Running Boards

[grey beard]

Judging from my several years of Pilothouse learning, I believe the hardest pieces of sheet metal to find for these vehices are running boards - especially for pickups. Larger trucks use shorter boards that are mounted higher up, so are not quite as vulnerable. Pickup running boards certainly seem to be a scarce comodoty.

Granted, fiberglass repros are made for our trucks, but they come with no brackets or supports, and I have never seen the product, so cannot comment on their quality. I'm sure they would look better than the oak boards I have seen some use when they could not find the real thing.

My own pickup had a pair of boards on it. That's about all you could say for them. They were curbed, hit, knocked around, poked from the top and from the bottom. In addition, they were rusted though in seveal small spots and the brackets that are welded to the bottom of the boards were rusted through completely. But at least I had a set to start out with, so I was thankful for this.

I had these boards sand blasted, and they looked even worse than before - not too much left. Then I took them to my tame Amish metal man and he made for me new "W" shaped brackets that we cut to length and then migged into place, after the old rusted pirvrd had been blown off with a plasma cutter.

I then took these things home, gave each a coat of Zero Rust - great stuff, and started to do body work on them. I spent more than FORTY hours on EACH board, and they are still sorry. Because the brackets are welded to the bottom sides, it is impossible to do much metal work on them. Addiionally, the ribbed top surface makes body work a real headche.

After all the time I spent on them, they were still quite friendly - waved at you as you went past - not too straight in spite of all my filling, long-boad sanding, etc. At leas I got the general shape about right, so you can recognize what they used to look like. But I knew in my heart that a shiny black paint job would make them look even more pathetic. They were ROuGH!

In desperation, I sprayed them with bed liner from Auto Zonw - stuff made bv Duplicolor. Went on nice, dries flat black, is rubberized, and sorta' hides the sorry body work. Now I need to give them each about two more coats, and I think they'll be ready to install.

You gents who have completed restorations, what have you used? Black paint was original, but it is slippery, wears off pretty quickly at the spot where you always step, and surely shows any out-of-shape conditions like mine still has.

One thing I have learned - not all sheet metal should be restored. Some of it is really beyond use. Guess mine were in that category but I was too dumb to realize it. JMHO

I'd like to hear your ideas. :)

[Dale Uhrich]

i have a set of long box boards that don't look to bad maybe they could be shorten for a short box.

[brian hood]

I would like to buy a pair for my shortbed 53 1/2 ton. Does anyone have some for sale?

[bach4660]

One thing I have learned - not all sheet metal should be restored. Some of it is really beyond use. Guess mine were in that category but I was too dumb to realize it.

Being an eternal optimist I keep trying, I used a bead roller to make patch panels for the running boards and welded them in, but found the sanding in between the beads is really time consuming. Anyways after months of work the results are okay, I guess I have to agree with you that not sheet metal can be saved.

[Allen I.]

I have been going back and forth on whether or not to make a set out of wood. What I have now from the previous owner is wood covered in rubber runner material from Lowe's. Really not bad at 20 feet.

Running boards and a gas tank for my B2C-116 are the top two items on my list.

[5.9diesel]

we had to make new step/running boards for our boat trailer about two years ago. we made them out of marine grade 3/4 inch plywood, then had them coated with rhino lining. they are about as indistructible as anything can be. depending on the setup of the truck, that stuff can cover alot and really adds strength. its also slip resistant and wear proof.

it may not be show quality, but it works really well.

[anthonyb]

Dave,

After getting prices ranging from $300 to $600 to spray on the various bed-liners, I spent $89 for a Herculiner kit and did it myself. I think it looks better than the spray ons and it only took about 1/6 of the gallon to do both sides.

Good tough finish and lots of grip. Does hide the small imperfections but I guess I should have filled the large factory indentations. Had to do something as the rubber matting was slowly rotting away in the Texas heat.

The pics aren't the greatest but you should get the idea.

These are on my 41 sedan but I intend to do the truck the same way.

[Rich Gengo]

I bought the fiberglass boards for my truck and was shocked to see there was no way to mount them but they did look like the original boards. What I did was cut 3 pieces of 1" square tubing and glued them the length of the boards. I then put them where the belong on the brackets and the drilled and tapped them and bolted them on. I rhino lined the bed rails and the inside of the bed and had the running boards rhinoed also. Really looks good and never have to worry about them every getting scratched and they look like steel and I can also stand on them if I had to.

[pflaming]

Rich, have any pictures of those rhino'd running boards?

[1952B3b23]

Also Rich, did you get the fiberglass ones from Bruce Horkey?

[judsonhauling]

I am glad I am not the only one searching for running boards. I am redoing my dads '48 b-1-d 126" WB and running boards are on my list of can not finds.

[ggdad1951]

I am glad I am not the only one searching for running boards. I am redoing my dads '48 b-1-d 126" WB and running boards are on my list of can not finds.

I have a pair of RB that could be used for patches or ?

[55 Fargo]

I am glad I am not the only one searching for running boards. I am redoing my dads '48 b-1-d 126" WB and running boards are on my list of can not finds.

You may have to piece together some from donor boards.

You could use some beefy sheet metal, and hand stamp the divots, and weld into place.

Piecing together, may be the answer, if nothing is available at a sane price.