55 Fargo

Okay Tim, I will continue using it. Don't forget though, I am not sandblasitng this inner area, I am only using discs, and wirebrush, sanding etc, so it does not come of as clean as sandblasintg. I have a lot of pitting where the fender bolts to the body, not all of it, but about a 1/3. So I am trying to get these areas de-rusted as much as possible, the rusty metal primer will be applied on this area with a roller, hopefully it will fill in the pit areas. This will be followed by Black tremclad paint mixed with hardener, or I will undercoat with a Shutz gun..........Fred ps I spilt this stuff on my sef a bit, did not feel it, at least not on my hands, but I also used to spill the Phos Acid on my hands and barely felt it too, maybe I am desensitzed.......LOL

Pat I can tell if there is a slight amount of rust on almost bare metal it seems to do it's job. I am currently trying it on a large rusty C clamp, it is lightly surface rusted, it seems to be doing something on this piece after about 3 applications, but nothing like the picture of the rusty wrench on the Autobodystore.com website. The trouble with my area I am working on the car is this, the surface rust is on top of the paint and prmer, when you sand off the rust, the paint and rpimer is under it. I am going to clean up this area a bit more, either hit it with the Picklex 20 or Phos Acid, then Primer with Tremclad red oxide rusty metal primer, before I topcoat everything under there................Fred

Hi all, recently bought a 1 pint spray bottle of Picklex 20 Rust Convertor for $37.00 plus tax, it is highly recommended by the Autobodystore.com website. It is a non-toxic bio friendly 1 step metal rust prep, made in Huntsville Alabama. I was tring it on the inner body portion behind the rear fenders, I had previuosly used a desic sander, and 3M roloc discs to clean up the area, all the heavy surface rust was removed. I sprayed on this prodcut, and wiped it off after a few minutes as directed, the metal looked like it had a coating on it, but was still the same color, it did better on super shiny bare steel, but if I had my metal all to super shiny bare steel, I would not need this highly espoused product. Well I am not impressed, my regular Phosphoric Acid products like Sems Rust Mort, work a lot better, they turn the ligtly rusted steel to grey or black, this stuff has done diddly squat. Have any of you guys ued this product, is it posssible I am not using it correctly?......................Thanx Fred

Happy Veterans Day you guys, glad you made it home from the wars and active service, and your on this forum sharing your experience and knowledge with the rest of us............Fred

I knows, whats youse, means, OUCH that hurts like a bugger. I have done this a time or 2 in my 47 Chrysler Club Coupe, it has the same mounts as your P15. Will try your rubber foam idea sometime..........

Hi all, pulled left rear fender today, I had loosened the bolts a month or so back, only twisted off the front bottom bolt, the meatl holding the square nut was rotten and it twisted off, but I knew this going in. I chased the remainder of the bolt holes. I have to weld or bond in a metal patch, no big deal. I was amazed to find some shiny black paint here and there under what was left of the welting. But I do need to clean-up all the surface rust, then treat with acid, then it will get a couple of coats or rusty metal primer, then will be topcoated with enamel paint. Sandblasting is not an option, and the wire brush attachment on grinder seems to polish up the rust, it also make sparks. I am not dropping my gas tank, so my filler neck is expeosed right now while I do this work. Any suggestions, on what to use to strip and rust but this metal before acid prepping? I may send the fender for sanblasting, of it's inner side, and mounting edges. I have my car off the road for the season now, and we just got snow on the ground a couple of days ago, so I am not driving it anywhere right now. Just hunting for ideas, on the derusting processs..........Fred

The Brake kits, are on sale again for the Christmas season. See the earlier thread he posted.......

Right on Normspeed, looks like life in NM is a hoot after all, hey BTW wheres Marilyn...........

Watched Obamas speech live from Chicago last night, very intelligent, articulate man. I hope he is the answer for America,will be interesting in the coming days,weeks and months on how he runs the country and plans to tackle some very challenging problems facing America at this time. So from Canada, congrats Mr Obama, on your Presidential Victory...........GOD BLESS AMERICA

A few days late, but here is a pic of my 2 Halloween goblins..........Fred

Regular Gasoline in the Winnipeg Canada area, 96.9 per litre, 96.9 X 3.83 = $3.71 per US gallon, minus the USA/Canada doallr difference= $3.15 US per gallon for regular gas. Not bad for Canada, but certainly not that great........Fred

Tim, my Dad is diabetic, has had his eyes operated on, his vision is pretty darn good. That could be your issue the diabetes effect on your eyes, see your Physician ASAP..........Fred

