55 Fargo

Sorry Rob, my engine is a 1951 Canadian, with internal by-pass water pump, so I have a modern t/stat, readily available anywhere

Yes this is true Frankie, but if a T/stat is stuck open, or opens way faster than it should, then the coolant will take much longer to warm to operating temp. On 160 t/stats, they should be opening at around 155 to 160 degrees, and will be fully open by 180, witha 180 t/stat it should begin to pen at about 174 and be fully open at 200, this is according to the books anyway....

Hey all, I have noticed in fall and in recent runs, my 160 t/stat seems to either be opening too soon, or is stuck parially open, or some other problem. My engine was taking a long time to get to operating temps too, and would cool down easy on cold days drives. Now I do know my t/stat, which is a normal modern type, as I have the internal by-pass waterpump, it seemed to open very easy, last time I had it out, it is a 160 degree. Now I do not drive my car in winter, but do start it, move it around,go for some gravel road ride when the road is dry, should I use a 180 degree t/stat. I prefer the 160 for the following reasons, for hot summer weather, I get a better margin of running to hot,which IMHO, is over 190 on a consistent basis, on hot days I like to stay at 170-180, she stays at about 170 on hot days most of the time, unless I am pushing it, or I am in stop and go traffic for miles. I suppose I could go witha 180 t/stat, and switch to a 160, for the hot months. I plan to swap in a new t/stat this week, what are some of you Guy's running for temps on your T/stats.......Thanx Fred

Nice photo Bob, and hey the Wife likes the old car, what else could you hope for.....

Okay Greg, how about Holupchi (cabbage rolls), Pyrohi (perogies), Kolbassa, we have this along with roast Turkey, Ham, Meatballs, whipped potatoes, stuffing, gravy, cranberry sauce. Theh the dessert, could be either pumpkin, lemon, apple pies, cakes, dainties, and all kinds of goodies. The aformentioned Ukrainian food is from my Fathers side, Krushtiki, is great, I love those things, as well as pediskey( little tiny bite size buns with sauer kraut inside)

I enjoyed the ride Busycoupe, the scenery is very much like many parts of Winnipeg City, especially River Heights, Wolseley, West Broadway, and the Tuxedo areas. Did you give her a wash on your return.....

Hey Bob, thanx for the pics, what Body Of Water is that in the pics. Most water except some rivers, and fast moving creeks, are froze over up here.....Fred

A couple of things to consider with seat rebuilding. The outer covers are 1 thing, then you have padding, the coil springs especially the seat bottoms, the frame work. There is no point in throwing new material over smelly wron out padding/foam,that stuff should be replaced if tis is the case. The coil springs, and seat integrity should all be corrected too. I had my seats re-covered, and rebuilt, by an upholsterer, he corrected a lot of issues with the coil springs, and frame itself. Now if the seats are in really good shape, then installing new covers should be the ticket. Neil the covers look good, keep us posted once you start to install everything....Fred

Good thing, it is not impossible to set-up, and adjust these Lockheed brakes without these over-priced vintage tools, or many of us would not be able to drive these cars. My brakes are doing very well without adjustmemt with either the Ammco or Miller tools. Now I am not saying these tools would give you a better clearance or initial set-up, but I have found, once the shoes, brake- in for a while, and they are periodically adjusted, they work quite well. I also know lot of Guy's also had trouble setting these brakes up too, I had a good pedal right from the get go, once the brakes were bled properly, and the blind adjustments,were intially done

My car/engine never sees 5 degrees, for cold starts, as inside it is rarely below 30 f, except for the coldest weather, where it might drop to 25 f inside. Now my shop is well insulated, and if I turn on the heat, it gets nice and warm in there too. I generally keep the heat off in there as it is electric, which equals big $ to run all day. My car is never stored outside, so never sees real cold temps for starting.....

Here are some day pics, including my Daughter, and Jolly Old St. Nick......

It was 47Heaven, but I believe he already found a replacment, hey this one could be also used as a thumb screw....

Hey all,something for our Southern friends, had my 2 youngest Sons out tonight, to the local outdoor redneck rink, in Clandeboye, Canada. The outside temp was balmy, and pleasant, about 15 f, nice for outdoorskating, and a scrub hockey game. Both of my Boys can skate and handle a puck real well. The older of the 2 , is the same boy, I posted You Tube videos of him skate boarding. It was a nice night to be out......

You got that right Frankie....LOL

I suppose that FD would be, you get the engine and drivetrain spooling up, something like a snowmobiles drive clutch.....Fred

This would be correct' date=' as this aftermarket signal light switch would have the relay circuit built in to allow the seperation for the brake, and signal circuit to work in unison. If you do not have this type of signal switch, such as the 3 wire switch, then relays must be added to allow both circuits to work in conjunction, clear as mud......LOL Link to aftermarket signal light switch with 7 wire circuit to allow brake and signal light to work togther. [url']http://automotive-hardware.com/universal-turn-signal-switch-p-292.html[/url]

Hi all, in order to encorporate, the tail lights into the mix, for brake lights. You will have to wire in a couple of relay switches, this allows the signals, and brake light circuits to work correctly. To illustrate, if you have signal lights wired to the tail lights, with dual pin sockets, 1 for tail lights, 1 for signal lights, if you then wire in the stop lamp circuit to the signal lights, the brake lamp would flash every time you turned on the signals, and if you had the brake pedal circuit activated, not sure what would cancel out. This circuit, can be wired in, and fabbed up, it's not too difficult, I know of a few that have done it, I will be wiring this into my signal/brake light circuits sometimes this winter.....Fred

Thanx Ralph, I have no idea what I had, other than some type of "flu", very strange dreams, with a high fever and major chills, glad that did not last long, no pleasant....

Hey how about some snow scene pics of the beautiful country side of Virgnia and Maryland. Rodney, you need a Vintage "winter beater", to cruise around with, how about an old Willy's Jeep, or a Dodge Powerwagon.

Heater works great, blower fan is got good force too. Of course these heater and defrost systems of yesteryear, are not what we have in modern vehicles today. If the clock ticked back 50 or 60 years, I would have frost shields on my windows, the back and the side doors, to allow me to see out, even if the vehicle was warm, the windows would frost up. My heater would be awesome, with a 180 t/stat, I am running a 160, and it gets toasty warm blowing out of the heater by the time the gauge is registering 130 BTW Chet your car looks A1

Hi all, after being quite ill for 2 days, with who know's what, I am feeling much better, infact had to take a winter cruise in the 47. Before anyone shreeks, what is Rockwood, doing taking his car out in the snow. I only went down my road, it is fairly snow free, no salt, and quite cold 5 above farenheit. I went for a short cruise up and down my road a few times, car ran great, nice and quiet, warmed up good too, it's always nice to go for a ride in this old car....

What the "H" is that, I have been living here in the North for years, and have never seen something like that....

I see the anti-freeze for the driver is in the pic too, nothing like some Crown, premium Canadian Rye Whiskey

Thanx for the info