FlashBuddy

LOL - Except they sent the wrong parts! No offense intended and I know Horkey's is revered around here. I just thought it was funny ??

Well @Merle Coggins, I mixed up fifty fifty boiling water and Simple Green. Gave it all a soak, toothbrush scrub. A little poke in any hole I could find. Carb cleaner spray rinse and compressed air blow dry. Put it all back together. Rox fired right up and let me tell you - WOW! Runs so much better. More responsive, more power; highly recommended course of action. Thanks for the suggestions and pushing me towards the obvious.

Damn. Sounds like I'm in for a rebuild. Maybe a new accelerator pump will make my acceleration hesitation bog go away?!

LOL Interestingly, my truck came with a carb rebuild kit. Some parts (gaskets) are obviously used while most of the parts are new, including a needle and seat. Oh, accelerator pump too. Now I'm conversing with myself over how important rebuilding it all is vs. just new seals, needle and seat. Do you think a new accelerator pump is important?

Figured it out. Found a small brass thingy with a black tip in the driveway this AM.

What is a bazinga? I checked Napa and they were clueless.

I may have wrecked something. I have the carb off now. I'll have some questions come morning.

Put on an inline fuel filter backwards at first, then saw the "In" stamped on one end and turned it around, but not until I tried strarting her. Now when trying to start, engine catches pretty good but won't keep running and then I see fuel dripping from the bottom of the carb - lots of fuel. What changed? Fuel lines are not leaking. What would be the next best course of action?

Great day for a drive down by the ocean.

Ditto

With temps begining to drop the time was ripe to pull the non-functiong heater out of the truck. After disassembly the parts (except the motor and switch) were submerged into a bucket of vinegar; love that stuff. A paste made from flour, salt and vinegar was whipped up and slathered onto the core. Several days later and with a little wire brushing the parts are ready for the next sunny day and a coat of Rustoleum primer. While that is drying I'll make a trip to Home Depot to see what colors of hammertone paint they have in stock. The motor was frozen, but with a little lube and the @B1B Keven speedometer trick of drill attached to cable, I attached the heater motor shaft to the drill and after some time it freed up and now will run off the battery. Color ne optimistic?

@DJ194950, you been snooping around my garage?!

I too was curious how acurate the temp gauge was, so I bought this to assuage my fears: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539007223&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=temperature+gun&psc=1 I have read here where others did buy aftermarket sensor and guage. That too looks like an inexpensive and simple install for peace of mind. My radiator cooling fins are partually occluded with petrified bees, flies etc. and I'm hoping when I clean those out I'll be able to get the temp down five degrees to stave off a complete flush; water distribution tube and all. Your video was a hoot to watch, thanks for making that effort ?

I like how you did the brake lines. I followed the original but had a helluva time attaching to the cylinders. Next time I'm copying you!

You are experiencing the "green filter". EBAY costs money to advertise. Back in the 90's, Lego Land was the nicest park we had taken our kids to, also the most expensive ?

I'm voting to remove the 4 screws, disconnect the light bulbs - mine just pull out - take out the speedo, unscrew the lube cover and put several drops of light oil into the wick. I used my wife's sewing machine oil. For the cable I'm on board with complete removal, then flush with brake cleaner, then re-lube with your choice of lubricant.

Small world. Started my family in Cambria. Was awake and saw Schooners burn down (inside job, not like Paul's). Worked for five or so years at the West End Bar & Grill that replaced it. Locals affectionately referred to the town as "Cambrilot" where life behind the green curtain was idyllic. Moved to Fort Collins in '04 and haven't looked back. Morrow Bay - Our family learned to skate and play hockey at Flippos. Great memories. Cambria ocean sunset from "The Ranch" with lupins.

Wow, can I send you my trim pieces to work on? I only have three bars from the B1B grill

I'd put a boquet of flowers in the basket ?

I was surprised to find it. It was sitting right above a bee hive so I didn’t get real close. Let me ask them what they want for it next trip or I can try to email them.

My new best friend Mike texted an invite for a junkyard run. I had to weigh that against the coffee shop invite from the wife. I scored a wooden box for eight bucks. Mike pulled a Merc radio, speedometer and e-brake parts. Still cogitating on the rear bumper. With the under bed spare I'm not sure how that would work.

As is typical, I'm sure I spent more money on rounding up hubcaps and then refreshing them than it would have cost me to just have bought a new set from Robert's or DCM Classics. That notwithstanding, I had so much fun de-rusting, cleaning and painting them. The trick to it is the quarter inch bendable masking tape (Amazon.com) to get the initial circle. I then used an exacto knife to cutout the lettering. Something to do while watching the wife's who done it shows. For paint, I tried a couple colors I had on hand, then ended up going to O'Reilly's and picking something off the shelf that was close enough - Dupli-Color Toreador Red Met. Heck, the hubcaps are not close to perfect so it stands to reason the paint can be off too, right? From a distance they look pretty good - to the untrained eye. Maybe somebody here has an off the shelf rattle can color that is a better match and can chime in. For my scratched and dented hubcaps I didn't think a trip to Finish Masters for a custom mix was worth the cost and spraying effort.

I don't know anything much about axles, but I do like the look of your truck. Welcome to the forum.

I recommend using washers. I checked Ace Hardware and couldn’ find any so I visited the local junk yard and scooped up a couple. I don’t see any problem with using flat washers. The shock mounting stud I recently purchased from Speedway Motors came with flat washers. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Universal-Tube-Shock-Mount-Stud-Bolt,5485.html

Nope, I had to point it out, and the other reason I went with 215/70 vs. 215/75. Didn't notice the bead or the part about being for snow tires, thanks Brian ?