keithb7

Rad had not been worked on since I bought it in May. It does appear that at some point in the last few decades it has been serviced. I have no idea when. Maybe I will put it and get it serviced. That sure won't hurt anything. Then I know I'm good there.

Hi kind folks. I was out test driving my 53 Windsor Deluxe tonight, after some recent major engine work. While I was in the engine last week, I installed a new 180F thermostat. I have drained and flushed the coolant a few times. It's coming out looking pretty good. The rad seems to be doing ok. I not sure what temperature drop I should be seeing from upper to lower tank. Looking down in the rad, it seems pretty clean. I have run 2 bottles of coolant flush through it so far in June. The car is still new to me, so it's full history is not known. I am considering pulling out the water distribution tube. I have no idea how clean or plugged it might be. I have a new water distribution tube here, all ready to go. Here is a video I took after climbing a decent hill tonight. About 1000 ft elevation gain. The temp gauge got pretty high. Here I am taking some measurements with my Digital Infrared Thermometer. Ambient air temp was about 80F. Comments from those with experience is appreciated. https://youtu.be/ZeyG_46U6CA

I get it 40desoto. I too have other hobbies. My problem is I have so much that I want to do in life. When I get into a hobby, I go all in. Pouring tons of time and energy into it as it brings me so much pleasure. Right now wrenching on my old car is really motivating to me.

The only regret after a proper and thorough rebuild, would be selling the car. If you are planning to keep the vehicle that the engine goes in, do it right. If this is a pleasure car, driven for fun, not a daily commuter, it'll probably outlive you. Life is often measured by great memories. Decades from now you won't remember the $500 you saved today. You will remember all the great times you had in your reliable, fun, vintage car.

Wow. I am both amazed and humbled by the work you have done to the car. I really, really like the styling of this 3 window Dodge! Is the hood longer than average? Or is the trunk just shorter, due to the small cab?

Thanks Worden. It's my first vinatge car. Now I am discovering all these vintage Chyslers that I had no idea about. Hard to pick a favourite. So many great cars. I love the L6. So simple. So smooth. I want at least one from every 5 years. 1928, 1933, 1938, etc. Right up to my '53. I got one. A good start!

More fun: https://youtu.be/IUHH5BdFtvk

The Brakes work very well and appear set up good. They are dragging a little at times. I estimate the master cylinder relief port hole may have some scale in it possibly. New full rebuild kit going in.

It's a great problem to have. My 18 year old is in love with "My" '53 Windsor. He calls it "Our" car. He loves to take it out at every opportunity. I am under constant pressure to keep it up and running. Improving reliability. When I bought the car in May this spring, he was with me to go view and inspect it. He was the first to drive it when we test drove it at seller's house. He enjoys working on it too, under my direction. He washes and vacuums it at any opportunity too. I can't complain. He does not have the same level of mechanical experience as I did at 18. Between working full time this summer, chasing girls, and maintaining an active social life, he's surely not around much. Lol. It seems I can't get through everything repair/maintenance-wise, as quick as I would like to. As soon as one thing is done, he's asking for they keys again. I am slowly getting there with all the little things on the car. "The '53", he calls it, was down for a month while I did the valve grind. He was involved and helped. Upon first flash up at the end of the job, he had a massive grin. I let him do the first test drive. He's doomed. I'm feeding him vintage car adrenalin at every opportunity. This weekend I think I'll postpone the next job, (master cylinder rebuild) and let him drive it. I'll tackle that over a few evenings next week. I'll be scheduling him to join me on the project. He needs to know this stuff, as some day he wants the car to be his. In addition to my massive rolling tool chest. He'a going to be waiting a long time. I'm 46. I'm certainly enjoying our car time together while he's still around. He was saying last week, "Dad, the '53 is the best thing you ever bought."... I laughed .

I hear ya. I'm trying to round up the courage to stick wrenches in the moving parts, with a super hot exhaust manifold in the way. It's not a slam dunk even with the engine not running. Maybe I should invest in some special long wrenches.

