55 Fargo

Then go with the 218 starter motor, and a fresh solenoid switch. This will spin like a MF, and crank the engine to life way better than on a 6 v diet. I know this as, I have done this with mine, when I first got it running....

Thanx Bob, I was thinking the same thing last night. I have a Friend who has a bunch of them, maybe I can piece something together

Or, find a 56 or later 12 volt starter motor that was from a flathead 6. I have a 56 12 volt starter in my truck, and it is great. The 12 volt starts up as easy as my 2005 Caravan 3/4 of the time, cannot say the same for my 6 volt 47 Chrysler, it is a fussy starter, I have the 2/0 cables, and all is in decentshape, but does not start like my 12 volt flattie..

Spent a whole lotta a time on this dang light today. Well I can tell you, I know how to to take this unit apart and put back togther blind folded. The shaft wire that has a spring contact on 1 end, and a brass tiny contact that goes into the switch is broken off on that side, I tried unsuccessfully to repair this. The switch is not that great either. The switches you can still buy new from Unity. I did do some slight damage on the dismantling of this unit, or something was not installed correctly, but it still rotates and does what it's supposed to do, but seems tighter than before, almost like something binding, but not quite. So do not know what I will do to remedy this, maybe buy another lamp someday, and just replace, this was a paint, to say the least.....thanx for listening

Hey all, my unity spotlamp, will not light up. The shaft wire, with tiny contact is broken off right at the contact that goes into the handle assembly to the switch contact. Anyone have any ideas on fixes, or where I can get parts. I am not sure if Unity will still have parts for this older unti...

I couldn't agree with you more , it is about the 40s and 50s cars and trucks with the flatheads, not high dollar cars compared to the Muscle Mopar Era. I had a 1971 Duster Twister 340 4 speed 4.11 rear end, wouldn't mind having that car now.But I am also in love with the flathead 6 s, today an Guy visiting with a Friend of mine today, said a 340 would look nice under the hood of my 47 Coupe, but I told him, she is a flathead all the way. Here are pics of my coupe, which was a real mess when I got her, full of rust in floors, rockers trunk. I had no glass,seats, interior plastic, radio clock, a lot of trim,window cranks, eschutcheons, you name it. I sourced parts, bought parts cars, bought some repop and NOS items. I have about 4 grand into my car, I did 90% of the work, I did not recover the seats, but did the door pansl and the carpet, body and paint done by me. Now I no it is only a driver type, but Pat S, and Aero 3113 have both had rides in the car, and have seen it up cloes and personal. I was driven to do this car, I still need a headliner, rechroming, and better stainless items. Having said all this, do not regret doing this, but it was not alwasy easy, and it would have been a whole lot nicer car, if I had a better budget, but I didn't, and I am living with my handiwork....

nice little fan motor,my 6 volt motor, is working great with my homemade voltage dropper. But I am going to call my local NAPA and get price, just in case. I dont plan to use it a lot, and will not be driving much in the super cold weather....

A resto rod or hot rod would be okay too. More feasible froma financial time point, and at least it would not and up being chinese metal...

Hey would it be an option to cut the steering column and rod in 2 pieces on my old steering box still in the truck. The steering box is shot, and would it be any easier to have it all in 2 pieces for removal, then I may be able to pull steering wheel off on the bench. Just pondering if this is a good or bad idea.......Fred

Thanx Frankie, a few donor cars could be in the mix to get this project parted up

The dash and gauges and such may swap with those from 46-48 Chryslers, and possibly the plastic stuff too. I see the heater box is there, and the radio and clock too. This is a major project, but one that could end in a fantastic car. If this were a T&C, it would be even more valueable.

Hi what a great car, no doubt you may need some parts cars to complete the task. I know a Guy who did a 48 New Yorker Convertable, it had a very rusty floor, so he found a donor car, and used the floor and cowl from a 4 door sedan, it worked great. The dash plastic , the escutcheons, door and window cranks, those type of things are what are hard to find, and pricey. Too bad , way back in the 70s and 80s, you did not buy all the little items that are now harder to find, and have become expensive. I would suggest possibly inventoring all of what you may need, and see what your up against. I would say some of the sheet metal from the cowl back, may be the same as the 46-48 Dodge, Desoto and Chryslers, but that would have to be confirmed. But if so, that isa good thing for donor car parts. This truly is a great car, and I really do hope you revive her to her former splendor. Lots of the mechanical parts are available new or NOS, speak with Dodgeb4ya, he can certainly advise you. I would also get to the Hershey swap meet this fall, and see what you can dig up........

Now thats a bush hauler for sure Ed......LOL

Great minds think alike,my thoughts today too, I remember you telling me about the pinion seals, and not pushing them all the way in, so they seal better. I swear there is slightly less play in this gear with the new seal,. but can't be....

Nothing like an old truck to have around in the country....

Okay the new staeering gear seal I used, is a Chicago Rawhide( seal is neoprene), Part # 12333 size 1.250 insdie diameter for shaft, and 1 11/16 for the outer diameter for the housing. This is an Ingersoll Machine Steering box for Canadian built Fargo and Dodge trucks. The gear is on the bench filled with heavy weight gear lube, so far no signs of leaking, but just poured it in. Also keep in mind this generic sael is slightly thicker than the OEM, protruding out, about .060 or a 1/16 of an inch, which in no way hampers the pitman arm...

Again guys, this box is the ingersoll machine steering gear for Canadian built trucks, will not necessarily be the same as the Gemmers..

great news Randy, all the best to you

My steering box is a Ingersoll Machine(Canadian built trucks), the seal may not be the same size as your Gemmer boxes. The s seal is slighly thicker, about 1/16 of an inch, b ut no big deal. I do not know yet if it will seal the box fom leaking 90 gear oil. Whats the big deal, nothing to special about a seal ,if it fits and seals is what counts......

Just got a phone call from the shop, new seal installed, threads cleaned up on steering shaft that bolts the wheel down. Total= $20.00 labor + $5.00 for the seal. Now when I get it home, will fill with gear oil on bench and see if it holds.....

Hey all, had to unfortunately relocate a very mature Globe Cedar from right in front of the house, but hoping the transplant will allow it to live, a 50 50 chance. Here I am in the 55 Fargo pullin it out of its location, I first dug all around, to get everything loosened up. The truck walked it out no problem, and saved me a lot of extra work, this tree was a lot heavier than it looks. So I reallylike the fact, I will be using this truck to do work around the "farm" too....

Its there right now, and at their machine shop, had steering wheel nut threads cleaned up, and the shaft seal is 1 1/4 inside, 1 11/16 outside. Vintage Power Wagon, does not have them, and their advice is JD conr head grease, which is fine with me too. I have 1 box with STP in it, and it is doing fine....

1 other thing, this steering box, as other Canadian Dodge or Fargo trucks, had Ingersoll Machine steering boxes, not Gemmers. Now where in the ehck do you find the seals for this, I have heard that a Ford seal works, but from what year,model etc. Any Canuck truck owners have any clues?????

Yup, to create a very thick fluid gear lube. The JD corn head grease is 0 weight, used in many type gear boxes, should be no issue using this on our steering boxes.

The key word, is that parts aren't so worn, that a seal won't seal. I am going to isntall a seal, and see what happens. If it does not seal, corn head it will be, no qualms about it...