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keithb7

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Everything posted by keithb7

  1. Cool car. As soon as I saw your pics it reminded me of a local Plymouth I recently discovered. This one is lawn art currently.
  2. Drain rad. Pull head. Free up cylinders. While pistons are enjoying their oil bath, release valve retainers and do an inspection on all valve seating sufaces. If you’re lucky valves only need some lapping. Seal ‘em up tight! Clean plugs cap and rotor. By now hopefully engine turns over. Reinstall head. Crank it over and take compression test. If over 90 across all, get some fuel in there. Refill rad. Fire engine up! Proceed to kill all mosquitos in your area. Set timing and next thing you know, you’re our cruising with the stock 6 flathead...Hopefully. Thats certainly a lot easier than swapping in a V8.
  3. That Air Stream makes the ‘46 to ‘48 models look like a toy by comparison. It’s a work of art! Stunning.
  4. This wets one's appetite: http://www.imperialclub.com/IML-specific/Spotlight/Sept03/index.htm http://www.imperialclub.com/Articles/48CarCollector/index.htm Buying lottery tickets today!
  5. Good vids Warden. Got me all worked up. Love it. Only car in town palmersparts? Only car in 5,000 miles maybe!
  6. I can't say how, nor why. The 1946 to 1948 Crown Imperial Limousine has me smitten. What a car. Huge with a straight 8. The bonnet may actually consume more than 50% of the car length. LOL. So few in number it seems. Luxury at it's best in the post war era. I have been doing research on line and am learning that there really seems to be very few of these cars to be seen. Let alone had. I found the Crown Imperial Group web site. There is lots of good information on there, however it appears to be losing momentum. Updates are old and far and few between it seems. Seeking out You-Tube videos is fruitless to date. I can't find one video of that straight 8 purring. Nor a walk around of the Limo. I learned that between 1946 to 1948 750 were made. I believe that included all Crown Imperials, not just the Limo. I would guess the actual number of Limos is much less. The Limo has hydraulic windows and the glass separator between driver and passengers. Maybe more? Recently I have found 1 only for sale. In Norway. Its on Hemmings. They were asking $30K US. It was recently reduced to $25K. A little too rich for me. I'd sure like to own one though. Talk about classy.. Anyone here actually seen one in person? Sat in the back seat? Better yet, maybe someone here owned one? Tell us more about it. I'd like to hear all about it. Are these cars rare as hen's teeth? Early along here in my research, it appears so. Please share you encounters, if you've had the pleasure. Here's the one in Norway:
  7. My wife and I are moving. We sold our house and found a nice home we like on half an acre. The house has a 2 car garage and plenty of parking on a large asphalt driveway. The 2 car garage is not going to cut it for me. We contacted the local city development department to confirm, we can build a shop. Up to 1500 or so square feet. . The max roof height we could have is 16 feet. I am looking for input from those who have built a shop. I have some ideas but no real life experience building one. So far here is what I am thinking: I'm thinking 3 bays. Centre bay with a taller roof line so I have room more clearance for a hoist. Lightly sloped floor and drains so in the Canadian winter, any melting snow can easily drain away. Tie into natural gas line and have a forced air heater in garage. Water and small hot water tank. A laundry type sink for hand washing. No need for a toilet. House is close by. 240V available for welding and hydraulic hoist 3 bays with insulated garage doors Florescent lighting through out Few windows. Not needed. Keep the thieves out. Does it make sense to water proof the first 4 feet of the walls from ground up? In the winter time, if needed could wash items in garage and dry? 4 post lift or two post? Which is better? Why? I found a pic of this garage on the internet. We like the look of it. The centre bay seems like a good choice for a hoist. Here's my property. We're moving in soon. I am thinking bottom right hand corner of photo is where I'd build the shop, as shown. Pulling into shop doors by turning right. Your comments on what you wish maybe you had done different are appreciated. What have I overlooked? I don't think I need a paint booth or a man cave. Just a beer fridge in there and room for cars and tools! Thanks in advance. - Keith
  8. I’m enjoying the stories posted as this thread unfolds. It’s true, old guys rule. The older guys are certainly the majority here on this site. Lucky for us your stories are documented for future generations to read. I suppose in the grand scheme of things you’re all still just a bunch of pups. Lol. I’d love to hear from some previous assembly line workers in Detroit through the 40’s. Or maybe an engineer at Chrysler in 1945 or so. Sadly I suspect there’s few left. Speaking of this, are there any good books anyone recommends, around the vintage car subject? Say 1955 and earlier? Some good reads would be interesting. Thx.
  9. I started this thread and set up the poll. If you cannot vote it is possible I suppose, you may have already voted. I can't seem to modify the poll at this time. Or fix it. Sorry. - Keith
  10. It appears something is awry with the rear wheel brake cylinders. The seals I took out are on the left in the pics here. The new seals that arrived are on the right. I happened to order some new cylinder piston seals from Bernbaum, as well as a Raybestos kit from Rock Auto. Both suppliers provided the fatter larger seals. The seals should be the same for the front upper cylinder and the rear on my '53 Windsor. They worked on the front upper just fine. Same as what came out. The rears, are very tight. I can get them in, not easily. They are not moving easily. Seems weird as the bores of the cylinder measured in spec. Hmm. Maybe at some point in the past 64 years someone installed different rear cylinders. Or maybe different pistons. I suppose I should maybe just order a couple of complete assembled new rear wheel cylinders. Then I should have the right parts.
