Leaderboard

I cannot see a reason why not. I have done that many times on old and new cars without a problem. I would solder them though because I have seen too many solderless connecters come apart. Then tape or shrink wrap with rubber shrink tubing. My 2cents.

I think shops that deal with trucks may have those valve stems. I have simply used tubes in mine. I usually inflate radials to 35 psi.

Found the problem!!! It was the two ports associated with the mixture screw. Before I took it apart agian I tried adjusting the mixture screw again. I took the screw all the way out and it did not change the way it ran. That was a clue! So i pulled it down again. When I rebuilt it the first time there was a bad spot where the two carb pieces bolt together. I had to use some sealer to make up for the defect in the mounting surfaces. Some of the sealant had gotten over the holes and fallen into the ports thus stopping them up. Thats why the mixture screw had no effect on how it ran. Cleaned it out again, and now it idles. Runs a little rough at higher RPMs. I'm sure it dont have it adjusted quite right. Any Ideas on rough running at higher RPM?

http://stoveboltengineco.com/catalog/store/#!/~/product/category=412400&id=1396066

Here is a helpful tip when disassembling and rebuilding a carb or any other part. Do the disassembly in an old baking pan and line the bottom with refrigerator magnets. Makes losing parts less likely.

a cautionary tale: I lost count on how many times I rebuilt the carb on my '48, probably did it every year from when I got the truck roadworthy in '98 all the way to '09. It idled fine, it was responsive on the road, and fired up quickly in the cold and hot (after years of struggling with hot starts caused by the original battery cables). The problem I had was when driving down the road it ran fine, but when I'd hit the brakes, the engine would stall; the only way to counter this was to open the throttle to get about 1500 rpm at 'idle' rather than the factory spec of 450. After being stymied for over a decade as to what was causing all of this, I finally threw down $20 on an old B&B carb on eBay, picked up another rebuild kit, and rebuilt this 'new' carb. Over three years later, that carb fires right up, idles fine, and operates as required while driving down the road without much of a pucker factor when approaching a stop light. My best guess is that one of the fuel check valves (them little b-b looking gizmos in the rebuild kit) would get stuck in its passage and choke the fuel supply leading to the main jet; either there was some debris in that passage that I couldn't see to remove, or the passage had eroded from being gummed up from the truck being parked outside for over 20yrs. Not that you should condemn your carb now, but finding another carb to rebuild may be an option in your future, or at least have an extra carb on the shelf to experiment with when ya get bored

First the metal strips are properly call shovel strips to keep the grain scoupe shovels from digging into the wood. For a utilitarian floor get a quality piece of 3/4" marine plywood. Stain it the color you wish, bolt on the shovel strips an only "you and your hair dresser will know". I stained mine a flat black in keeping with the original black bed offering. Just another choice.

Just an FYI on installling a T-5, make sure you know which model yours came from and DO NOT just assume that ATF will work in it. When I was young I phoned the GM dealership with my vin # in my 84 Firebird with a T-5, the lady at parts just said, well just use atf that's all we put in them, I can't see any difference with yours......I droped the oil and it was gold...so I wondered why and just figured...dealer knows best, used atf and within 2 weeks the trans was HOOPED, phoned back and got a different person...ya your trans needs a special GM Syncromesh oil...sorry about the other girl Sorry....cost me a transmission...so please check it out! Great thread, but I would like to see more pics on the "kit" and the spacer etc. Thanks guys!