Leaderboard

The dwell reading should be around 38 degrees, keep adjusting the gap.

Dwell meter came in. Gave it a run out and it read 65 degrees. Pulled the distributor out. Turns out the Points had closed up... alot. adjusted points to 0.20, Put her back together, Reset the timing, adjusted air fuel mixture. She reacted well to adjustments, Checked the dwell. Down to 25 degrees, running great!

met a major mile marker today setting the carbo box onto the cab and chassis and bolting them together....not heavy, but bulky....person at each corner...set within an inch....inserting alignment pins and then shift it against the seal....fitted the bolts...about 1 1/2 hours with all the bolts

In order to fix a running board I "damaged", I needed to do a bunch of hammering and bending. That involved a sledge, several large C clamps and some pieces of wood. Oh, a rubber mallet For a more gentle approach. With those tools, I was able to take my running board, with a side edge that was in places bent almost completely flat, and get it to a fairly close to original shape. More shaping is needed. To get the edge restored, means putting two curved surfaces back where only flatish metal exists. I designed a tool. I had a set of dies/anvils made and I'm getting ready to weld up my new 6 ton press. Here is what the die/anvil look like, and what the press will look like.

Don't forget to put the housing and boot on before you put the pin in, BTDT.

Hi all just wanted to wrap up this thread, as D35 and Dodgeb4ya suggested I installed a speedi sleeve and a modern SKF seal which completely solved my leak issue 1000 miles later and shes still bone dry. Thank you all for your assistance and feedback!

Also remember to lube the points rubbing block with proper grease. Great that you found the problem.

Well, mine is missing the input plug on the antenna, and doesn't power on. I was hoping to put a bluetooth unit or one of those transmitters with an input jack under the dash - and send the music through an original radio.

Over kill on amperage is ok when talking about relays. I run 30A ones even though I have LED headlights, GE Nighthawks. Not sure what headlights you are running, but current draw specs should be available whatever they are, just remember to double that number because you have two headlights. The stock head lamps for a 48 Plymouth draw 8.6A on high, that is 17.2A for the pair. If you have converted to 12V then it is 5A per bulb, 10A total. Do not forget to to protect the circuit with a fuse or fusible link, maybe a self resetting circuit breaker.

Well Happy Day! New fuel pump. carb, starter, plugs, wires, coil, and condenser. Engine would not start, absolutely nothing, not even a single "putt". Firing order 153624. We looked at the distributor to make sure it was spinning counterclockwise like all the diagrams. Of course it was. My brain could not accept the fact of what it was seeing. Put the cap and wires back together for counterclockwise firing order. Nothing. And finally, reality sank it. The distributor is spinning CLOCKWISE! Quick re-ordering of the wires and the engine started right up. No misses, or noises, just PURRS!