Thanks folks, it is a head turner for sure. More lessons learned I thought I would share: Initially I roughly set the valves and the car ran. So I warmed it up in the driveway idling. Then set the valves again. The car was not at full operating temp. Unknown to me at the time, I was also setting the lash incorrectly. I was turning the crank and adjusting several valves that appeared fully seated to me. I'd record what ones I'd set, turn the crank a little, then adjust a few more valves and then I fired it up. The engine was running so smooth. It was so nice and quiet. I proceeded to drive around the neighborhood. Climbed some hills got it good and warm. I stopped at a buddie's house and visited for a minute. The car was idling, now but I could hear a miss. In my mind I was thinking I had not properly set the timing yet. We get to talking more, and he invites me inside for a few minutes. I hesitated, and shut off the engine. 15 mins later I went to leave, the car would not start no how. I screwed with distributor timing a little. No improvement. I pulled the air filter, looked down the throttle body, and flipped the throttle linkage. Yup, getting fuel. Then I got to thinking...I quickly surmised that I screwed up the valvelash somehow. Too tight and the exhaust valves won't seat! I was confident that in the morning, when the car was cold, it would easily start. Living in a hilly area, I the coasted my car within 300 ft of my driveway. For the heck if it, while coasting I put clutch in, put tranny in D, released clutch and tried to jump start it. That does nothing it seems. Engine does not turn. Now out of any downhill roads, I hooked up a tow strap and towed it the last 300 ft home. We pushed her into the garage for the night and I dug in on some education. I watched the Chrysler Master Mechanic episode from 1950 on valves. It taught me about the quieting ramps on the cam lobes. It taught me that the tallest part of the cam lobe should be straight down, away from the tappet, when setting valve lash. This happens when the piston is at TDC for each particular cylinder. So only one set of valves, on one piston, gets set, then you turn the engine to the next firing order TDC, and do that set. 6 times you must turn the crank and set a pair of valves, to do it right. Makes sense. Yet now I'm left scratching my head. I can tell when #1 and #6 is at TDC, by inserting a long pin at pipe plug hole above 6, on the head. Yet how can I tell the rest of the cylinders are at TDC? I go to bed thinking about this. In the morning before work, I flash the engine up. Stone cold. Started instantly. Gotta be valves, but I have to go to work darn it. I get home at 4 and dig right in. A little more head scratching...I came to this conclusion: By following the firing order, and knowing that every 120 degrees of crank revolution, another piston fires I could follow everything along. So I set #1 at TDC. Set valves on #1. Grab fan turn 120 degrees. Set #5. Turn engine 120 degree set next. Repeat for all, thru entire firing order. I definitely found several valves too tight. Especially exhaust valves. I reset them all. 9 exhaust, 11 intake, cold. I flashed her up and she still purred quietly. I repeated the same neighborhood drive tonight. Its hot out too. About 100 F. Got everything nice and warm and drove right into my own driveway before shutting it off. See? I'm getting smarter every day. Lol. Car flashed up no problem! The engine fires up instantly as soon as the starter gives it the slightest turn. I think now I've got this. I'm still going to wait a while before I reinstall the inner fender well window. Just in case. If you are green like me, watch the Chrysler videos on YT. They are excellent on the theory behind WHY, we need to do a repair on a car. Not just HOW to do a repair.

Great thread. I am following.

Stock '53 fully open. No complaints. I just did a valve job at home, never took the hood off. Sure, I bumped my noggin a few times. Only on the hood latch. Dang that hurts.

Some follow up: Definitely more torque. Easier starting. No hesitation. More power all around. Running cool, and its 98F here right now. Very happy with the results.

Very happy to say that the old girl is running like I dreamt it would! I actually completed my work last night but decided against flashing it up. Incase there was a problem then I'd be up late troubleshooting, disappointed, and get a lousy nights sleep. No such worry was needed. After some good cranking time to prime up the fuel system and fill the float bowl, she flashed right up. No more exhaust noise back through the carb intake from #6 intake being stuck open for so long. She purrs nicely. Next I will warm the engine up to full operating temp and re-set my valves again. Spec is hot at .008 intake .010 exhaust. I set them cold at .010 and .012. They tick a little cold so I figure I'll do them again one more time when hot. No sign of any oil burn so far. I'm a happy camper. I also plan to re-test the compression and see where it sits compared to before I tore it down. I can post my findings at that time. Thanks for all your help here kinds folks. Another one, back on the road. He she is, just coming out after a long month in the garage. I'm grateful to have a cool air conditioned garage. Hot as hades round here lately.

