keithb7

A local theatre production asked for a few 50’s cars for their big show tonite, Grease. The show sold out with a packed house. The big three showed up. ‘55 Ford Crownline. ‘55 Pontiac Laurentian and my ‘53 Chrysler.

Saw my my first vintage Dodge truck at a car show today. A 1945. It was awful. Avery piece of chrome was painted along with the body. All satin black. Interior gutted with seats and gauges from a 90's mustang I think. It was a bit of a let down as I had hoped to see a nice stocker. No such luck. The show was, as most are, riddled with chopped, chipped, french'd & tubb'd cars. Oh well each their own. The car that was my favourite today was a 1961 Chrysler Imperial LeBaron hard top. Wow. What a beast. All stock and beautiful. I will be keeping a sharp eye for more '39 - '47 era Dodge trucks! Wife is in agreement, they are so very nice.

The original axle and bearing was certainly stubborn and required more effort to pull out. I guess the old bearing cone gets corroded and held in place. It was a lot harder to pull than the one I recorded in the video above. The video showed pulling the axle, with the new bearing installed. I was pulling it a few times to set up shims and measure end play. It indeed did come out really easy.

@Bobby198412 I decided to record a few of the other axle procedures that I learned from members here along the way. This was my first time going into the axle as well. Here is an outer grease seal video if you are interested: https://youtu.be/E4FiF6h5mtQ

Here is what @Dodgeb4ya suggested and it worked well for me. No harm done. https://youtu.be/UOni7Udv7jU

Did as you suggested @Dodgeb4ya. Re-measured. Still zero clearance. Added back in a .005 shim on one side only. Tightened up and gave the axles another rap with a hammer. Now I have about .0025 to .003 end play thou on each axle. Seems like I am there. Reassembling the rest now. Thanks again.

Thanks Dodge. I will give the axles a dead blow, re-check clearances and report back.

Shimming has been a learning experience. Using the same shims I removed, I get about .010 end play. On each axle. Too much. Spec is 3-8 thou. I read that I am to remove equal amounts of shim stock on each side of the axle. The smallest shims I have are .005 each. So I remove one each from each side. Upon re-assembly I get zero clearance. Makes sense as the math adds up. I have no more shims. Am I ok to finish up the install at 0.000 clearance, then once everything settles in place, I'll likely gain a couple thou clearance? I could re-check it in a week or so, see how things settle in? Keith

New Made in the USA Timken bearngs and seals finally arrived. Bearings are now installed on the axles. I rounded up a piece of round stock to use as a seal installer. My plan is tomorrow I will be pushing all this back together. Hopefully, fingers crossed I will be cruising by that evening.

I won't disagree. I seem to suffer from "not being able to pay someone to fix something that I can learn to do". A Every time I do a new job I learn more, and 9 times out of 10 I save more than enough money to pay for any tools needed. The next time I put the tools to use again, then it really feels good. The experience to me, is invaluable. I know this is not everyone's mantra. There are times when I look around at all the vehicles, mechanical toys with engines, lawn mowers, leaf blowers, weed whackers, and more around here, I second guess what the heck l I am doing. Trying to keep everything maintained and well serviced. I get 'er done. It keeps me out of trouble while my neighbours hit the gym and buy a new car every 5 years. LOL. I digress, it makes me happy.

The ultra rare vintage professional mechanic...That would draw people in with old carbureted cars for sure. Folks with plenty of cash to spend. What is the hourly dealer shop rate these days in those parts? I'll guess $140/hr. Its about that around here. So I, like so many others turn the wrenches as much as possible. Finding this site has been an invaluable source of info and support. The DeSoto does look real nice. Glad to see it's being taken care of.

No, the rear differential stays as is. The order of events goes like this: Jack up car. Remove Wheel Remove Axle nut Remove drum using drum puller Remove axle shaft key way Remove brake assy Disconnect Wheel Cylinder brake line. Remove brake backing plate nuts Remove backing plate. Place drum on axle shaft without key way in place. Thread axle nut on a few turns. Use drum hub as a dead blow-hammer to pull out axle and bearing assy. Place axle assambly on the ground. Use 2 finger attachment on slide hammer and pull out inner axle seal. There is nothing keeping the axle in the diff. It will slide out with a little effort. It does not have to be lined up a certain way when re-installed. Just slide it back in. Seal installer or some other type of tool will be needed to install seals. Perhaps a proper sized socket will work.

HI folks, I do love the old Mopars. I own a '53 Chrysler and cherish it. My wife keeps hinting at me that she likes the old pick ups. That's a big opportunity in my opinion, to get another old Mopar! I asked her to pick out what she likes, based on internet photos. I told her to search old Dodge truck, or Fargo truck. I see a pattern of red truck photos coming back to me with headlight pods on the big round fenders. Side step rails and pop-out windows. Yes!!! She also likes the patina look, but not required. If I were ready with more space I'd be all over it right now to find one to purchase. I like stock. I like the flat heads and I am pretty comfortable working on them. I know little about Mopar truck offerings, but have been doing research in an effort to be educated when the time is right. I see that there was a relatively short run of Plymouth trucks. I assume quite rare these days. Meaning $$$$? Also parts like chrome and trim especially, may be hard to find? I have a few questions: I like the look of the 1939 to 1947 era Dodge 1/2T truck. What series is that? WC? Is that one series across that span? Looking at internet photos it appears so. What exactly does the Pilot House series mean? Is this just the 5 window cabs? Was this is special order cab? What years? No hurry something like this would certainly do just fine. Appreciate the info. Thanks, Keith

No problem Worden. I understand your frustrations over losing summer driving time in the old car. I too am down now as I await new wheel bearings and seals to arrive. Been a week now. I'm getting ants in my pants. I could have ordered local and paid twice or more, than the on-line order I placed. It's odd as sometimes I order on-line and the parts arrive in 2 business days. This order, so far has been a full week. I guess this is part of the charm of owning these old cars. The anticipation of parts arriving.

