55 Fargo

I have no experience with these engines, but post war engines did have better cooling abilities, but Ford did not employ a water distribution tube like Mopar 6s. Don't overlook the fact this car could be from outside the state, and been transplanted after 5 years of snow belt driving, you never know....

I think the usual spots for body and frame rot, rockers floors bottom of front fenders lower 1/4s etc. Check trunk floor and frame to body mounts. Is it a driver,, is it running? If so, see how well she heats up, or smokes, these engines were known for cracking around valve seat areas, if I am not mistaken. Upside, being a Furd, no doubt plenty of repop items for body and trim parts. Again, body and sheet metal biggest price to repair, does it still have it's interior, is it very complete?

Thanx for posting Neil, Bobs Last name is Drown , just to let you know

Anyone hear from Bob AKA 40Plymouth, He has not posted since 2012-08-19, and was completing all final chemo treatments. This is not like Bob to not post on here, or not answer Emails and PMs, sure hope He is doing well, I have tried to telephone him, but no answer. Bob, if you read this, hope all is well with you, and your feeling well.....

Get a carb kit, and go to a nice clean work bench, unless your carb body is so warped and shaft fittings are all leaking. Do it yourself, it's not super difficult....

Chrysler Canada built only 25 inch engines at the Windsor Ontario plant. They came in many displacements, for example, 218,228,237,251,265.Shouldn't be all that difficult to get parts for the 265, but of course the 218 and 230 short engines would havce more, especially the perforamnce add-ons. I have a 218 in my 47 Chrysler coupe, it originally had a 251, but someone years back dropped in a 218, as it is so easy with same block....

Sorry Pa, will do better next time.....

Yah, I have a 48 Chrysler drive shaft and trans yolk, you could. Canadian built 46-48 Mopar cars used modern ujoints front and rear. Maybe this could work for you, be shortened, or cut off end caps weld to your drive shaft. PS I sold 2 of those u-joints your looking to buy last year for like 30 each, they were NOS. Give this Guy a call, Norm Mid Canada Suspension 1-204-475-3399 , He specializes in vintage Mopar parts

No kiddin....LOL actually the new shocks are already installed, and the new one for the front today.

Thanx all for the replies, I have installed new shocks on rear yesterday, will install fronts today. I re-greased all zerks again, I have some stubborn ones, will have to take them off and see whats up. The springs are not bad, not stiff and not flexing, like some I have read about on here. The king pins seem tight, the outer tie rod ends, are loose, the steering box and pitman arm and tie rod are in good shape. Will report back later

Pulled all 4 shocks today, all were toast, collapsed and stayed that way. Do you think this would affect ride and handling???

Pics of shock mount tweaking

Just got back from heavy duty truck shop. One of the welders, heated the lower shock plate, and bent it to allow shock to align top to bottom mount. Cost me 1/2 hour labor....

Come on Rob, not even a little bit.....LOL I am not overly partial with it either

My exact sentiments Gentlemen, a rough specimen that was created into this is 1 thing, the debauchery of a very nice OEM is another. I like Hot Rods and Customs, but not over rare and clean Stock Models such as this Coupe.

Thanx Dave, if the bottom shock mount stud is the same angle as the shocks position from bottom to top, meaning the lower mount is on the mount stud at the correct fit, not binding. Would that be correct, even if the actual top and bottom mount are 90 degrees opposite. Physics wise it seems doable....

Nice panel,this is true,best kept secret, a lot of rust free vehicles, in parts of Montana, western Nebraska,and Maybe parts of Wyoming too, dry areas, will have a lot of gems...

This lower mount plate has the shock mount 90 degrees opposite of the top mount. That in itself is not bad, as long as both angles and the travel are congruent to each other, but in my case they are not. I need to heat and bend the lower shock mount stud, to allow a better fit, if that goes well, the travel, and load on each mount should be fine, regardless the fact they are 90 degree opposite mounted. Is my thinking correct, is this does not work,will have some type of new shock mount welded to lower plates, will see about that tomorrow...

Nope, just a fast summer.....LOL Actually while its not super hot, its still around 80 or so today. Environment Canada weather is predicting a nice warm fall, bring on the "Indian Summer", warm days and cool nights.... PS it's so darn dusty, just wiped counters a little while ago, dusty again..

I dunno fellow Manitoban, for as hot and dry it has been, wouldn't think winter could be so cruel here. BUT IT IS.........LOL

Today went to Winnipeg( biggest city in area) 18 miles away, to North End springs, had 4 gr#8 9/16 Ubolts made up, with washers and nuts $40.00, took about 5 minutes to make...

It would be around $113000.00 USD. Being this car is a Royal, and Quite Rare, well in it's OEM form, I think Elizabeth 2, Should buy it for Her, Grandson Harry, to tool around with it in the USA on His Frollicks, Maybe ole Charley should get it for His Boy...

52 bed, I have 55 rear fenders and running boards to match, those will go on later. Those running boards on now, were just cut down by someone. Hey I need square U Bolts 9/16 thread 2 5/8 space between threads 8 inches long or so. Do you or anyone know of a supplier????

Okay today pulled Ubolts of rear springs, and removed 3.25 inch blocks. This was a fairly straight forward task, not too difficult. The shocks that are toast, were near full extension with the blocks, but seem to be the right length for the now lowered truck, willl investigate further soon. The ubolts, 9/16 trhead were buggered, I do hvave a 9/16 fine die to try and re-cut the threads, so will need new shorter length U bolts. For temporary, only to move the truck very slowly, I cut hard wood blocks, and tightened the bottom shock mount against them, in order to tighten u-bolts somewhat. Gonna try and get U bolts tomorrow or Tuesday, then will get new shocks, hope this makes for better control and handling. I like the stance and look much better..........here are the pics, and the 1st one shows the old height. Now back to the roof body work

Mission accomplished, will post pics and details in a while