keithb7

Alright, I finally have time to get back at these brakes. Next question: Cup that came out of MC is the one on the left. Brass washer seems to be part of the cup. New cup has no brass washer. Seen on right. Washer is shown in diagram. Seen here with arrow I drew in. I was able to peel brass washer off old cup. Shall I just place it between new cup and piston? Next question. The following odd shaped washer was in my kit. I see no need for it. For another car model maybe? Anyone recognize it? Do I have a need for it? Thanks in advance. - Keith

I recently moved. I am setting up my garage and I find this electrical box mounted on the wall. I see the cover here labled "Load Miser". TLM 40/25 Unsure what it is, I take the cover off to have a look inside: It appears to be some type of large circuit breaker. 40 amp rating, I think based on the cover label. There does not seem to be anything hooked up to the output end of this breaker. I see two sets of AC wires coming in. Here in Canada we are running 120V 60 Hz power. Dual phase nets 240V or so. Here is a schematic inside the cover: Is that a clothes Washer & Dryer showing as preferred loads? Behind this garage wall where this Load Miser is mounted there is a washer & dryer inside the house. The washer & Dryer in the house work fine. I am no pro, but I don't see a load hooked up this breaker. The two wires on the left are mounted to the "Line" side. Nothing on the "Load" side on the right of the breaker. Maybe its an old way of wiring up a washer & dryer? The breaker dumps the lighter load automatically if both are on and are close to overloading a circuit? No longer in use? I suspect. I was hopeful it was something useful for my shop!

Thanks for the pics @Dodgeb4ya. Your pics are of a fluid drive, correct? No torque multiplication as there are no stators and turbines. Am I right here? I recently had someone question me on the visual differences between the Fluid Drive, and the Fluid Torque Drive. I believe the Fluid Drive is a totally sealed unit. By '53 the Fluid Torque Drives seemed to have external cooling. Am I correct to state that? The V8's Fluid Torque Drives had a torque oil sump pan under the bell housing area. Also an oil cooler on the front of the engine near the water pump. Torque oil was fed to and from the front cooler via external oil lines. The Fluid Torque Drive model in my 6 Cylinder Windsor has the Engine-Fed oil option. The torque oil is shared with the engine oil and also cooled this way. When my engine oil is drained I also drain my toque oil. I believe this also proves that I had a Fluid Torque Drive. Not the sealed Fluid Drive option. Am I on the right track here? Thanks, Keith

I’m about to tackle the Lockheed full major and minor brake adjustment. All 4 corners. Without the special tool. I shall learn first hand how much of a struggle it will be. More to come.

Annoying neighbors can really get under your skin. My wife and I recently moved. The old neighbors were not the reason, yet we surely are glad to have them out of our sight. Such a great feeling to come home and not see an aggrivating neighbor. I sympathize with the original poster here. There is often no easy solution. Even if rectified, the site of the person when you come home every day is like a thorn. I hope he moves on someday. Good luck.

A humble approach with plenty of questions here might well get you well through the engine assembly. It would certainly make for an interesting thread. There’s plenty of helpful folks here with lots of experience. Am I wrong?

Thanks for sharing. I shall follow along and learn. You seem well experienced and prepared.

Part of my brake job includes new Coker radials. Seen here beside my old bias tires. Decided on a little narrower W/W for the trial. I am interested to see how they work out.

I too have learned a few things along the way here. Brake fluid attracts water. Its in the air. Known as humidity. There is air in the brake system. We take the cap off the master cylinder to check it. There’s air in there. My understanding is the moisture collects over the years and settles at the lowest point of a braking system. I found this to be true where the lower front wheel cylinder in my ‘53 appeared to have the most rusty water in it. See pic earlier in this thread. DOT5 is a great question. I’d like to know the answer here too. Brake fluid maintenance is a part of my regular routine while looking after all the vehicles in my family. My wife, sons, and my daily drivers. I monitor brake fluid color and flush it all out when it starts to turn a hint darker. I plan to do the same with my ‘53. However these old cars often sit for the winter. Mine does. The idle time, is a killer when there’s moisture in your brake system. It sits. It corrodes. Rust and pitting develop. Perhaps I shall flush out and change my brake fluid every 2-3 years as a precaution? I have been using DOT3. Maybe that’s too often? @ebruns1 did you pull out both of your front wheel brake lines? Were they under the rad and woven through various car parts and pieces? I am contemplating pulling mine. They appear to possibly be difficult to replace with engine in and car fully assembled. - Keith

Not helping! Dpollo. Just kidding. Interesting info. Yet more reasons why I should buy this car.