See text here taken from service manual. Here it addresses that big rear plug.

Worden are you referring to item #6, large rear plug fitting? See the seal at #19. That seals it. I read in a factory manual that this plug is not serviceable. It is factory sealed. I am not sure that there is a seal readily available for it. Is this your original master cylinder leaking, that you re-sealed? Or did you buy a whole new cylinder assembly? - K

There are some instructions here. I got great results while checking valve clearances with engine running. http://p15-d24.com/topic/642-adjusting-valves/

@bamfordsgarageThis is wonderful. Then surely you will take the Hurley Pass! Low gears and good breaks are required though. Especially as you drop back down into Pemberton Meadows. If you look at Google Earth and find Bralorne and Goldbridge you can see the valley and the Hurley Pass road. It runs aside Mount Dix, Grouty Peak and Face Mtn. Follow the valley SW and end up in Pemberton Meadows. If you fall in love and swing back home through the area again, be sure to research what locals call the "Power Line Road" from D'arcy to Seton Portage. This is another breath taking pass that is not for the faint of heart. You guys look and sound like you are up for it. After Seton Portage you wind back up the mountain to end up at the east end of Carpenter Lake again. Here is a good layout of the Powerline Road I mentioned, and the surroundings. The road is along the left side of Anderson lake in this image. Compliments of Google Earth. Let us know if you make it. You'll be passing through Kamloops. Let me know when. Perhaps we can have a Tim's and I can check out your Speedster! - K Here is a view of the Hurley Pass road as you leave Gold Bridge, heading toward Pemberton Meadows:

Carpenter Lake is in my 'hood! Been there many times. It is a beautiful spot. One of BC's best. If anyone goes there be sure to go to Bralorne to the old mine museum. Go find the old mine and what is left of the mill. It's fun to rummage around. There are a few 30's/40's cars there shot up full of lead and left for dead. One of my favourite areas of BC out there. Enjoy. https://www.slrd.bc.ca/recreation-culture/heritage-museums/museums/bralorne-museum https://www.travel-british-columbia.com/cariboo-chilcotin/chilcotin/gold-bridge/ Looking at the pics above it appears that the car scrap shown is near the west end of the lake bed. Where "Gold Bridge" is labeled on the map. You can stop for ice creme in Gold Bridge too on your way to Bralorne. @bamfordsgarage will you be in that 1924 speedster? Gold Bridge is mostly a dead end road and you go back out to Lillooet to get back to civilization and pavement. There is a logging road called the "Hurley Pass" that takes you from Gold Bridge to Pemberton Meadows, a community also shown on the above map. Then you are on pavement again on Hw99, to Whistler. Hurley Pass takes you through a beautiful forest valley. Its quite rugged and remote. I am not sure I would attempt it alone in a modern car, let alone your 1924. I have done it a few times on an Enduro Motorbike. I would consider driving it in a truck, but not sure I'd drive it alone in your car. I am sure it can be done if you are into an adventure, are self sufficient and into possible hard labour. If you want more details we may be able to help. - K

If I do decide to pull the diff, what does it weigh? Laying under the car jacked up could pose handling problems. I have some decent jacks but nut sure they can cradle the carrier housing. Any idea on the weight? Tips on handling it at home, car jacked up in the garage? Thanks.

Very nice car. I have yet to see one in person around here. I heard a comment that Chrysler engineers spent way more time building an awsome car, compared to the designers who worked on the final appearance of the car. I am not sure I agree with that. I think the car looks great. It was so far ahead of its time. Today car makers spend huge money studying market trends. To ensure they bring a new product tp market that will likely succeed. In the 1930’s was that even on the radar?

So if a person was so inclined to re-seal the diff carrier to banjo housing, I suppose now would be the time to do it. Am I right in thinking that: Wheels off. Pull drums. Remove brakes and backing plate. Slide axles out. Then drive shaft is disconnected. Drain diff oil. Unbolt circle of bolts that mounts diff carrier in place. Lift out diff carrier assy and then install new gasket? Then reassemble everything. Set up brakes and bleed. Its a fairly lengthy list of work to get to that gasket if I’m correct. I’m ¾ of the way there now I figure.

I am getting excited about an upcoming local car show. I’ll be leaving my ‘53 Chrysler at home as i’ll be driving a 1928 Dodge Brothers. Its pretty well all original and stock. I helped get it back to safe operating condition last winter. I volunteered to drive and sit with it at the upcoming show. I must say I’m genuinely excited to drive it. Love these era of Dodges. Thanks for sharing.

Left side on top, right on bottom in pic. The right side was in worse shape. Am I seeing some early signs of heat dis-coloration?

Thanks for the tips. I will check bearing end play when both axles are re-installed. The bearing was quite lumpy upon removal so I am hopeful the new outer bearings will fix things up! I pulled the shims from each side and saved them. I see that in the my parts book they were available at .005", .010" ,0.0125", .015" and .030". are they readily available to buy today? I don't see any in the Bermbaum catalog.