55 Fargo

Hi all, I know a number of forum members have rebuilt engines, but I suspect many do not. Mine is a used engine from a 1951 Canadian Dodge, supposedly low miles, will never know. With you guiys driving with older higher mile, unrebuilt engines, how fast do you drive the cars, how much oil do you use, how much can an older flathead take. I figure I go through about a quart every 700 miles or so the oil pressure is good, the compression last test was uniform at 100 to110. I do take it easy on this engine drive at 50 to 55 mph most of the time, have a 3.73 diff, with a 3 spd standard trans. I do want to make this engine last a while, so want to baby her till then...........Fred

Went fora ride very early this morning, got back as it started to rain, wipers work good. The vibration does not seem to be there, not sure if adding more lube to the diff helped or not. I do need to change the u-joints, will have diff looked at bya localm transmission specialist. Luv this sport, nuttin but money, just not makin any, just spendin it..............LOL

You may be waiting a longtime, for me to perfect this job, uncharted territory for the most part. The upholsterer did say however, that I did a very decent job with the door panels. Least I got some of the interior right, the seats are done well too, by anohter Guy, who does not do headliners and carpets........

I will be getting a very similar access to the MC hatch, would not want it any other way...Fred

Hi all, found a local country upholsterer to install headliner, and to cut /sew and install carpet. He will cut and sew my carpet, he will supply underlay, that is $250. He will install a premade headliner, he will make the windlace, and install, this is $400, so for a total of $650, plus the cost for my ready made headliner, can have these 2 jobs done. What do you Guy's think, or should I take a run at this myself, and save buck$.........Fred

Only if it were used with an M5 or M6 semi-auto trans. The fluid drive is only a coupler, they were used with Ddoges, anda regular 3 spd trans,as well with the lower Chrysler lines too. Witha 3 spd and fluid drive, you had the advantage of using no clutch if you lik around town, could keep it in 2nd or 3rd gear and drive around like that. At stop lights, simply put you foot on brake and then drive away without going through shifts. In Canada the Chrysler Royals, had a 3 spd trans with a fluid drive coupler, not to be confused with a semi auto M5. Ed is right, that bell housng in the engine pic is way to short to be a fluid drive attached......Fred

Another good point was brought to my attention from Aero3113, he suggested I check my diff oil level. Now mine leaks a bit, I thought I checked it last fall, but think I did the fall before, when I replaced the lube in there. Well I was down a pint or so of lube in the diff, not too bright on my part. I have a new gasket, and need to get a new pinion seal, and get it changed. Thanx to Aero, I avoided disaster.............Fred

Hi Rob, collector auto supply, wants a $180 each for there u-joints, that is pricey. Roberts, lists them at $90 each. I will try the other you mentioned on Monday. My NOS parts Freined thinks he has a pair, but has not got back to me yet. Just went for a ride, makes the vibration noise at about 50 mph and over, the rear u-joint is getting clunky on take offs more than before, so time to get them replaced.........Fred

Rob, are these u-joints available from parts stores like NAPA. I cannot find a modern llisting for them anywhere...........Fred

Hey Ed, glad the ride was fun, the darn odometers, mine has done the sticking thing too, the speedo, and trip odometer is fine though........

Don't forget, I have modern style cross yolk u-joints, as my car is a Chrysler, they did not have ball and trunnion for 46 to 48 Chryslers. These are easy to pull and replace, should have 2 years ago, when I swapped the pumpkin in from a parts car......

Thanx Rob, they have been giving the occasional creak and ckunk, or the bell sound. The back joint is sloppy, I think they should be able to move up down, side to side, but not sloppy in there yolk or within themselves as mine are doing.....Thanx Fred

JUst crawled under the car rear u-joints are sloppy, can move them around. pretty good, fronts aren't as bad, but both should be replaced soon.....Fred

Yes these U-joints are old, and have seen better days, they are the cross-yolk type, waiting for another set, hope to replace them soon......Fred

Tim, there clean as a whistle as are the rims, even though I am on gravel road. My tires were a little out of whack, front right 27 psi, the rest 30 to 32, went back toa ll 34 psi. The tires are Good Year wrangler P series, but they are 13 years old, have some miles on them I put them on the rims about 2 1/2 years ago, they were balanced then. So the tires may be suspect. I just got back from going down my gravel road, which is super hard packed now, had her up to 60 mph, could not tell, the gravel road is too nosisy to begin with, will go down the highway tomorrow..Fred

It's possible, but with the vibration there is some noise too. It begins at about 50 to 55 mph, so more of a higher speed thing, anyone have any ideas.........

Hi all, Yesterday adjusted brakes, got a good pedal, brakes are real good too. On the highway at 55 mph and over, have a vibration, and what sounds like a tire noise, the type of noise you get over pavement when the score it all up, just before re-ashphalting. I know my u-joints aren't the greatest, and my tires have some miles on them, but are balanced and in resonably good shape. Does anyone have any ideas about this?...Thanx in advance..............Fred

Hi Rich, so the mesh filter fits into the opening of the Fram filter, so basically it surrounds the oil mesh filter? Correct.......Fred

Adam, always always, have fire extinguisher on board. I had my choke wiring go up in smoke a few years back, nothing happend, very lucky. 2 years ago while welding in some screw holes on the under side of the rear fenders into the body, I caught the old back seat on fire, very narrowly avoided tragedy, I got the flames out very quick, then opened my garage doors, and yanked the seats out, and threw them into the snow, where they burnt. I had a small fire extinquisher, thankfully, my big one was in for re-charge. I was very very lucky, but did breath up some nasty fumes as a result, and a 2 hour clean-up, could have been much worse.......Fred

Here is a pic of my spare fuel pump, only markings on it is Made In Canada. Anybody, have any idea what brand of pump this may be? This pump was checked out, and is in good condition, as of 2 years ago........Fred

She would no doubt make the trip, it, may make the driver a bit of a nervous wreck in doing so. I did not got to Autorama, World Of Wheels big show here the past eekend, told the Guys, the Back to 50s Show in St. Paul MN, is where I want to go, 14000 CARS..........

Hi Bob, pulled the drums, had a look at the brakes, looks like even ware, arrows pointing in right direction, on both front and back brakes. Looks like I gave the major adjusters a bit of outward adjustment to compensate for the drums being slighly oversized. I did see on 1 of the drums, a measurement that was painted on it,.022 over, was machined a bit, not much to clean them up, no doubt were machined a bit before too. I then adjusted the minor adjusters, so they just barely touched the drums, and cleaned everything out with compressed air. The MC was full, no leakages detected. The brakes are very good, pedal high , and very responsive. I am not sure they are right where they should be for heel and toe, will check this again, when I get a device to check them out. Thanx Bob, and all for the good advice and ideas.............Fred

Way to go Eddie:D, got a lot of good info, encouragement, advice, and ideas from Young Ed. Very glad to know Ed, as a good forum buddy.........

Shel, I have a spare filter from a later style 1951, would that top fit into the earlier housing I wonder, I would cut that one, that's for sure. I may even have 2 of those..............fred

Rich, does the filter mesh easily remove from the top lid, mine is attahced, don't I have to remove this first before placing a paper filter inside. Can you let me know. Here is a pic of my engine showing the air filter.