I will not go look at this car. I will not ask “How does it run?”. Nor enquire about engine bay shots or maintenance records. These answers will only pull me in deeper. If someone throws money at me, or I win a free detached shop on a Scratch & Win lotto ticket, I’ll consider those acts devine intervention. Then I’ll persue acquiring the car. Little else will get me nearer to that awseome car. Yes, you know I want it. No, there never is the right time to buy. No, I’ll never find one so nice when I’m ready to buy. You’re all correct on those points. I’m staying put over here. Away from that car!

Interior.

Sorry folks. I am limited here to post more photos. Currently in Mexico with spotty cell coverage. Only with my cell. If you are serious and you want more pics PM me through this site. Thx.

I may be coherenced into helping facilitate a deal. Asking price is $9950 Canadian. About $7500 USD. Only 1 quick ferry ride from Seattle. I have no connection with seller. I just would really like to see this go to a good home if I can’t have it.

Garage space is forthcoming. That’s the problem. My wife and I have plans to build a detached shop in the next few years. We recently moved and another car is not in the plans yet. If I had someone bugging me to let go of my Chrysler I’d be more tempted. Saying that, I’d rather not give up my current Chrysler anyway. In a few more years I’ll be prepared to add another car to my inventory. The temptation is awful though. Maybe I can find a friend to buy it!

“1951 Dodge Kingsway Businessman’s coupe. It’s in great condition. Has 53,669 original miles. Was restored in July of 1998. It has a lot of history. Several pieces of original paperwork included.” This popped up locally. The price is good. I like it a lot. I have not seen it in person. I dare not go. I must overlook this fine car. Yet I find it difficult to do so. The time is not right. Does anyone have any comments, in an effort to get past this car? I cannot come up with much negativity. Your help is appreciated. Lol.

If you go to your Blue manual. Page 58. Brakes, Data and Specifications it reads: 2nd column C-56 (your car NY'r) Master Cylinder Bore 1 1/8" 3rd column to right of page. For C60-2 (my car) and C-58 it reads: 1" Bore for C60-2 Windsor Deluxe 1 1/8" master cylinder bore for C-58 (Imperial) This info supports what I found, a 1" bore in my car. I did not see this spec before I ordered my rebuild kit. You "Should" have the 1 1/8" as specified. I ended up going with 2 modern built wheel cylinders. I went with the Chinese ones. I figure I probably won't be around to see the next set to wear out. LOL. They are easy to change if needed. I rolled the dice on these I suppose. Time will tell. Why don't I ship you my 1 1/8" master cylinder rebuild kit that I ordered in error?

Thank you @classiccarjack. A cylinder hone was ordered along with a new (correct) MC rebuild kit. More waiting for parts to arrive. Off to Mexico for 10 days in the sun. When I get back I will have spring fever and be all over this job again. New Coker W/W radial tires were ordered this week. Back to the original equivalent stock tire size. Stock bias tires on my Windsor were 7.60x15. The tires on my car when i bought it were L78-15. A little taller and a little wider. I believe these were Imperial and NY'r sized tires.The previous owner had installed an extra washer on the steering knuckle arms to pull them away from the tire inner sidewall. The knuckles were making contact with the tire. To make the washers fit in place, the castle nut could not seat fully, so no cotter pin could be fit in place.The nuts were loctite'd in place. I checked them regularly. The owner did disclose the info at the time of sale. I knew I'd be replacing the tires soon enough, back to stock size. Makes little sense to me why someone would jeopardize safety in this case, to save a few bucks by using incorrect sized tires.

Jealous. It s nice to see Brookie out in the winter. Road are a mess here and likely will be for a while yet. Plenty of wet rotting snow and wet roads in the day. Then freezes at night. About 14 F here tonight. On a positive note I ordered a new set of Corker Classic W/W Radials for my Windsor. Anxious to see them on my car! Come on spring.

True. No matter what I buy, I too going theough it. If not money then I invest time. Its a fun hobby that I enjoy. Plus the reassurance that I can safely take it on further distances from home.

Sounds like a waste of time. I dislike experiences like this. It frustrates me when sellers lie. Good job knowing what you were looking at. Buyer beware they say.

https://www.allpar.com/mopar/flat.html

I'll take a stab at the order of luxury and pricing: Imperial Chrysler Desoto Dodge Plymouth

You found the right place. This is an excellent forum. I am less than 1 year into my first old Mopar. A 1953 Chrysler. These seem to be very well built cars. The flat head 6 is known as a very reliable engine that will seem to run on less than half of 1 lung. Better known for its reliability than horsepower. Easy to work on with pretty basic tools. I am quite happy with my Mopar.