  11. Having fun with my shop manuals from 1953. I have acquired the full 1953 Chrysler Shop Manual, and the Preliminary Manual. I also have the 1953-1954 Manual that covers Chrysler, DeSoto, Plymouth and Dodge. It seems to be a good one. It's quite thick. I also have access to and have borrowed a Chrysler Parts Manual for 1953 year. A local contact gave me an official Passenger Shop Manual from 1949. It has some of the best diagrams of them all. Glad to see that many of the diagrams from 1949 also suit my car. All are official Mopar books. Between all these books, information is hit and miss. Some diagrams and info is just plain not there. The info may be listed in the index, yet not printed in the book anywhere. No pages missing. Only 1 of the service books, the 1949 year has an actual diagram of the brake and clutch linkage. It would appear that you can never be too many manuals from different years for these Mopar era cars. Do some of you have quite a collection of parts and service manuals?
  12. Thanks folks. All I am changing is the oil pan. I'll get under there and have a better look at what this front support is.
  13. Can anyone explain to me what this is all about? It came in the box with my Fel-Pro oil pan gasket set.
  14. I got mine here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,1948 My pan came off pretty easy. I used gasket remover spray and a scraper on the block . Worked well. Most of the gasket came off in large pieces. I am putting my pan back on soon. Just letting paint cure here.
  15. Digging around in my '53 tonight I found a piece of paper under the rear bench seat. It is a Vehicle Registration for state of Massachusetts. Dated 1969. A 1953 Chrysler Sedan. Owner was Bert H. Webster of Bulkeley Road, Littleton Mass.01460. Registration fee was $6. I googled Bert to find his obituary, date 2009. He was born in 1929 and seems he lived most of his life in Littleton. He served 4 years in the Airforce during the Korean conflict. After his service, he worked as a truck driver his whole life. Pretty cool to find this...
  16. I was out cruising some backroads recently not too far from home. I found this house number holder. It made me think of you Worden18. 3303 of Shuswap Road. Not a Meadowbrook, but has similar lines. This is the Plymouth Cranbrook. I am unsure of the year. Maybe someone can tell us what year it is.
  17. My understanding is once the oil pan sump has been cleaned out, and the filter housing, ect, of sludge, we can then run detergent based modern conventional oils. I have a question about the oil pick up screen cover. I pried it off, cleaned it out and re-installed the cover. There seems to be a ramp or angle in the cover, on one part only. Does this ramp have to point in a certain direction? Ramp to rear? Or does it not matter? Thanks.
  18. So you want to dabble in the old car scene hey? Welcome to your first classic car. LOL. I already swept away one pile of this 50 year old road grime, dust, oil and grease. That was just the stuff I pried off to find nuts on the tie rod ends and steering banana link. This last effort was just the crud up around the torque converter housing and rear area of the oil pan. From the bottom side, you can't tell there's an oil pump down there. So much scum built up. This oil pan of mine has been leaking for years and years I estimate. Add in the crankcase down draft tube, it all piles up and sticks in every possible place down there. It's going to look so nice when I'm done. Good times, chipping away hard tar.
  19. #1 bearing looks pretty decent. The bearings read: Clevite 3 77 CB 90P. Any idea what that means? A little bit of some something tiny went around there once. The bearing did it's job well. Back side:
  20. My pan had maybe a 1/4" of sludge only in the lowest part of the pan. Going forward I'm thinking I'll run modern Rotella 10W30 with the 1200 PPM Zinc. Have any of you folks ever pulled your oil pump apart to get a good look at wear? Was thinking about that today too. Lots of thoughts. Also go to thinking about those little pieces of tin I found in the screen. It could have come from a torque part as well. The engine oil goes through the torque and back. Oil goes into the oil crank passages at the middle main bearing it seems. It was suggested if I wanted to have a look at a few rod bearings, go with 1 and 6. Furthest away from the oil pump. If anything is going on with oil pressure, wear will start there most likely. That makes sense.
  21. Pan cleaned up well today in the huge dishwasher (aka parts washer) at work. I'd like to remove the remaining external rust then paint the outside. What do you recommend for rust removal? Fine sandpaper? Steel wool? Scotch-brite? I have access to a glass bead machine, but would rather not. Those glass beads, you just can't get them all out. They find themselves in every little nook & cranny. They kill internal engine parts fast, when they later become dislodged.
  22. Here are a couple of money-shots for those who'd like to have a peek. It's been a lot of years since I have been into the bottom end a car engine. Considering its 1940's design and limitations, I am thinking it looks pretty clean. I was expecting a lot worse.
  23. Tool in this pic worked well. The pan came out easily with 1 tie rod off and then turn the steering far right to the stops. Inside of my engine looks a lot better than I expected. Camshaft looks great. Someone changed the oil often. A little sludge in the bottom of the pan. Not bad. The cork in the u-section of the pan, front and rear was rock hard. Once I get this all cleaned up and resealed I think a good bit of the oil drips will stop. I pulled the pickup screen and popped off the cover. I found a few very small pieces of that I think is tin. Bearing lead-tin overlay maybe? Not much 2 or three small pieces that I could easily stab and split with a small jeweler's screw driver. This could be from an earlier engine rebuild? Who knows. I can't say for sure. Engine oil pressure is great. Now I am wondering if I should consider a full bearing roll-in.
  24. I just picked up a new tie rod separator. Off to go try it shortly. Tapping on the oil pan it sounds like there might be something loose in bottom. Yikes. We'll see what treasures lay in the sludge. More to come soon.
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