55 Fargo

Hey man, it's your ride , and you can do anything you want to it and be accepted on this forum/brotherhood of Old Mopars. Sounds like it will be a nice set-up, keep us posted as things progress, all the best in the transition.........Fred

Bobby, you same set-up would use more power here in winter, with 4 to 5 months of winter, and 2 of those months average around 0, you would no doubt burn more here. We have some of the cheapest electricity here in North America,arund 6 cents per Kwh, infact we supply a lot of power into the USA, we have several huge Hydro Dams here. My house is 2X6 construction, R20 walls, R40 attic, R20 basement walls, triple pane windows etc, my 24 X36 garage is insulated the same way. The house is a raised bungalow (Bi-Level) 1400 square feet on both levels, stucco walls etc, we use stucco here more than siding, much like the USA southwest, not sure why, as we are definately up north. There are houses up her that are built to the R 2000 factor that burn way less power than mine, even though the house is larger. It is quite common to pay $200 a month here for gas, and a up to a $100 for electricity, for a 1400 square foot home with a family of 4. I also have a well, septic filed, so I do not have to pay water utilties, then there is the dang phone lines, internet, satelite TV, oh plus 3 cell phones, good thing my wife works for Ma Bell............Fred

We also have natural gas here, infact most people in Southern Manitoba use gas for heat, and hot water, there is also a lot of geo-thermal. I think our utility bill for everything in the whole house , garage yard, and I mean everything is around $2500 for the entire year, this means heating the house and garage when it's -30 at times in winter, winter is also 4 to 5 months long it seems...........Fred

Here in the land of Hydro electric dams in Manitoba, we pay around 6 cnets per Kwh, all ofmy utilites for my 1400 square ft home, triple car electric heated garage is is $210 per month, this includes all as we have no natural gas to our house. I also heat the garage, the dryer, the hot water tank,all lights, central air, furnace. It is very cold here in winter, and quite hot in summer, so this is still a good deal for us in Manitoba........Fred

Can this hole be repaired, welded etc????

Bill, 95 psi is not that bad, plus you have an even reading on all cyls. The most likely reason for the lower than 100 to 115 is probably wear, valve seal, rings a little warn etc. Is this engine rebuilt, or does she have some experience. Possibly this engine needs some miles on her again, and then maybe that reading may bump up a bit, who knows. The Chrysler service manual calls for 100 on all cyls, you are only 5 off, how is the oil pressure, vaccuum, does this engine burn oil..........Fred

Hey now thats a good price, how about gettin me some when you see them next time...........Fred

Hi all, anyone interested in ordering a set of tail light reflector lenses for your Bezels. They are custom made, the 7/8 inch size, that are held in place with a backing this type you install from inside the light bezel. The price is around $10.95 US includes shipping to anywhere in the Continental USA and Canada. A fellow 40s Mopar friend is thinking of making a batch soon, but wants to know if there is any interest first. You can PM me or email.................Fred

Hi Jon, have to agree with you, I think your car looks great, how much prep did you let Maaco do, I am thinking of letting them do the final sanding, maybe some filler work and paint. We have 3 Maacos here in the Winnipeg area.......Fred

Hi Norm, I realize a lot of collector cars that are driven are usally #3, even when they have new paint. engines interiors etc. I just want mine driver quality, as you have mentioned, mine will eventually get close to finished, new paint interior, chrome etc, will have to patient with steady, slow progress.............Fred

Hi all, I am constantly faced with budget concerns with the 47, as well I have young children, home , mrtgage, driver cars etc, just like a lot of you guys. I have done this to date, 95 % of mechanical is complete and in good order, at least I think. The interior neeeds complete reupholstering, the bumpers need to be re-chromed. The body work is at this stage, all metal welded into floors/rockers etc, car was stripped and primered, I am continuing on with panel alignment, etc. So all dent removal, filler work, sanding, prepping and painting needs to be completed. I am trying to do this, but am not an expirenced body man, so we shall see how far I can go with it, so far not bad. Now my question is this, what have some of you done, if money was an issue, did you complete things in stages, did you wait and have things done every few years, have some of you driven your cars rough for a while, just lookin for ideas. I like working on the car, but sometimes, without equipment, experience, and quality parts, it gets frustrating....................Fred PS this car is too rough to be show quality, just hope to make it a nice driver

Ed, sorry to hear of this bad news, and your car has been damaged. Glad to hear your okay, keep us posted on what happens to your car...........Fred

Hi Guys, thanx for the replies, last night after working a 12.5 hour shift then cutting an acre of grass I was ready to try and work on this. I loosened the fender bolts, the rad cradle bolts, and went to work. The doors are aliigned fine now, the fenders are pretty darn good, the gaps along both fron door edges are nice and close now. Next the hood, then some more tweaking, and it should be okay. Thanx for having patience on this one you guys, sometimes uncharted territory ain't much fun. My well meaning friend who helped me line things up, well put it this way, I had to undo some of this to get things to fit a lot better.........Fred

