FlashBuddy

I would expect PDF file to be printed at somewhere like Costco, or Walmart Photo Center on a 36" printer. That will get you your paper template. From there transfer to something of substance such as FRP from Home Depot or Lowes <View Product at Home Depot> for substrate, then covered with your fabric/vinyl/leather of choice. But then, what do I know? I've never done a headliner, or any other interior panel, though I'm looking forward to giving it a go. If my $100.00 investment in supplies and my amazing skills can't do it, I can always fall back on DCM Classics Complete Kit => - It's only $520.00

Agreed, but for stage 1 it won't hurt and has already helped. Definitely will be doing the interior later this summer, after the floors get a repaint top and bottom, new sound proofing, & new mat - under seat too. Thanks for looking out for me I'll keep it dry and observe closely for anything untoward. I like your idea of sound mapping the interior to find out where all the noise is coming from. Maybe Paul's iPad app can do that too?

There two takeaways for me. 1.) Your tuck is now value added. 2.) Your hubcaps have an after life, now on my truck, thanks! BTW - Hubcaps are on my to-do list; a little, what do they call it? Oh yea, "refreshing".

Ya know, this all started when I had to take up the floorboards to reach the tranny end of the broken speedometer cable. Well guess what, the speedo quit a block later after having buttoned everything up Unlike Paul, I didn’t measure the sound levels with my iPad. Maybe I will now? Hey @pflaming, what app was that you used? Jan Baby (the wife) and I swear my Frost King job has made Rox noticeably quieter. Putting down a bead of caulk where each panel overlaps the metal of another was genius too, though not my idea. Don’t recall who I ripped that one off of

You won't believe my genius. At least I thought it genius. After watching a dozen YouTube videos on using sound mitigating aluminum backed self stick foam, either Peal and Seal or Frost King Foam and Foil - Bought a roll of Frost King for $18 and change from Home Depot. Here is the kicker. I put the stuff on the under side! I hope it is genious.

How is the search coming? I have my door panels intact, though a little raggedy (1950 B2B). Anything I can do with 'em to help?

For a few hours?! I would expect to spend the night. Air BnB?

I think it is a great idea and I'm anxious to see the difference. No, not for the sake of adjustment, for the sake of quiet.

I was checking out Yvonne's website. Some amazing work there. After seeing your photographs and Her gallery I think there is a resemblance. You should buy and frame one for your memoirs.

And I didn't realize you can thin to 5%, nor did I realize it comes is silver! I'm saving my can of POR15 for the frame. Black, not silver I used Permatex Rust Treatment on all the metal. Not sure what the purpose is. Reading the can doesn't make it clear, but it came highly recommended from a member here.

I was hoping that parts ordering would be the only thing I suck at but it turns out I suck at painting too! My prep is decent and I get the paint on nice. There was a time in the 80's where I made surf and sail boards for a living; Dave Johnson's right hand man in Goleta California. It was his expert tutelidge that helped me garner a first place finish at the West Coast Shootout surf sailing competition held at Jalama State Beach Park many years ago... I digress Finished stripping the toe boards and floor pans and was going to brush on POR 15. Upon reading the can I changed my mind. Says you can paint right on the rust! I stripped 95% of the rust, 100 % from the toe panels. Since my plan is to drive it to the summer car show and display it as a "survivor" I now will leave the tops unpainted and just coat the bottoms with Rustoleum gray matte. If you have a keen eye, you may notice the uppermost toe board is upside down in relation to the other two. Seriously, what's my problem? Today I hope to re-strip it and paint the correct side

Start your search at http://carcomplaints.com. I recall the 2001-2003 Ford F150's to be among the more trouble free.

Spray your favorite lube on it. I used white lithium grease in a spray can. It does such a great job keeping my garage door closer whiet, it should work on the truck. It did! I got rid of the final "clank" with the DCM rubber pedal seals.

Well, there goes all the fun. Now what will I do?

