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Some new evidence has come to light. The test I described in my initial post that I indicated was successful on my generator, I decided to re-test it on the work bench. According to the information I had it appeared to pass the test again so I decided to look for youtube videos showing the same test being performed. What I found was in the videos the generators being tested ran a lot faster than mine did, by quite a margin. When I originally installed the generator it charged properly, and since I thought it passed the running test that my problem was elsewhere. After seeing it run so slow compared to the videos I decided to take the bearing plate off on the brush end of generator. What I found was the oil I had used to oil the sleeve bearing had seeped in between the brush holder frame and the generator frame. There is a piece of cardboard of sort used as insulation to isolate the brush frame from the main casing. This insulation was oil soaked. Using an ohm meter I did a resistance check and it was reading about 25 meg-ohm. That's a high resistance but I believe there should really be infinite resistance. I spent some time searching for Mica sheets and finally found some on ebay in the size I was looking for. If the USPS can manage to make the delivery I should have the Mica by the weekend or early next week. I'm not sure why there was so much oil inside the housing, possibly I didn't install it correctly during the rebuild. I'll be looking at that while waiting for the Mica. I'll let you know how it works out.

Marty, In The 1941 - 1948 Chrysler Service Manual, Page 143, there is a Cut Away Carburetor Picture of the Kickdown Piston inside your Carb that isn't sending the message to kickdown your Transmission at your Governor. It is either clogged or your Points on your Governor are, or something is amiss with your wiring. The Carburetor Solution I am suggesting costs nothing but a gasket and an hours work. You do not even need to open the Top of the Carburetor (Air Horn) to Service the part I am suggesting. I was checking, testing, replacing parts, cleaning Governor Points etc., etc. until I did what I am suggesting to you my problem (Identical to yours) persisted. I even had previously replaced my entire Engine Wiring Harness. I spent close to a thousand Dollars to sort out my problem - namely a clogged Kick Down Piston in my Carburetor. Good Luck with your solution. Please post us what you did to find yours, I typically don't post a lot on here anymore so consider yourself lucky to get this information because sorting out my Transmission Glitch was a MFSOB to put it lightly. Also change your 30 Amp. Fuse at your Transmission Solenoid. Best of Luck to you. (The Wire from that Part of the Carb to the Governor is Yellow) Tom

snow birds on the lot

If batt.voltage is present at B, then amp gauge is not the problem. Here are some diagnostics from the C-1 shop manual:

Yep that appears to be broke...........unfortunately any Oz ones I have are completely different........a suggestion would be if a drivers door lock is hard to find then try to find a 4dr sedaan rear passenger side door handle assembly.....in "theory" it should be the same tho' the long accuating piece will be different shaped.......andyd

Ed, AFAIK the parking or emergency brake by then should be the internal expanding style which is basically what they had up to the end of that transmission fitted brake.......if it is then you undo the slip joint four bolts onto the brake drum, then using a large pry bar or large screw driver place it between the 4 studs allowing space for a large socket on another pry bar to undo the center nut, then remove the brake drum(having made sure the brake is now "off")..........then you can disassemble the brake parts....there should be a large flat spring steel thing that locks into the centre of the assembly with "arms" that go either side of the assembly to hold the brake shoes.......take this spring thing off and undo the cable adjuster and thats about it.......get the shoes relined and reassemble.............take note of the way the cable adjuster is installed so that the adjusting rachet can be accessed thru the brake backing plate hole........I hope this makes sense........lol...........this is the procedure I've used over the past 50 yrs......lol........andyd

I have not seen that type of filter canister with a bolt on lid, but if you can identify the proper filter cartridge there's no reason why it won't work for you. As you said, many filters were aftermarket installs on these trucks. You'll need to determine which ports on the filter canister are Inlet and Outlet and make up new lines to connect to your engine. I took your photo and labeled the plugs for you as you seemed unsure how to connect it. You may also want to search for the correct coil mounting bracket as this one seems to be home made.

Just a word of caution with the spin-on replacements. There are a lot of filters that will physically fit the adapter. But, most are not rated for bypass duty, but for full flow. The bypass filters have a much smaller 'pass' rating, catching stuff that a full flow will let through. You can buy the bypass replacement for a small diesel to be sure. For instance the Mitsubishi Fuso 3.9L diesel I had used two filters that looked identical, except for the printed part number. One for full flow and one for bypass. I think I'll try to replicate that on my 230 just to see if I can. It's already drilled, tapped and plugged for full flow. Just have to make the lines. Then use a similar mounting base on the other side for the bypass. Maybe this year I'll finish.

Either the key is too worn down or there's an issue in the cylinder, but the key just won't turn to the right. I fiddled with it when picking up the car and managed to get it to to turn, but now I've just been trying for 20 minutes and no amount of jiggling will get the key to turn. On MoParCo I see an ignition lock cylinder. Am I on the right track? I removed the screw holding the whole assembly to the dash and then got the chrome cap off, but it's not obvious how the cylinder comes out of the housing. Thanks, Chris