55 Fargo

Stude I think.

89.02 mph in the ? 1/4 mile?

Sure no problem hopefully someone will clue us in. Again sound and noise is secondary in this thread. Performance pro and con and pipe size, routing ir 2 into 1 is what i would like to hear about.

Okay good by me. Now moving on, hope to get feedback on exhaust pipe routing, size, cross over pipes or even 2 into 1 pipe.

I didnt say that its " not good enough". I dont always like loud. My question is not really about sound but routing 2 into 1 and the effects on performance.

Hey all, Been pondering exhaust routing for split manifolds and/or headers. Tru duals all the way back? Cross over pipe yes or no? Muffler and pipe size choices? And 2 pipes into 1 and followed by larger pipe out muffler. How pipes effect sound performance and torque...

Kool 57 in the background. Whos is it? Whats under the hood? Is it being driven these days? Souped up 265?

Michel thanx all for the great info guys. And that its good to know..

Just use an Android phone and take pics of it and upload it on here. You will have to reduce the pic size to be able to upload it. Or scan with a printer and upload it. I was born 1961 not too much more advanced in the computer age.

Would not hurt, but could do without on low boost. The lower compression is a good thing for turbo boost

Hey fill us in? How she run and perform?

Yup posted those u videos a few times. Kevin must done this a while back I like it, nice draw through style. Never ever found any follow up vids. I would try this but no jack $hit about how-to undertake it. A stock 265 low compression would be perfect.

Very technical info. One comment you make. The adapter plate being fine. Being the fact the intake carb base is tiny and the adapter is more or less funnel shaped feeding 3 siamesed intake runners. How efficient will that be with what seems like a reduction to start with ? Im hoping it works well for 4 mula, but have some reservations on the use of the adapter base. Can you give us some data on using a 2bbl carb adapter on these intakes with 1 2bbl carb please?

Cook your breakfast, lunch and supper and cure small painted parts at the same time.

Thanx HRT. Think this evolved to the slant 6...

Any performance specs based on this prototype. Tim Kingsbury mentioned this engine to me once upon a time...

Okay check out a slant 6 2bbl intake its runner lengths and carb plenum. Now of course it has 6 intake ports, superior right off the bat. Its an OHV engine too. Many on Slantsix.org report big improvements going from a 1 bbl to 2bbl intake and carb. Going to a 4 bbl even more power. I have not seen a custom made 4 bbl intake for our flatheads. Im sure there are some but how well does it work compared to 2 or 3 carbs feeding the siamesed ports?

The results should be evident immediately. Now others who have used this 2bbl to 1bbl adapter and webber 32 36 carb say its a great improvement. Have no idea what that entails. Easier start ups, more power, and or better fuel economy? Now the matter of the adapter plate bigger wider 2 bbl opening to smaller opening. Bigger 2 bbl carb dumping fuel into a sorta funnel. Will this result in lower induction capabilities? Will this dump fuel resulting in cyls 3 and 4 being rich and the rest leaner? Let us know your findings when you can. Hope it works okay for you and offers more power too.

.080 is fine heck .125 can be done. .060 is not the limits for these engines. They have very thick castings. .080 cooling issues not likely. Piston availability is an issue, Egge has them some say there pistons are marginal but your not building a race engine. Is this a USA short 218 or Canadian long 218? The Canadian 218s can overbored right to 3 7/16 ( .0.60 over) and fitted with standard sized 251 pistons . Or find another block or resleeve every hole. Gove George Asche a call 814 354 2621he can give you the straight up on this.

Hey that actually looks good on there. Okay so did you open up the hole on the manifold? How does it run? I m guessing no chance to road test yet. Now with headers and a Holley 2bbl you expecting some more punch?

UPDATE: Hey all, been a while again and I apologize for the delay on the A833 happenings. Okay here is the SCOOP, The AoK adapter plate and my Canadian built T 98 Acme bell are having an issue. While the adapter plate does bolt on the bell housing in the smaller 4 bolt pattern, it cannot bolt onto the 4 bolt pattern that my T98A trans attached to. Now this is because of the following, the 4 bolts to hang the T98 A are 5/8 threads, so the adapter plate is designed for 7/16 bolts, next issue is, the 4 inner bolt holes to align to this bell, but, now the plate center input hole is not dead center to the bell housing hole or the crankshaft. This T98 A trans was used in Jeep, Ford and Canadian built M37 Power Wagons, not sure how it ended up in my light duty 108 WB Fargo pickup, nor will I ever know. So this project is ground to a halt for the time being, but we are looking at solutions while I type this, for my case only. I cannot attest to any 1940s through 50s USA car/truck bells or Canadian built bells, not using a T98A transmission. I apologize for the delay and hope to bring more updates to the "table" when possible. Some pics for those to have an idea what I am up against. I did create a bronze bushing to reduce the throwout bearing assembly to work with the A833 input-shaft, which turned out very well, and its super simple. The car type and smaller truck type throw out bearing work as is. a 10.5 or 11 inch Mopar 23 t clutch disc is whats needed with your stock flywheel and clutch, again a simple part of the equation. If the plate was aligned to register dead center on my odd ball bell it would be such a simple swap, it's not funny. The A833 input shaft with the adapter place is the correct length. Its basically the same length as the T98Acme trans input shaft minus the plate. So a correct for for the pilot bushing and crank end. other considerations for the time being, my diff gearing is 3.23 , this with a .73 overdrive is a little tall for my engine power and the truck, a 373 would be best, at the very least a 3.55 and the most a 3.90 set of gears. I do not see any issue with the gear spread from 1st to 3rd gears, as it is essentially the same as my T98 A from 2nd to 4th gears. The T98 A is back in for a short time again, a very heavy trans, and fun to put back in. STAY TUNED

You can install all new brake shoes have drums machine if needed. Set major adjuster to factory spec adjust minor to slight drag. It takes times but the shoe lining will wear into drum radiaii. Keep adjusting minor adjusters periodically to achieve best brakes. Or adjust new brakes witha Miller or Ammco tool after having shoes arced to drums resulting in instant great brakes. With some " wear in" and adjustment these brakes can be very good.

Okay you 2 stick with the 2 door models

I m guessing to allow this setup too work together the hub and rotor are deep looking..

Thats what some of tbe HAMB guys think too. Looks like caliper is bolted right on and used hub and rotor over stock spindle.