well I'm commited to re wiring

[Young Ed]

I'm not clear on that either off the top of my head. The wiring diagram in the book does show it. The issue with it is when new these cars never had 3 brake lights. And I want mine to for sure.

[steveplym]

A 7 wire switch will make getting three brake lights a bit easier. Plus it will be easier to wire it as the switch will keep your signal light flashing while your brake lights are on too. I do agree with you that an original switch would be nice.

Hope you get if figured out.

[Don Jordan]

I've got to tell you: you guys are more ambitious than I am. I went on line to Rhode Island Wiring and just bought a stock wire harness. You just yank all the old wires out and using the diagram they provide everything goes right into place. And it's all the cloth covered, color coded wires. I don't remember what it cost but it was worth it to avoid the head ache and it looks brand new.

my 2 cents

[martybose]

I've got to tell you: you guys are more ambitious than I am. I went on line to Rhode Island Wiring and just bought a stock wire harness. You just yank all the old wires out and using the diagram they provide everything goes right into place. And it's all the cloth covered, color coded wires. I don't remember what it cost but it was worth it to avoid the head ache and it looks brand new.

my 2 cents

I'm with you on this issue. I actually like doing wiring, I've got the tools etc., but when I did my 47 I call Rhode Island Wiring, specified 6 or 8 changes I wanted, and they built it for me. It was worth every cent.

Marty

[steveplym]

It's all about what you want and like to do. In my case I had a box of brand new wire, all 14, 12, and 10 gauge. It was not cloth covered, but plastic covered with a clear coating. Much better wiring than original in my opinion, and the big thing was it was free.

All I had to buy was the connectors and do the labor. I already knew I wanted to rebuild the motor and repaint the car, so I'm spending the money on that and went ahead and rewired it myself. It really was an easy job, but I understand following wiring diagrams and soldering joints are not for everybody. It's just something I enjoyed doing.

[dirty dan]

Any help on the terminals that have 2 or 3 wires into 1? Is there a reason not to have them seperated each with their own terminal?

Are you talking about the turn signal here or just in general?

The only reson I can think of to NOT marry wires in a single connector is that you may want to remove one wire later to isolate it for troubleshooting, etc... It makes it a lot easier to remove/replace one wire later.

[Young Ed]

Anyone know why they were together to being with? The electricity doesnt care as far as I know. I was thinking maybe the terminals they go on wouldn't have room for extra ends.....

[Plymouthy Adams]

Just a nammer in which they daisy-chained the power for distribution to other circuits.

[Young Ed]

Good deal. I've got a few ends to finish up and the dash forward wiring will all be done. Still have to do the long runs to the back-they are still in the car. I need to catch some warmer weather to get a coat of paint on the dash so I can start putting this all back together!

[BobT-47P15]

Ed......about that tick-tick-tick of the signal flasher: it serves as a reminder

that your blinker is working. Especially if your switch does not self cancel.

Mine is back under the dash, but I can't hear it as the

old hearing isn't what it used to be. The wife CAN hear it, she says.

But she's not always along to remind me.

So, the next reminder is a flashing light on the dash or on the signal

unit. On my flasher, the green plastic tip of the handle is supposed to

light up to tell you "flashers are still working, grandpa". But that

feature has not worked on my car, so I took two red pilot lights,

wired them into the flasher system, covered them with poor man's chrome

(tin foil) and attached them under the dash. Can be seen at lower left.

Kinda wierd but it works.

Or.......if you could make the factory setup work.......you could install

one of these hi beam/turn signal indicators. This just sold on ebay for

the paltry sum of $158. Does not include the part behind the dash to

hold the bulbs.

I would think that if you had a friend with a laser cutting device,

they might be able to make those arrows.

[Young Ed]

Thanks to Jim I've gotten directions for an electronic gizmo to make the factory signals function. Uses 1 flasher for each side. I've got a dodge version of the turn signal indicator. Will need some serious mods to fit the ply dash.

[Jim Yergin]

Ed,

As I think we have discussed before, the needed modification to the Dodge piece isn't all that tough. I just cut the post off then recut the angle to match the Plymouth high beam shaft and re-attached it with JB Weld. Worked fine for me and should be even easier with the dash on the work bench. Of course I don't remember if you also have the light bulb holders that go with the piece. If not, then you will have additional fabrication but again, should be easier on the work bench. Good luck.

Jim Yergin

[Young Ed]

Correct the little additional light bulb holder deal is missing. Doesn't look like too bad of a deal to make. BTW not just one dash I have 3 down in the mad scientist lab

[Young Ed]

Wiring update.

[Merle Coggins]

Got any sauce for all that spaghetti?

[Young Ed]

And my favorite tools of the job.

[Young Ed]

Got any sauce for all that spaghetti?

There's been a few times during this project where I felt like I needed to hit some sauce though.....

[steveplym]

Looks great Ed. Glad you're making progress. Those one hand strippers are the only way to go. I've fought with the cheap all in one tool before. They never strip right and I always end up hitting my hand on something.

Good luck and continue to keep us updated on the progress.