Sorry to hear about this Tim, is there anything that can be done medically, would "Lazer Treatments" work for this. Mind you, Lazer surgery is not cheap, I started needing reading glasses about 3 years ago, this can be a real PITA, but what can you do, could be worse, cataracts/glaucoma, or blindness. Would you really consider a Maaco paint job, I hear great things from some, and horror stories from others, guess it depends on the individual franchise owner. I am also thinking of getting the Maaco splash on my 47, so far 2 panels complete, one rear fender, and the trunklid, the hood, needs next to nothing, the front fenders and doors need attention, the roof, will require a lot of smoothing, and the drivers door will be 50%, meaning it will be skim coated about 50% with filler, not deep, just coated. At least there is no rust repairs to be done......................Fred

Now Jon, your supposed to use the "undercoating for the underside of the car, not as body filler to hide "imperfections...................LOL:D

Tim, We haven't seen any "Trick or Treaters" and my place in about 3 years, we are in the country also, 5 miles from the nearest town, of about 10000 souls and 18 miles from a 750000 city. We took our 2 kids to the nearest town, only need to go down 1 long bay in a residential area , to get the 2 little ones loaded up with candy. It was a great night for Halloween, about 40 , yesterday it was 64 degrees here, that is warm for us northerners this time of the year. So Happy Halloween to you all................Fred

Glad to see you are making progress Ed, hope it comes together as you would like...........Fred

Yes I would agree with the above statement, these fenders flex fairly easy. I removed mine, cleaned prepped welded cracks, a few tiny holes, then painted the undersides, re-installed them. I have since done filler work on them, I need to apply a lillte more filler, then hit with primer surfacer, then block. They are pretty straight now. I am not removing them for paint, I have painted the inner body and fenders black, and they shall remain this color..............Fred

Looks good Phil, maybe go to Princess Auto and get the 2000 lb engine stand...........Fred

Hi Bingster. I also have almost 3 miles to gravel, It has been my experience that the gravel and dust do not really hit the frame a lot, or the floor, it's the wheel wells, along the rocker areas, and the frame and floor mounts that get the gravel hitting and sticking when it's wet. Do they dust control your entire road, at my place they only do the frontages of the yard sites where people live, so in my case there is only about 10 houses down the 3 miles, maybe 1/4 of the 3 miles gets dust control, so the rest does not, and it is a real dust bowl a lot of the time. I see no problem in using rubberized undercoatney in the wheel wells, and any areas that get hit with the gravel and dust. Prep metal Primer, use a quality undercoat, and then paint over this with your highquality paint you have mentioned...............Fred

Don, we are even known to catch a few Zees up here once in awhile. Zed Zed Top, say that backwards a few times.

We just say it "Zeplin", and at 3:00 AM, while listening to their music, after a hard night of partying, who can hardly talk, let alone spell. Well maybe that was me 25 years ago.........Fred

I mounted mine almost to the top of the rear inner fender, made a bracket, installed and ran the hose to tank, works great and is out of sight.

Hi all, I was wondering, do they pronounce sedan in parts of the South as see dan, I have heard this in some movies, "White Lightning" being noteworthy, they say the word see dan for sedan quite a bit, I have only heard in the North seh dan, kinda like, "see dan", sorta like pole leese for police. In Canada the letter Z is pronounced zed, and not zee, as in the USA, the British instilled this into Canadaian colonization, although lot of people here use zee, including my kids. We had cars such as the Z28 pronounced zed 28, or the Camaro Iroc zed, instead of Iroc zee. Or here is another linquistic difference, we in Canada pronounce the Toyota Celica, as a toyota celeeka, where in the USA, it was pronounced Toyota cel licka, not sure how that one came about. Just thinking of these things while painting the kitchen walls, and ruinning to the garage and applying body filler on the rear fender of the 47, nothing like a multi task day.........all the best

How about wetsanding the surface and cutting the paint a little more, should be very thin like 1% milk, but thicker than water and roll on another coat or 2. How many coats of satin did it take to cover, if you have reduced the paint with mineral sprits by say up to,25 to 40 %, you should not have full coverage by about 4 to 5 coats? Is it possible for you to get ahold of a cheap HVLP spraygun, then mix this paint witht his ratio 8-4-1 with enamel reducer, maybe add in a little hardner, that mix sprays real nice, you would only need 2 to 3 coats, wet-on wet. This would give you the look you are trying to achieve, you can also get the look you want with the roller, but the paint needs to be very thin, and wetsanded every 2nd coat, you could then leave the final coat unsanded, if you get your intended results. I don't see why you would have a problem wetsandig all coats before you do the final coat, then that final coat could be left untouched. Why don't youtry this on one panel, wetsand with 600 to1000, use lots of water, keep the paper wet, let dry, wipe with mneral spirits, tack rag it and roll on another coat of very thinned paint, and see ahat happens. Hope this helps................Fred ps how about trying a peanl or test piece with unthinned paint, say 2 coats, see how it looks, probably will not work as the paint will be thick though