55 Fargo
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Everything posted by 55 Fargo
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Anyone using 85W 140 gear oil, in there diffs, steering boxes etc. I am thinking of using some of this to top off my diff on the Chrysler, until I can get the pinion seal dealt with later in the summer. I have been putting this task off, for a couple of years, my diff leaked about a 1/2 pint or close to it,. sitting from Novemeber until now. I figure the thicker lube may hold a bit beeter until I can change the seal........
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That sounds good, so this stuff is nice and plyable to smooth with fingers.
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I am getting set to repair a steering wheel, and many of you have used PC 7 with success, and I am thinking of using the same for my repair. I have read about POR epoxy putty, and how it is so easy to work with, can spread it with your hands, great for steering wheel and plastic repairs etc. I am just wondering if anyone has tried both of these products, and what there end reuslt was, and whatmight be the better choice for steering wheel crack repairs......thanx Fred
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Answered my own ?? Here is the link for thee parts at Rock http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,carcode,1437797,parttype,7428,d,1955_DODGE_C-1_DU6_3.8L_230_cubic_inch_L6_Tie_Rod_End.html
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Anyone happent to know a modern parts number for 1955 Dodge truck, outer tie rod ends. I can't seem to find any listings, for something like NAPA Rock Auto etc......thanx Fred
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Sure that clamp should work, tighten it up , hit the turn screw with a hammer, to jar it some. Infact I gotta big clamp that will be made into one of those. I had to tighten the puller snug on mine, then hit it with a hammer, and bingo right off, and no thread damage either
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Pulled steering column and box earlier today, whata breeze compared to the steering wheel. I had a donor steering box ready to go back in, this box is nice and tight. What a difference, night and day, this is even with a bit of slop in 1 tie rod end, makes driving it much safer and easier.....Gotta paint and repair steering wheel yet. I might pull the another wheel I have and paint and fix that 1 to go in.....
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Hre it is, my steering puller, bearing splitter was small, so made some tabs, and bolted a hub puller with 2 legs, and off she came. This sucker was tight, I did break out a tiny chunk of the steering wheel too, oh well it needs a lot of epoxy anyway. The pics
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I probably have 1 on a fluid drive unit out in my shed, could check over the next few days and see what size it is. I also have a nonfluid drive throw out bearing too, so can try a comparison. Did the Straight 8s use the same as the 6s????
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Right on brother, gotta do this to mine tomorrow, got a fresh steering box on the bench to go in. The hard part is the steering wheel, I have the rest on and off a few times before...
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Hi James, there are those who certainly can advise you on this swap. I would however suggest doing a search with this topic, there should be plenty of info for you to digest. I do believe some V8 swaps include mounting the engine off center to clear the steering box. Apparently for the 318 swaps, there are cerain years with manifolds designed on the left side to accomodate the clearance issue. Or I suppose custom built headers may be considered. Having never done this swap, do not want to lead you down the wrong road. BTW welcome the Forum,( Oops , see you have been on for 6 years) it is truly a great Old Mopar Club.............
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Great Car Rob, very cool........
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Thanx Rob, think I am going to try the bearing splitter and jaw pulled or a bar and bolts with the bearing splitter, and hopefully will get the wheel off. The donor steering box is ready to go in.....Fred
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I would like to see a home made steering wheel puller, andybody done this? If so any pics? This would be for the truck steering wheels.....
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Hey Pat, what about welding on the column shift bracket onto something else, that could be modded to work, is that in the realm of possiblities
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Hi Bill, I need the switch, and internal small gear shaft with the wire, the trick is the shaft length has to be the same to swap, other wise I need the both shafts , at least I think thats how it works. Send me a pM if you want to sell, anything or an entire unit for parts....
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I know my 12 volt 55 Fargo truck starts so easy it is unbelievable. I have a 12 volt coil, stock ballast, and points, no solid state ignition. I can see adding the electronic ignition will make it start and run better. Honestly Guys, this truck starts 9 times out of 10, as well as my 2005 Dodge Caravan, even after sitting for days...
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Either area had any stampings did find a number elsewhere that ended in 49, but could just bea casting number.....
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This trans has a back up light swith by the look of things, unless that was for some other type of application with a warning for reverse operation. The ebrake, a speedo, to me it looks like a passenger car or light truck trans....
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So is the trans thats in my car, froma a 1951 Canadian built Dodge, opposite side of a P15 s
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Anyone know what year of Mopar 3 spd trans this is from, will it bolt to a flathead clutch housing. It has an electrical switch is that for reverse lights?
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Great family you have their, I sure enjoy my Kids too....... ps even whe they drive me nut..............LOL
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Thanx Guys, Yes they still make the Vintage stuff, although handles might be different. I just got off the phone, they have all parts for my Model H1 , looks like I need about $40.00 worth of parts. IThey also repair, all Unity Spot lights. The Vintage lights are around the $239.00 for a brand new unit. I need the centre gear shaft that has the new wire with both contacts, and a new handle switch, a lock pin for the ligh housing, and couple of screws, that should render mine good as new...
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Just be sure to use heavy battery cables, 2/0 or 1/0 even with 12 volt going in, as the starter will have a higher amperage draw on 12 volts, if it is a 6 volt starter...