Pedal rubber seals. DCM Classis has them for 12 bucks or so. https://dcmclassics.com/brake-parts/237-da-140-brake-clutch-pedal-draft-seals.html?search_query=Pedal+seals&results=2

Great story @kendall, Jan Baby liked it a lot. Got the bench assembled and the shop light hung. Bought 1 double LED fixture at Costco for $20. Thought I would buy a few more if they were any good. I think it is great but Costco had sold them out in a week.

Uh, put the Ferd in D and giver it a little gas (very little). Job done.

My wife and Roxanne are good friends. I'll hear my wife singing early in the morning; "Roxxxxxannnne...” Bought a new work bench today and got to roll Roxanne out of the garage to make room for the assembly and install. Our driveway is just steep enough that it would take 4 or 5 guys to keep her from rolling down into the street. Clever me, I positioned the Ferd F150 behind her and pulled Rox back into the big truck, then backed the Ferd down the driveway with Rox rolling along, butted to the grill. Remember, no floorboards and so no gas pedal right now The point of the story is how great it was to see Roxanne in full sunlight. Put me in a happy place. Seeing that both rear wheel cylinders were leaking brake fluid made me happy too. Ordered a 3 legged hub puller of substance

Yup, open the damper for soft ride. Close for firm. When I drive over the tracks at the nearby RR crossing, my head hits the roof no matter what setting I choose. That and left hand lug nuts, and maybe the drives haft emergency brake is the dusmbest, ah er, most charming thing Dodge has to endear their owners. Kudos on your good find.

Great stuff. Who knew? I'll head to Ace and check it out.

My floor pans are still lying around the yard and garage. I've been too busy working for a living or going skiing on my time off. Have to make hay while the sun shines and fresh tracks when the snow flies. I was going to paint the floorboards with POR, ERGO black, but the more I've thought about it, yellow would be cool. I like the yellow wheels and think having the same accent color for the floorboards, then put some kind of black or dark gray floor mats over them. When I wire wheeled the rust off I uncovered a thin yellow base with a heavy black over it. Guessing that somebody once before cleaned and painted the floorboards; perhaps they were originally yellow? I like the yellow of the front wheel, not the darker more saturated yellow of the rear wheel. After a lot of digging here I've discovered that 1950 wheels came in yellow or black. Trying to find the original paint color has been a nightmare. The existing pages from whatever manuals have been seriously degraded by age. I tried to revive a couple to get a better idea of what I might be looking for. I can't tell if it's Sun Yellow, Victoria Yellow or some other yellow. I see it around the forum here and elsewhere and it has been heavily discussed. Even so, today you can't find a product code that resolves to something that can be purchased and applied. Zeke has a formula. Looked like a foreign language, not being a paint scientist and all. Zeke's Formula: Quote: Here is the formula for the original cream color wheels: YS410N CC:H Chromapremier SS Alt: 1 801J HSWHITE 154.8 843J Bright Yellow 245.1 807J LS Black 289.4 853J Red Orange 293.9 52320N Binder 499.3 52330N Balancer 526.0 I have no idea what it means, but it supposedly came from Don Bunn. I had it mixed at my local CarQuest store and sprayed it on my sandblasted wheels using an HVLP gun. You have to mix it with two other ingredients first - resin and hardener, I think. The wheels look great; I compared the color to the inside of a spare wheel and it is an exact match to the original color. Zeke 1950 Truck Colors Chart: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/color/imgcol/_00005.htm ggdad51's version: http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/ggdad1951/media/bWVkaWFJZDo0MjE3NDQ0Mw==/?ref= I'm totally confused at this point and have no idea what to do. I took one to the local paint shop and had it color matched - allowing for a little fade over time. This is where I ended up. Too dark and saturated IMHO, but it will have to do

Yeah, those are nice and a great idea, thanks

I knew somebody here would know.

Yellow is my new favorite color.

Following up. Bought another Harbor Freight C clamp and this one did the job. Funny, didn't have to crank it - Modest pressure and POP! Pin broke free and slid out. Maybe the first clamp and PBBlaster helped?