Hi all, well been working on the front clip, trying to line up the hood, the fenders etc. So far my progress sucks, I am no body man, and it is beginning to show, my inexperience is now a real handicap. I have the doors respectable, the drivers side fender gap along the door is very good, the gap along the hood and fender is okay, but the fnder is higher than the edge of the hood on the drivers side, in the mddle, not all the way along. The right side fender gap along the front of the door, is now ay too wide, a friend of mine and I used the body jack under the rad saddle with the 2 bolts loosened to push the fron clip toward the drivers side, now my right side is out. The gap along the right side along the top of the fender is not bad. I need to get the right side fender pushed back toward the door, about 3/8 to 1/2 an inch, that would close the gap at the front edge of the door. The hood would need tweaking again. If you look down the center of the hood from the front of the car you can see the front clip going crooked off center. I have read all the shop manual stuff, and have tried things that some of you guys have mentioned, not sure what to do next. I gotta get this sheet metal straightened up someway. Any advice and/or expereince welcomed.. Thanx Fred PS this is starting to be a consuming thing in my life, I have trouble focusing on other things, when I cannot solve a problem with this car, another lesson that I should have started with a better specimen. Addendum Guys go easy on me LOL

Thanx, some of this is applicable, and some is not, as the 1946 to 1948 Chryslers are a bit different.....Thanx again

Hi all, today I brought the 47 to a friends truck shop, he used to be a bodyman in the past. Well we were able to suck in the fenders on the sides along the front doors, then we lined up the hood, good gap at the cowl, adjsuted the height of the hood, to the cowl, the hood lines up pretty good to the front also. But along the tops of each fender, the fender is high in the center on both sides, the gap is fine, but the fendr is a higher than the hood a bit. We tried a few things, I tried some more tonight, not much different. I am beginning to think, this maybe as good as it gets, and it ain't that great. Are these cars know to have prro panel fit in the front clips. Like I mentioned the gaps are finer, it's just each fenr is high olong the hood in the center of the fender along each catwalk. This is my own greenhorned fault, I started with a car that was ruff, and was probably in a collision of 2, not sure what to try next, spent 6 hours at my friends place today, my wife was not impressed, the brightside, the car is running and driving well...............Fred ps how do yall have the front clips fittin on your cars, do some of you share my problem with this one

I knew there were others out there like me, with a dilemna of the female type, one reason my car does not progress to rapidly...........

Maybe a "Venison Riot", there also called "Jumpers", here in the Heartland. Aguy I work with at the Pen, has a nice 1955 Chev 2 dr, he was bringing it to work a couple of falls ago, he hit 2 deer on this one Deer infested Highway Hwy 67, the entire rear section was bashed in, he had only stock brakes, the brakes locked up on a dew misted hwy and the car went sideways into the Deer. We have so many Deer here, there should be a 2 bag limit each season, sometimes there is, but most times not............Fred

Up here where I live in Rural Manitoba, just 18 miles north a of a medium sized city Winnipeg, there are 100s of Deer. In spring I have seen as many as 50 in a bunch, there are so many it's unbelievable, I have close calls with Deer a few times each year, hit one 2 years ago with one of the daily dirvers. Charlie, I will buy a kit at some point, just not in the $ cards right now..........Fred

Hi all, to the 47 out tonight at dusk for a spin down the road to the highway:) . I have this rattle in the passenger window, so I am driving about 35 to 40 mph, my hand on the passenger side window, seeing what the rattle was all about, then all of a sudden:eek: there was a Deer running across the road, I hit the brakes, the car slowed right down quick like;) , the deer ran into the field:D . Had I been going 50 to 60 mph, I may have hit the deer, this is another reason I do not like night driving around here this time of year, too many dang Deer. The car ran great in the cooler dryer air, went for about a quick 10 mile spin. Tomorrow morning heading to a friends truck shop to try and line up the hood and front fenders, now that the doors:rolleyes: are pretty good..........Fred

This primer has been used by Tim and others, myself included. Its a base primer, like an epoxy primer, you the do your filler, either lacquer based primer surfacer, or what I have been using 2 k urethane high build primer/surfacer. Its the primer surfacer you block to perfection before laying on the topcoats. I have found the rusty metal primer, does sand okay, just not like a nice primer/surfacer. It has excellent adhesion properties, excellent corrosion resiatnce, all of what 2 k epoxy primer is used and known for. Hope that helps............Fred

I was getting more P-offed with each word you wrote. What kind a "bag of hammers" idiot did this. I woulda be just like you,maybe would have gave him a "tune-up" and I don't mean new spark plugs. I had someone recently tell me they would throw a brick through my 47s window, my BPs went up so high, my adrenaline was just a racin. I can relate to your pain, hope you find some parts, I will ask up here if you need me to............Fred

Here in the Heartland Of Canada, the gas prices are $1.47 per litre, 3.85 litres per US gallon, minus the 6 cents on the lower Canuck Buck, you have 5.31 US per US gallon for Gasoline in the Winnipeg area.............Fred ps this absolute BS, the oil companies are looking for anything to raise the price of fuel, and I do understand "supply and demand", I do not underunderstand "Demand all you can", as what has been going on lately

Hi Robert I tend to agree, will probably line evryuthing up now as best as possible. This door will get better with new hinge pins. Does anyone know which hinge pins are need for our Mopars?