55 Fargo

Hi all, was having a nice long cruise tonight in the 47, stopped and showed a friend the car. When I went to start the engine to leave, it was cranking real slow and wouldn't start, tried a few more times, all of a sudden I see smoke coming from under the hood, I immediately open the hood, I saw the choke wire smoldering where it connects to the choke switch. I have a master switch on the battery, I immediately shut it down. I removed the choke wire from the starter connection circuit, the engine fired right up like nothing, this choke was obviously not working right either, as it wasn't firing before I removed the wire, it started just like that after it was removed. Thank God it wasn't worse, or anything too serious, but this wire connection is darn cles to the carb, someone is looking out for me afterall.............Fred PS not sure what I may do to fix this, maybe convert to manual choke or make up a new wire for the electric choke

Hi all, had the 47 out today on the Interstate type hwy, this one was Hwy 59, it's a 2 lane going each way runs from Grand Beach to Winnipeg Manitoba, it is very busy with commuters this time of day 4:00 PM. I was able to cruise at 55 mph, as I was travelling southbound traffic was fairly light in thid direction. I am convinced i would not want to drive on a busy freeway with traffic flowing at 75 mph. TYhe car ran great, steering is a bit sloppy, but not too bad, it rides the bumps well, infact better over railway tracks than my modern vehicles. It is noisy inside, as there is no interior except seats and carpets, and it was very windy out side today..................PS it was a blast to dirve this today, it is 52 and sunny, one driver saw my car, and I could see him going wow, not sure why cuz she painted yet

Here is a pic of the homemade sill mats. They are only cut to size, and not secured yet, not sure exactly how I am going to do this, maybe I should eliminate the aluminum strips, or paint them or something, any suggestions, on this and how to fasten them..........Thanx Fred

I also would like to know what I could use to clean up the outer aluminum strips on the outer edge of the sill mats. Mine are beat up, can they be acid dipped, or how can I get them to clean up and shine...............Fred

Robin, how did you install your rubber matting, would you be able to provide a picture of it.............Fred

Thanx Guys, decided to go with the Home Depot Style Rubber Floor mat, looks just like the pics Robin sent. I do not think it is necessary to laminate it over sheemtal before installation, although that might be better. Norm, I would like to make aluminum door sill plates at some point in the future............Fred

Hi yall, I have this question before, and would like to know what some of you have done for sill mats and how you have made them. I am not currently in a position to buy new or used ones at the prices they fetch. My original ones are crap, the metal is rusted out, only about one of them is anything halfway decent. I just want to know what would be the best way to make up some low budget mats, and how to install them................Thanx Fred

I think someone should revive the Rambler, now that was a name for the a car for the common man...........Fred PS, when I was a kid in grade school, one of my little buddies Dad had a 1963 Studebaker, he called it a Stupidbaker, we were in grade 1 or grade 2 at the time

Thanx Allan, on the floors, do I use flexfoil over the sound deadener (eaveguard), then I can put the carpet back over it,right?

Thanx Bob, I'm trying, but with a shoestring budget, you can't too extravagant. One old guy, told me today that he thought the car looked great, it does look good outside form 20 feet. As far as the carpet is concerned I wanted to use short loop, I did not put down underlay, was thinking of using reflective bubble foil wrap, lay it down on the floor and up the firewall and on the ceiling.................Fred

Hi all, went to the Home Depoit and bought some cheap grey carpet and installed it into the 47, cleans up the floor and quiets things down a bit, this is just temporary unitl I get the whole interior done, someday way down the road, cuz all the body and paint will be done first. I still need to make sill mats, I also need to fit the carpet in a little better. I was thinking of cutting an access to the Master Cyl door, but that might end up looking lousy and being a spot where the carpet freys and sticks to the heel of your shoes......................Fred ps pleas excuse my crappy lookin seats, the interior is not done yet

Robert, much to the horrors of some of us, I am going to try this first, will pull the wheel cyls, and take them into an old time brake shop in Winnipeg, I trust the owner , he will be straight with me. He did my fronts and no problem, I had someone else do the rears, and they have leaks. This shop has been around since the 1940s, they do everything but sleeving..........Fred

You know that is real BS if they can get away with selling such crap, sorry for the rant. Even though I have rebuilt original wheel cyls and MC, and the rears have slight leaks, I have a peadl that is high, it only goes down about an inch or so from the top.I would not even consider replacing with the horse padooky you can buy now, infact I may rehone these rear wheel cyls and give em another try. I bled my brakes a lot when I installed everything, I did use dot 5 silicone, and so far do not regret it. I then adjusted the brakes shoes by ear, or was that by hand, they aren't too bad, as the wear on the shoes is fairly even. These brakes need to be bled of course, to eliminate all air, but they need to be adjust correctly to get a nice high pedal. But if the wheel cyls cannot push out the shoes far enough, whats the use. It is a shame there are so many crap suppliers of these parts out there...........Fred

