Rockwoods 47 Back Running

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, have the engine running again, all is back together.

So far all is well except the scisson choke lloks like I will have to adjust it or fix something, it is only closing a bit, when it should close fully when the engine is cranking, will adjust later.

The carb is leaking a bit, this carb has been troublesome:confused: , it also took a while to get gas pumped back up from the tank, will need to have a good look at this carb another day.

The intake/exhaust manifolds seem to be fine, all is okay, "touch wood".

The heatriser is not working, the spring is not winding it tight as the engine warms up, and the counter weight does not seem to blow open when you rev the engine, the heatrsier feels free, and is not sticking, not sure what is wrong, I would have thought the exhaust would blow this flapper closed when the engine is revved, might have to tie it open for the summer, if I cannot get it to work.

The engine seems to idle better when warm now, is this possible?

Thanx all for helping me go through this, not sure if all is licked yet:rolleyes: , but it's a good start....................Fred;)

[Norm's Coupe]

Sounds great Fred, glad to hear you got it back up and running again.

In the future if you had the carb or fuel pump off you can do the following to get its started faster without cranking so much. Pick up a clean aerosol can lid. Pour in about 1/2" or so of gas into it, then pour the gas into the carb. Then immediately try cranking the engine. After doing this once or twice the car should start right up.

[55 Fargo]

Here are a few pics of the job, rerouted the fule lines a bit, placed the filter down below the exhaust manifolds, if there was a ever a leak, it would be below the manifold and away from the engine...........Fred

[TodFitch]

Here are a few pics of the job, rerouted the fule lines a bit, placed the filter down below the exhaust manifolds, if there was a ever a leak, it would be below the manifold and away from the engine...........Fred

Your heat riser counter weight is wound up into a different position than mine. A lot more counter-clockwise. Maybe it is just because the design of mine is 14 years older than yours. . .

[PatS....]

Lookin' good!!!

[RobertKB]

Fred, everything looks really nice and I am glad to see you persevered and got it finished. The heat riser may not be working correctly as you have to have a certain amount of tension on the spring. Maybe you need to go one more revolution before setting the weight in place. I don't think I explained that all that well but in my head it works! Again congrats on getting the old girl back on the road. Now sit back, drive it, and relax. Remember to time it before worrying about the temperature it runs at!

[eric wissing]

Looking good. I like the black. Eric

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, adjusted the heatriser weight, it works great now, also adjusted the choke it is working not bad too!

I had a slight antifreeze leak coming from the 7/16 bolt, I used pipe dope with teflon on it before installation, I gave this a bolt a little more torque, it is still leaking a bit intermittently.

I am going to drain the antifreeze, and either use high temp red silicone on the bolt, or rap it with heavy duty pink teflon tape, that should take care of that, I hope, when I brought it inot the garage a little while ago, there was no sign of leakage, but I am sure it is still there.

I never get off easy.............Fred

[greg g]

A little radiator sealer leak sealer might work well also.

[TodFitch]

Making good progress there with those little issues that always seem to dog major work. At least they do for me. Hang in there, its looking good!

[Normspeed]

Fred, I'm glad to see you got the old girl running again. Those busted bolts can be a real headache. Looks good all cleaned and painted.

[Jerry Roberts]

I had tried various sealers on a leaky manifold bolt including teflon tape , permatex , pipe joint compound and the thing that finally sealed it up was anti-sieze compound . I got the idea from another forum member who sealed his with this method .

[PatS....]

I had tried various sealers on a leaky manifold bolt including teflon tape , permatex , pipe joint compound and the thing that finally sealed it up was anti-sieze compound . I got the idea from another forum member who sealed his with this method .

I also took that suggestion to heart and have used it in the assembly if my engine and a bunch of other things. For the time and effort it is good insurance.

Thanks to whomever suggested it.

[55 Fargo]

I have all the products in my home shop, avaition sealant, Permatex 2, black silicone,pipe dope with teflon, never seize, and teflon tape.

Today there is no evidence of any leaking, so good for now, not sure why it suddenly stopped, it only leaked a very tiny amount anyway...........Fred

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, just came back from about a 1 hour drive, some highway, some around town. All went well, ambient temp outside , was 74 when I started out and about 68 on my return.

Going against the wind the engine temp was stable at 165, going with the wind it was a round 170 or so, nothing to com,plain about.

The car ran great, no leaks from the manifold bolt either...........Fred ps on the big highway, I was doing about 50 to 55 mph, cars were passing me like I was standing still, they were all doing 65 to 70 mph.

[55 Fargo]

Your heat riser counter weight is wound up into a different position than mine. A lot more counter-clockwise. Maybe it is just because the design of mine is 14 years older than yours. . .

Hi all, what position should the counterweight on the heatriser be in when the engine is cold............Thanx Fred

[TodFitch]

Hi all, what position should the counterweight on the heatriser be in when the engine is cold............Thanx Fred

I don't have a picture available on-line of my engine cold. Here is a different car with the 1933 style heat riser "lollypop style" counterweight in the hot position. When cold the counterweight is at somewhere around the 1 or 2 PM position.

[55 Fargo]

Thanx Shel your a gentlemen and a scholar,I know what the problem with it is. When the shop that made my new shaft, he cut the end for the spring to slip oonto, but he welded the flap onto the shaft leaving the end slit in the wrong position.

So when I install the spring as per the pics, it is too loose, so the weight sits forward, in the warmed up position, which is fine in this weather, but not sure what I can do to get this working, I am not going top take the manifolds apart till a rebuild or engine swap, any ideas???

I was thinking of fabbing something to allow the spring to have more tension, or shorten the spring, is that possible..............Fred

[Jerry Roberts]

How about cutting another slot in the shaft with a disk in a dremmel ? ( with the manifold on the car )