55 Fargo

Okay, try Roberts, Andy Bernbaum, they used to have them, or Epay. I am not sure, if NAPA , Rock Auto have the housings too. You can use a later model 4 terminal type housing too, just use the 3 terminals that you require. Or do some searching around and find a NOS or used item.....Fred

Here you go, NAPA, there are better prices elsewhere if you do not want to deal with NAPA, Rock Auto also has them. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHKS6482_0182380975

Hey all, always finding more things to repair, looks like these motor mounts have seen there service life. Not sure why I did not replace them a long time ago, will order some and install under the car, 1 side ata time.....

Here you go, this was after I washed her a bit... The picture Summer , she is in base primer

Randy, I have a Sears Craftsman 33 Gallon compressor, with a 2 hp motor, much like Joe Flanagans, I used line filters, just cheap ones, a gravity feed 1.4 mm tipped knock-off HVLP spray gun. The compressor was $300, but you may be able to borrow one, the paint gun was $30, the moisture trap filters about $30. The paint was mixed 8-4-1 that is 8 parts paint, 4 parts reducer, 1 part hardener, this is as per Tim Adams suggestion. The paint was $40.00, the reducer $10.00, the hardener $25.00, and tape and masking paper, lacquer thinner for clean-up. The fillers, glaze, primers (used a 2 kurethane high build primer over filler work, the base primer over bare metal was Rusty metal primer, cut with reducer (as per Tim Adams recipe), all worked well with no compatibility issues. Hope this answers your ????..................Fred

Here you go Bob, the bumpers are bad, and the front hood lip trim needs to be chromed, once the bumpers are chromed, stainless polished, and new tires, she will be sweeter. This car was a real pile of crap, I am a real novice, so she is okay as an old driver.....

Thanx Bob, it's a 25 footer paint job

Bob, let us know what happened here, did you try and isolate the cylinder, or is the noise something else hopefully..........Fred

Hi all, by Mid May, it willbe 1 year since I painted my 47. Now I know this is no stellar paint job, maybe Maaco quality, minus the runs, and bit of dust. But this was $40.00 a gallon high gloss Industrial alkyd enamel mixed with Medium speed Dupont reducer, and generic high gloss hardener, designed for acrlyic enamels. I learned this recipe from Tim Adams, it worked very well, the problems with the paint, runs, peel dirt etc, were my fault, and my cheapo harbourfreight type equipment. I have not cut and polished this paint, it is as I sprayed it, and just washed about 6 times. This paint shines like crazy, as much as BC/CC, maybe not the clarity, or depth, again the inexperience caused that, my body prep is marginal.......Fred the pic was taken 15 minutes ago, it is about 55 here today

From Crouse Automotive Mecahnics Vol 4, about 1962. Connecting-Rod Noisesusually have a light pounding or knocking characteristics. Most noticeable when engine is floating, not accelerating, or decelerating. The sound is more noticieable, at medium speed as the acelerator is eased off. To locate conecting rod noise, short out spark plugs one at a time. A worn bearing,or crankpin, misaligned connecting rod,or excessive bearing clearance, can all make connecting rod noise. So can inadequate oil, which is not your problem.........

Bob, I would diagnose the engine in the manner Tim, has suggseted, to determine if it is infact a bad rod knock. Did your Son isolate each cyl by pulling 1 spark plug wire at a time. Perhaps this is another noise, maybe fuel pump, or something else..........Fred

Just snapped off these 2 pics of the oil pan on car. This is to illustrate where and how it's appearing to be leakingoil.....

Go toa tractor and farm implement dealer, and buy a universal set. Or you can buy ready cut sets from Roberts, Berbaums, Kanters, etc. I would just buy the wire, boots,clips, and cut to make your own. Really all you need is a universal set, any parts store should have them......

Nah, gonna pull my pan , clean ,inspect and paint, and re-install if okay. The sump on these babies are reversed too........Fred

Can I use this pan, or should I use mine or find another.......

Hi Jim, not sure if this link will provide the correctanswer your looking for or not......... http://www.toyoland.com/car-reviews/sienna.html

Hey all, picked up an oil pan tonight from a Friend, it is from a 251 truck engine. It has an extra access hole on the right side, not sure if that was for a different location for a dip stick, or some other purpose. I am not sure if I can plug this hole and use this pan, I would of course clean it up and paint it. Look at the sludge in this pan, real yummy looking.

Welcome Back Rob, glad it was a good and safe trip for you folks, looking forward to your posts..........Fred

Shawn try Rock Auto, great prices, Dormans cheapest, Raybestos more expensive. Thhose Napa prices are higher than Rock Auto.....

Hi James, someone I know on PWHM 46 to 48 Chrysler's stated this, Re: Fluid Drive Transmission woes Unfortunately, a worn input shaft can cause that slipping out of gear as well. I had it once. Just for info - I refilled my M6 with SAE 16ish (mix of 1 liter10 and rest 20) Now can't even hear the "thunk" when it shifts.

Wiped down oil pan, took car outside, let run for 15 minutes, can not see oil leaking. Now the oil was probably still too thick and cool to leak out, will check later to see where it dripped from after sitting a while. I would think if the rear main were leaking bad, it woould be immediate, as the oil is under pressure in there. I hope to drop pan within the week, and replace the pan and gaskets, and most likely bottom rear main seal.........Fred

Hi Phil looks good, I plan the same, touch up paint, using High Heat Tremclad Silver for engine, black for manifolds this time with a small brush......Fred

Phil, looks great, gotta a pic of the entire engine.

Thats a good idea. I havea donor oil pan ready to go pick-up. I think that is what I will do, then clean it test it, paint install it, and hopefully that works. I also re-filled my steering box last fall witha combo of oil, and greae, mixed intoa very thick syrup (Tim Adams recipe), it leaked a lot out over the winter, which made my drip pan and catlittler, really get oiled.......

No it's mostly on the rear bottom, around the drain pluig. likely it's a combo of rear main seal, pan gasket ends, front seal, timing cover, etc. I will not be trying to correct front seal , in-car. Just rear main, pan gasket, maybe oil pump gasket too.........Fred PS I hope to slow down the leaks at best, As Lou Earle once told me, you can buy a whole lot of "quarts of oil" for the price of an engine rebuild. I have wiped the oil pan clean, the engine has not ben started for 2 days, it looks dry sitting there, which leads me to believe it is not the pan, but most likely the seals and end gaskets on oil pan........Fred