Buying new wheel cly with fresh rubber in them makes more sense to me, nos is good for some things(sheetmetal)however for electric stuff(coils) and the like I rather have it new. Rodney, when your right , your right..........Fred

I think it was $50.00 each, but if the raybestos ones are $50.00 each, the off shore stuff is about 30 to 40, the resleeved cyls should be superior to all of the others. What about Dorman brand, are they USA made, they are $30 for the rears and $18 for the fronts from Rock Auto, if they are of decent quality, that is a good deal..........Fred

Thanx Ed, I think I have contacted this outfit in the past, I think it is $50.00 to have the wheel cyls sleeved, but well worth it I think......Fred

Thanx for the thuimbs up Rodney, my goal is to clean up this area and give it some protection. I of ten see classic cars with nice paint, chrome, etc, but rusty dirty in the wheel wells and underneath. I am paranoid about it getting rusted out and falling apart, I won't drive it much in rain storms either, as I live on a gravel road, and rainy days means very dirty car, as you dirve to the highway about 3 miles..........fred

Ed, what is the name of the outfit in the Twin Cities that resleeves cyls. I am really thinking of having mine sleeved. I wonder what may be the turn around time for this, shipping etc.......Fred

Hi, I have heard of the wheel cyls that push the shoes out too much where the drums won't go back on, but this a new one. I think if you get the Raybestos, made inthe US or get your wheel cyls sleeved m,ight even be a better bet, if possible. I would get mine resleeved in a heart beat, if I could get it done locally......Fred

Hi, I am in Canada, so we get taxed when the goods arrive. Raybestos and Dorman are manufactured and still sold in the USA, in fact Rock Auto has them the Ryas, are $48.79 for the rears, the Dormans are $30.79 for the rears, good prices, should be good products............Fred

Hi all, not sure what I might be doing for my replacement rear wheel cyls. Ideally I would like to have my old ones sleeved, but they don't do it here yet, and I do not feel like shipping mine across the continent to have it done. I might be able to buy a pair of NOS rear wheel cyls, but I am not sure yet if I can still get them. One parts place out here deals in Reybestos, but they are $85.00 each for the rears, fronts are $40 a pop, I am considering these. Kanters are $48.00 each for rears, all 6 for the car are $190, plus shipping of course and tax. So any suggestions/ideas out there,I am going to change these out pronto, as there are slow leaks in the rear whell cyls on my 47 Chrysler................Thanx Fred

Hi all, spent a good chunk of today, cleaning, prepping, and got on a first coat of Black Tremclad paint on the inner wheel wells of my front left side. I will paint on another coat and get all the missed spots tomorrow, this should keep it in good shape and it looks much nicer like this than rust and dirt, will be doing the other side as soon as this side is finished, sure wished I was installing disc brakes up front though.................Fred

Hi all, just came in from the garadge. I inspected all the brakes, readjusted them etc, all front wheel cyls nice and dry when you pull back the boots. On the rear whell cyls, on the left side, this wheel cyl shows no evidence of leaking in the drum or anything, but when you pull back the dust boots the evidence is there, a slight amount of brake fluid each side. Now I have driven my car quite a bit lately, so this leak must be slow, and/or intermittent. However this is not acceptable, and I am going to take Bob Amos advice and replace both rear whell cyls, not going to replace up front, as they are very dry and no leaks. I may go with a set of NOS, with new rubber inside, as s a friend here has a pair for sale, or may order new from Kanters, just don't want the problem with the pins, as some do with the newer style wheel cyls...........Fred

Hi all, my engine can be the same, rebuilt carb, fuel pump is working well, but if she sits overnight or longer, she takes a bit to start. I do have an autochoke, it does work, I usually pump the gas once or twice and hold it down a 1/4 of the way, sometimes she needs a 3 to 4 tries then fires right up. Once started she is good all day, and sometimes longer, infact once started, and you shut her off, just one hit on the starter button and away she goes. So I do have the B&B carb, does this also sound like something is wrong with my fuel system. We do not have all ethanol belned gas in our area yet, so hopefully that helps, but I am sure this stuff is coming soon..........Fred

Hi all, I was thinking of installing seatbelts in my 47 Chrysler Coupe. I would of course install 3 in the back, and probably just 2 up front. Now because the front split bench seats do not lock, can I still use 3 point shoulder harness type belts, or do I have to go with lap belts only. I am not crazy about installing seat belts, but do need them in the back seat for my 2 youing kids, one is still in a car seat she is 2yo. Any suggestions, was thinking of going to a pick and pull autowrecker and finding seat belts. Should I mount them right through the floors, what have some of you done with is idea? Thanx Fred