Leaderboard

When I pulled my engine, in a similar condition, I removed the transmission along with the clutch and brake pedals. I was then able to pull the engine out with the bell housing attached. This is tricky as the steering column interferes with things a bit. But it'll come out. I then laid the block on it's side, on a solid bench and removed the crankshaft out the bottom with the Fluid Drive attached. I could then access all of the FD nuts to separate the FD and Crank. Then a lot of cleaning with wire wheels and flapper sanding drums, and a lot of penetrating oil. I was finally able to drive all of the pistons out with a BFH and a block of wood. Then I focused on the valves. I gripped the cam sprocket with a large channel lock pliers and rotated it back and forth, a little at a time, until all of the valves were stuck open. I could then tip the block upside down and slide the came out, followed by the tappets. I then hammered the valves back closed to remove the keepers and springs. Then, with the aid of a long punch, I drove the valves up and out of the block. Then I hauled it all to a machine shop where they bored it, decked the block and milled the head, replaced the valve guides and seats, as they were also trashed. They provided the pistons and rings when I picked it all up. I then reassembled it and it's been a solid engine ever since.

Or, you can stick a large cork plug in there. That'll sure look fancy, and be a great conversation starter 😁

I remember watching that link awhile ago when it was posted .... there were a few things I did not agree with, I did think the guy was very knowledgeable. I also was reminded about how old men like to sit around and tell stories 🤣🤣🤣 The story about the camshaft was what caught my attention .... never in my years have I heard that.

All I'll say is that I've been working on engine internals since 1959. Cams, cranks, blocks etc. Disassembled, cleaned, reassembled and installed. Never have I concerned myself with that question. Oh, and most of them ran when I finished.

I feel sorry for you ... it has been a ongoing saga. I took a break from working on it recently and took time to think about it ... we just continued to drive the car around town. It has progressively gotten worse and for the first time I was able to create the situation in the driveway. Just using a in line spark plug tester I was able to monitor the spark going to one cylinder. When the engine ran smooth the spark was fine and steady .... at times the engine would act up and the spark turned very erratic or sparse ... sometimes there was no spark at all and engine died at a idle. I now know without a doubt, it is a spark issue and not a fuel issue. The engine has a cam/crank sensors and 1 coil with 6 plug wires coming from it. I replaced the crank sensor twice and no change, same with coil, it has a new ASD relay. I feel more then I know, it is losing power to the coil ... I should have done more testing on it to prove it. I still do not trust the wiring harness where it cross over the exhaust ... at one time the loom came loose and got hot. With the extra wire harness I have around, they all have repairs in that area. On this harness you can see 3 wires have some black shrink tubing with a yellow stripe on it. A previous repair where the harness crosses over the exhaust .... other people have had wiring issues in this area ... I have another harness and it also has repairs .... My original harness so far has no previous repairs done to it. Everything works with no issues, except erratic spark going to the coil. In the photo is a plug and 4 wires for the coil, I will cut my coil wires out and replace with a different one all the way from plug to plug. I spent the day inspecting and looking at all the wiring and since everything but the coil is working right ... I'm just going to wrap it back up and put everything back together ... with new coil wires. I'm hoping that will fix it, but prepared to accept it wont .... I will not have to wonder about condition of harness because it is inspected.

Trans comes out fairly easy. Remove shift linkages, the driveshaft, disconnect/remove e-brake (taking it off gives you more room to work). 4 bolts hold the trans to the bell housing. NOTE - the trans is heavy. Have another healthy & strong person under there with you and don’t put any crushable or critical body parts between the trans and Mother Earth. A transmission Jack strapped to the trans can kee it from killing you. Since the doghouse is off you can pull it out the front, but the bell housing overhangs the crankshaft. You might have to pull the bell housing (and the pedals ) as one unit. If I remember right, 4 bolts hold the engine to the bell housing. Out of the truck, you should have the room to unbolt the bell housing, separate it from the engine and lift it off. Good time to install new , rear motor mounts. Ii it was mine, I would my damndest to unbolt the fluid drive in the truck. It is also heavy as hell and the ring gear will eat you up, so be careful. When you get it out and put it on the engine stand, be aware that engine stands aren’t designed for the flathead 6 - the engine will be top heavy and flip a stand in a heartbeat. And it is move than capable of punishing you, any helper, or random engine parts. One last observation I’m sure you are learning - you will do damn little to your truck that costs less than $500. It costs as much to rebuild the flathead as it costs to rebuild a small block Chevy… And you haven’t started making your wiring harnesses yet 🙂. Good time to make them and get them installed. Make the behind the dash wires about 12” longer so you have more room to pull instruments and the few dash lights. Note where each wire goes to the wiper switch, then from the switch to the motor. Take LOTS of photos and notes.

So, the car is not running very well, is that it? I would not panic just yet. First, get it into a warm garage and do a regular "tune-up". Check the spark quality, check the points, adjust timing, dwell, idle speed (use a vacuum gauge). Make sure that the carb is clean, not flooding, and you have no vacuum leaks. And, yes, do a proper compression check (no plugs, throttle all the way open) just to see what you are dealing with 🙂

Thanks to Tom I cleaned the downshift “carb solenoid” and it FIXED my issue of not downshifting when coming to a stop! Thanks to Yom and EVERYONE who gave me suggestions for fixing my problem! I appreciate all the help!!

Do they sell it in black......?