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Jeff: NAPA's line of Echlin ignition parts they have for our trucks are quality parts and work fine. Sometimes the rotor may be a lil' loose on the distributor shaft, but there's a spring on its underside that can be pried out a little if necessary. It's good to check the spring tension of the points like you did to minimize point bounce. After putzin' with the points, tighten everything down snug and double check your dwell angle to make sure it's within specs. Then, do the timing. Make sure all plug leads are clipped in tight to the dizzy and on the plugs. Look for shorts. With a timing light, and the vacuum advance disconnected, you can do a check of the ignition and see if it's missing or firing abnormally. Is the coil new? If not, do you have a new one to swap out for comparison? (a bad coil once caused my motor to miss here and there). With an advance timing light, you can check the advance curve of the dizzy - do two separate checks for the centrifugal advance and the vacuum advance. The advance specs are in the shop manual, but I think it's about 18 deg for vacuum and up to 22 deg for the weights. As with any engine, ignition timing is critical. The more time invested in your ignition system will result in better performance, reliability, economy, and more power. Getting the spark delivered at the exact right time throughout all conditions of an engine's operation is something that has not changed in the design of internal combustion engines from day one. A breaker point system no doubt has it's limits, but works just fine for our flatties when installed and adjusted properly. Keep up the good work and fill us in as you make progress!

Did it look like a Z-10 or a Q-10? You might want to report this to Research in Motion Limited as they may not be aware of such droppings and you might have some recourse for litigation.

Tom, I have this cap and will send it to you.

too early for black berries..bet they could have been polk berries though....I often get similar stains on my paint from pecan tree leaves..they notorious for that...why it stays in the garage 98.375% of the time

JipJob, I do not have an extra Cap laying around, as I'm sure Don Coatney does not also As a matter of fact, I have even tried contacting the guys that rebuild these Master Cylinders in the past, in an effort to obtain one. I did that because I was wanting one to do a gravity feed Brake Fluid replacement. Wanting an extra Cap to tap a hole through for Bleeding purposes. That's when I found that Kit at Harbor Freight that will do it without the extra Cap. Its got attachments wide enough to achieve a gravity Bleed. As I said before if your trying to "duplicate" a fitting or cap - take the one you have with you to a supply store and try to match it up. These Master Cylinders are getting rare as Hen's Teeth, and unless you luck up on one in a wrecking yard or go on ebay and ask the seller to pull one off a parts car - then no cigar. Remember there's always more than one way to skin a cat. We on the Forum are as helpful as we can be, but we're not an endless source of free parts. (I have not taken your Thread to mean that we are, I am merely pointing out that salient fact). They also sell these Master Cylinder's on ebay for around $170 a pop S&H not included. Good Luck! Tom

Here are a few shots I took yesterday afternoon after putting it back in the "barn". I will do a compression check next week. The miss is about all that really needs to be sorted out so far. Brakes and clutch are good to go. I think I will concentrate on fitting the doors next. It's really great to see this coming together. I have had several guy's stop to say how much they like the color. Jeff

Not up to speed on trucks but I think your 52 is single wire, it is easy to check to make sure though. Since I just bought single wire sender I thought I would update the info since the JC Whitney model is no longer available. While I didn't have to change out the mounting flange the sender I found does work for the conversion. So after searching I found the universal sender at Tanks Inc can be used for this conversion but cost $35 plus shipping. On a side note I liked this sender the stop tabs for the float arm let me adjust it enough to match my gauge exactly. Full is full and empty is at at about an inch from the bottom so I have some reserve. The float could be set to anywhere I just liked the idea of a reserve. The unit is advertised as 73 ohms not 78 but bending the tab down got me to where it read correctly. (It was just shy of empty before I adjusted it.) You can see the tabs in the picture and the bolt that holds it together same as the old JC unit. Hope this helps. It has a ground connection also but it is a single wire unit. Just thought I would mention it as the pic could be misleading. Al http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=276/category_id=62/home_id=62/mode=prod/prd276.htm They have the model number of TAN-ORG

Sounds like you are staying in 2nd/3rd. Not getting the 1st/reverse trip over in the linkage/transmission. Were it mine, with the engine shut off, I would unpin the linkage at the transmission, manually move the gearshift selector lever, and the gearshift operating lever to attempt to locate reverse. That would allow you to determine if it is a linkage problem, or a problem in the transmission where the levers are located.

I'm with ya on the dash. I have a 49 Windsor,and the dash is nothing short of beautiful. Even the original dash pad is in good condtion on mine As for the Fluid Drive trans,I have one I would give you from a 55 DeSoto hemi if you can use it. You couldn't sell a fluid drive trans to most people if you pointed a gun at them. Nobody wants a 2 speed automatic. The body on your car is really nice and since you don't care about restoring,if it were me I'd put a used 318 and 904 automatic in it and go driving. No need to change the rear as far as strength goes because you won't be spinning both rear tires under 400 hp. You're just be driving it. When you get the cash later on buy the rear differential from a Cherokee or late model Ford SUV and bolt that in if you want a higher gearing for better gas mileage. That will also solve your missing emergency brake problem because the new rear will be set up for an emergency brake. Used 318's are really cheap,and so are used 904's. I bought a whole Aspen stationwagon that was rusty and beat up ,but ran and shifted real good for 250 bucks. Got damn near that much out of the body at the crusher after I pulled the engine,transmission,and rear end. As for rebuilding them,if they ain't broke there is no reason to "fix" them by rebuilding them if all you want is a weekend car for local driving. Buy a good used 318 and 904 and put them in. Who cares if it burns a little oil? You will be back on the road and you can always put rings and bearing in it later if you decide you want to do long cruises with it. Start checking your local newspapers and Craig's list for a whole donor car with a 318 or 360 and 904 auto in it. Besides the engine,trans,and rear,there are a whole bunch of other parts you might be able to use like battery cables,shift linkages,emergency brake cables,radiator,etc,etc,etc.

Gotta love those 49's!!!

Another 49 Windsor Awesome .Best of luck if you end up buying it.

Have you ever seen Merle eat