Great car! Your son has a real gem there. He's very fortunate to have a Dad that can also seems to love the old cars, and supports him.

Buttoning up my 1953 Windsor Deluxe L265 . I had a thought about the coolant hoses and their routing. The long hose, traced with a yellow line, goes from the water pump to the cab heater. Then same coolant flows out from the cab heater back to the block, to the brass tee as indicated by the red arrow, at the back of the head. My car will not see cold weather. The previous owner had the brass tee, with a tap on it, closed shut. So coolant was not circulating through the cab heater. Maybe I have it backwards? Maybe coolant flows from the brass fitting at the rear of the head, to the cab heater, then back to the water pump via the long hose? Not sure. At any rate, what I was thinking was, seeing as I never use the cab heater, why not route the hose from the water pump, directly to the back of the head to the brass fitting. Open the T valve in the fitting, and help circulate the coolant at the back of the head better. With that rear brass fitting closed off, there surely is less movement of coolant there, where the engine needs it the most. Anyone see any reason no to do this? I am thinking it will help remove heat better at the rear of the head. Thoughts? Thx, Keith

I am in agreement with other comments. That valve seat will not seal. I believe there is a stellite valve seat in your block. Interference fit. Any more pics of the block with the head off? I am interested in hearing what would cause this crack. I would guess heat.

All valves are now sealed up tight. Reassembly is now coming along. Thought I'd share a pic before the head goes on. Feels good...So far so good.

Without a valve spring compressor tool, a pry bar can be used to remove spring retainers.. For one spring only it's not too bad, but for 12 it'll drive you nuts. I cut up some small blocks of wood to use as leverage I'll work for removal, but reassembly is at least 99% impossible. I am interested in hearing a little more details on some of the points brought up here: Related to flat head engines: How could you remove or install a spring without removing the valve? Does it matter which end of the spring goes to toward top? Thx

Yikes. Thats is a lot of crap that came out of your block.

I believe that, for someone with plenty of experience. For a first timer, I recommend testing for leaks.

@40desoto is the engine still in your car? I would refrain from re-installing the head, before testing for valve sealing. The playdough dam mentioned works but is not necessary. I found that a large syringe, filled with kerosene worked well. Make sure valves are completely closed tight with springs installed. Back off the tappet adjustments. With valves fully closed, wiggle tappet up and down to to ensure its not in contact with valve stem. Drinble a good amount of kerosene around the valve edge where it meets the block. Keep some paper towel in place to stop any kerosene from flowing into the adjacent valve that shares the same port. It does not take long to see the results. Within a few moments you'll see kerosene flow down into the port if the valve is leaky. Having the inner fender window removed, and wheel off so you can look into the port, is a big help here. My understanding is once the head is torqued down, the metal gasket has done it's job, once. Removing the head again to lap valves again, in my opinion means a new head gasket. This why I prefer to ensure valve sealability before I re-install the head.

Based on my experience, a wet/dry compression test is a good start. Then pull head if needed, inspect valve seats where possible. Pull valves for a further inspection. Consider lapping compound to be a final polish. Deeper pitting in in the seat or valve surface area leads to a further grind. If you are unsure, you may want to start by lapping a few valves and looking at the 2 surfaces to see how they align. How wide is the groove on the valve face after some lapping? The information post above here, and the illustrations were helpful to me. In my case, with a bent valve and another that was not seating, plus valve wear, it seemed clear to me that all new valves would be a good solution. I then did not have to grind the valves. With labor prices today at a machine shop, it made little sense to me to have the valves re-cut.

9 out of 12 valves are sealed tight. 3 others I need to remove and spend some more time lapping. First time doing this task, I'm ok with that. I'm getting there.