned, the adjuster said for a damaged rad, don't be ridiculous. Same issue would apply to broken glass...but the only source for a new rad is US radiator, or recore, or used, or somt type of aluminum replacement, have you any experience in retrofitting an aluminum rad into your truck?

Yes I agree, this would be ideal, and would be the easiest. I have no problem modifying a rad for mounting, my question is the filler neck, and whether or not I can access it with the hood on. I am tempted to use a modern aluminum cross flow rad from Champion, and it would cost 1/2 of what a new US rad would be. Who has used a Champion aluminum rad in there truck? Do you have pictures of the installed product?

As of today, nothing has been settled on this problem, but a number of things have been explored. -recore is $450-550 -new rad from US Radiator is $640 delivered to my door - used rads have 2 options $150, both are original 60 years old - Champion rad, far from the correct type and size $210 plus USD/CDN exchange, plus shipping = about $320 I had my rad inspected, it was attempted to be repaired, infact the damage was repaired, but the shop said it is leakingfrom other areas now, it wsn't before, but it is again a 60 year old rad. I did make an insurance claim, this is pending, but I would be responsible for the $300 deductible. This is a problem I did not create but have to deal with, as is many other issues that can happen....

No B series and C series are a bit different in size unfortunately,C series is wider, B series is taller. I do understand and have seen the trans coolers on these rads, which is nice. I have at least 2 external type trans coolers in my shop anyways. Not 100% sure which way I am going with this yet....

Hi Jeff, could not find that rad, is it specifically for a 54-56 dodge c series trucks?

I agree Rob, with the rad and it's filler to neck to one side, it is hard to find a donor, unless I found a cross flow rad, that might be close in size and dimension. The hood design just does not allow for a center fill neck, at least it would be a PITA to check and fill with coolant. Champions closest size/type rad would be close to $300 to my door, with shipping and dollar exchange, then the fabbing to fit, etc, the recore would be around the 400-450, and no playing around, so you get the picture. I am waiting on word for a possible good used donor, I even pulled out a 48 Chrysler rad from the shed, but it has holes too.......LOL

I have considered this, but which rad from Champion? This set up requires a filler neck to the left side, have not seen that type for this application on their website, anyone else have any ideas?

yes it is officially appraised, but who knows what they may try and weasel out of. My dealings, although limited in the last number of years, has been great...

yah whatever, write off for a rad, on a truck that is appraised at 5k. My neighbor will have to pay the deductible not me, according to MPI... ps don't dent your fender or bumper, they will write off your truck, and a light fender bender is far more expensive than a rad replacement, so a broken windshield, they gonna write off the truck too, don't think so

Rad shop called today, repair not likely or advisable, as 2 tubes have already been cut off, from a prior repair, I knew about that repair. New core job $400-$450, and possibly as high as $500. I then decided to start an insurance claim, and made the call, will see adjuster next Friday, I did rat out the guy who did this, and hopefully he will pay my $300 deductible. If this claim goes through they most likely will want me to buy a new rad, say from US rad....geesh what friggin pain in the A$$

Why not do a ring and valve job, and stop the oil burning? Those snake oil treatments are dubious at best. 20 W 60, are you running this engine in ambient temps over 100f, how is the oil pressure? If you have good oil pressure once this engine is warmed up, then maybe those rings will seat in and this engine will stop smoking, after running it for several 100 miles, even that would be lucky.....good luck anyway...

This ain't LA Hankster, this is a very rural small town atmosphere, where everybody knows everyone, so you step on someones toes, there are many feet. I know the perpetrator, he is generally a very nice fellow, so will give him a chance to come up with something. I know how to handle things the tough way if need be, as I am a city boy, transplanted into the country.....

Yes you are correct, will find out tomorrow. I may opt for a repair for now, as my eventual 318 swap, I will need to possibly change the bottom rad hose outlet, and would recore all at once....money money money......LOL

Hey all, a few weeks back a Man who lives in my area, shot a bunch of rocks at my blessed 55 Fargo, with his flatdeck trailer with a Kubota tractor on it. This resulted in rocks hitting my hood, bumper, grille bars and 1 right into my rad, and this resulted ina tube rupture. I had no choice but to **** down my truck, and wait for a friend to hepl me tow it home, and that was not a pleasant experience either. I have discussed this with the suspect, as I know him, he feels badly, but not totally responsible, and has not offered to pay for anything yet. Tonight I had time to pull the rad, here are the pics. I have been really busy lately, and also bought an off topic Ram 1500 crew cab 4X4 with a 5.7 L Hemi, this thing is wickedly fast and powerful, and nit that hard on fuel, if you take it easy.... Pics f the rad damage, not sure this can be isolated and repaired, or if I am looking at a complete re-core...

Major adjustment screw on the bottom of distributor?

The cheap gas is not helping matters, thats a for sure, but not likely the cause. fast high speed RPM and load,= more load , more heat , higher engine temps, and this requires a rad and cooling system in very clean and effiicent condition.I would look at the rad on this one, as well as the entire cooling system, water pump, lower rad hose not collapsing at higher engine RPM. Late ignition timig, and a stuck heaat riser can cause higher engine temps at speed too.When you then come to a stop and some idling and low speeds = heat has to go somewhere, your engine could have some cooling system restrictions, less than 100% rad efficiency, no fan/rad shroud, heat will build until you are driving a bit again and air is moving through the rad, and waterpump is moving the coolant a little better. I always firmly believe these old engines need to have there core plugs and water tube removed and get the internal water passages as clean as possible. In ohio, you could run a higher ratio of water to anti-freeze for summer, water is a better heat transfer liquid than higher concentrations of glycol. The antifreeze does provide a higher boiling point than water though. Good Luck, get the rad and cooling system good and clean and it will run all day on the hghway at 170-180 unless really pushed and it is very hot outside...

On these engines, unless a fairly fresh rebuild the following is a good plan of action for reviving the cooling systems. -clean rad, replace if flow is less than optimum, or if core is beyond recall. -pull water distribution tube and clean out and make sure tube is in good shape - pull frost plugs on the block and clean out, flush block well -waterpump in good working order -new t/stat -correct engine timing A leaking head gasket can also create more heat allowing exhaust gases to enter the cooling system, a stuck heat riser, may also contribute to higher engine temps on warm days under higher load operations..... read this, http://p15-d24.com/topic/8279-engine-runnin-hot-again/?hl=%2Bwater+%2Bdistribution+%2Btube#entry70468

Your idle will pickup speed with timing advance. Set your timing then idle speed or are you thinking about idle mixture for highest vacuum? I just set my timing, then did idle mixture for max vacuum and set speed, all is very good...

Well they are cheaper at $208 USD, they are not an exact fit, and I do need the filler neck on one side. Factor in shipping and exchange, not much cheaper after that. US Rad, has exact quality replacement rads, but at $440 plus shipping and exchange. I am going for the recore, quality US made brass cores...thanx for the idea Ed

Had a talk with the Guy, who's truck and trailer, sprayed me with rocks, and 1 rock punctured my rad, and almost dead center of all places. He stated he feels badly about this, but does not feel fully responsible, he admitted he was driving at about 50 mph or so, on a gravel road coming toward me, shooting rocks. he did not offer to pay for it, asked me what I would like, that irritated me, I am the type, who would offer to either pay for it, or at least offer to pay for half. Such as life, will not make an insurance claim, my deductible is $300, and am not taking my truck to some shop, where the wrong hands can be on it. I will be pulling the rad, it will be $350-$400 to recore..............just was minding my own business, and this is what I get