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Posted

Ok so I probably should have checked this BEFORE I took it all apart, but I just went to glue in my new cowl vent seal and it looks to be about 1-1/2" shorter than the opening in the truck!

Does it really need to be stretched that much or do I have the wrong seal? :confused:

The truck is a '48 B-1-C.

If I have to stretch it that much, I have no idea how I'll hold it in place till the adhesive dries, or if it will stay after the adhesive dries!. The new seal has the number 1907901 embossed on it, and it came from Roberts.

This is my first old Dodge truck - can anyone tell me if I likely have the wrong seal or what? Maybe other models or years have smaller seals?

Posted

I also got a vent seal from roberts. I glued one end and let it set up. Then i glued the rest and pulled it into place. I then held it until it set up. It held for two days and let go on one end. I then glued it and clamped it into place. It held for two more days. While it was in place I found that regardless of what I tried the cowl vent wouldn't work or close correctly. I haven't worked with it lately but I plan to remove the gasket and try making my own.

Posted

Maybe I'll have to stretch it in place . . .

One other question - I have the handle out and the "tabs" on the top end of the handle (that bolt to the crossbar/hinge that bolts to the cowl vent) - those tabs look like they should pivot on the rivet but they don't, yet the also don't seem too rusty. Are those tabs supposed to rotate on that rivet? I didn't want to bust them off trying to break them loose if they aren't supposed to be able to move.

Posted

The cowl vent gasket has been discussed before on this forum. I think we came to conclusion that Roberts and Berbaum's gaskets were too small. I think the ones from Vintage Power Wagon worked and maybe also from Steele Rubber. Also from Mitchell Motor Parts works. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong here.

Posted

Thanks, Bob. I did do a search and found some similar problems, but it was so far off I thought maybe it was for another vehicle (actually it probably is).

I stretched it, glued it, and clamped it, so I guess I'll see if it stays. I figured if it is the wrong one I might as well kill it . . . . .

You don't happen to know if the small angle brackets on the top end of the operating rod is supposed to pivot on the rivet or not, do you?

Posted

The one I got from Roberts 6 or 7 yrs ago fit pretty good. I put a bead of silicone sealant in the groove and used clothespins all the way around the circumfrance until it set up. Haven't had a problem with it. The pivots on teh vent have a lot of adjustment in them. If I remember correctly its a shoulder bolt (maybe on a concentric?) Mike

Posted

Thats what the 39-47 trucks have too. Basically a bolt with a shoulder just longer then the widths of the sheetmetal. Wish the cars were like that

Posted

I remember all the complaints about the Robert's ones a while back, so when I saw one come up on ebay from Mitchell I bought it. I had to stretch it slightly, but it seems right. I just glued it in last weekend and the vent has been holding it down all week. I'll have to open it back up to see how it holds.

As for the brackets at the end of the arm... They should pivot some, but mine were fairly tight too. Try a little penatrating oil and see if they'll work loose. Just be gentle, you don't want to get them bent out of shape.

Merle

Posted

I went through this with my restoration. My research at the time suggested no one makes the cowl vent for the 'B' series trucks. The ones that were available were for the earlier series, I believe. I sent the Roberts seal back and made my own from generic 1/2" half-round foam rubber stock. That was almost two years ago and it looks/performs fine. Here's a photo of the Roberts seal.

?action=view&current=cowlventseal01.jpg

Posted

That gasket (and the fit) looks just like mine - my truck is a rough looking old thing that runs great - nothing on the whole truck shines like your firewall does!

Any tips on adjusting the vent door for a tight fit? I messed with it for about an hour today, got it to where it snaps open and shut pretty good, but there is still a small gap at the center in the front. I'm hoping the gasket settles in in the back and allows the front to drop down, but maybe I need to do something more.

Posted

The seals that Andy, Roberts and Mitchell supply all come from the same place.

Even though they appear to be short they instal just fine provided you first glue

in the middle allow to cure then stretch out the sides.

Posted

RED48-when I did mine it was trial and error. Then I undid the actuating arm and adjusted the two pivots so that the lip on the vent contacted the seal evenly all the way around (front and back of vent). I then reattached the actuating arm-and adjusted the throw so that it pulled the vent plate lip down snugly into the seal. It doesn't leak, but my windshield gasket from ROBERTS does! Hope that helps. Mike

Posted

Mike -

That helps - it is almost what I eventually did, and lets me know I'm on the right track. The truck is in my garage for now (unfortunately it's usually outside) so I'll let the gasket settle-in a little to see if the back edge gives enough for the front edge to come down that last little bit. If not, I'll do the "dashboard limbo" one more time and see if I can tweak those pivots a little more.

Thanks, everyone, for the help and suggestions - and the quick responses!

Posted

If I remember I wound up going to Vintage Power Wagon. Their seal comes on a role. Just buy a little extra and put the seam in the back. Cant even see it and it looks good and you don't have to take the vent off to put it on.

Posted

Red-after thinking about this and mentioning it to my son-what we actually did was set the vent panel in place and install the shoulder bolts loosely. We then took some type of light weight and set it on top of the vent to seat the lower edge against the seal all the way around. (that gives you the pivoting adjustment) We then tightened up the pivot bolts and made the final adjustment on the actuating linkage to make it close tightly. Now the biggest problems I have with it are bugs coming in at night. I don't know why the PH didn't come equipped with the front facing screen like my '36 plymouth has. I'd imagine that if you had the vent open in a driving rain that it would act like a funnel for the water to get in the cab-but then why would you have the vent open in a rainstorm anyway! Mike

Posted

Thanks - I might have to try that. It hasn't been outside since I replaced the seal but there is still a little gap in the front. When I took it apart the pivot was frozen where the operating rod attaches to the door, so it only opened about an inch before. Now I'm sure it will be a wind tunnel in there when I open it! And it will be a bug funnel, too . . . .

Guest P15-D24
Posted

is the split unit from VPW. put one on my B1 5-6 years ago and still works fine. Their is an "upside" and "downside" to the gasket and it needs to be glued in place.

Posted

with the many complaints about the robert's seal, i was a little worried about mine. i bought it from robert's back in september, but i waited to install it - today.

frankly, the seal fit with very little problem. there is clearly only one correct way to install the seal, and it can be installed upside down and left/right transposed. it is indeed about 1.5 inches "short", but in the warm sun, using four clamps and four clothespins, it easily fit. prior to putting it in place, i ran a bead of rtv blue around the channel, and then put the seal in.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

That's Mitchell Motor Parts. That's where I got mine. I had to stretch it a little bit, but it seemed to fit quite well.

Merle

Posted

I'm trying to understand what you fellers are adjusting at the two pivot points. Mine has two shouldered bolts with lock washers and nuts, and there is no adjustment slot or other provision for any adjustment evident on any of these parts. Have the vent cover and reinforcement that bolts to the two pivot points out on the bench as I write this, awaiting sandblasting. I find no adjustment provision on either the pivot bolt locations or the actuator arm arrangement. All actuator points are riveted.

Someone please tell me what I am missing here. Common sense says there must be some adjustment possible. Just haven't found it on my own yet.

Thanks

Posted
I'm trying to understand what you fellers are adjusting at the two pivot points. Mine has two shouldered bolts with lock washers and nuts, and there is no adjustment slot or other provision for any adjustment evident on any of these parts. Have the vent cover and reinforcement that bolts to the two pivot points out on the bench as I write this, awaiting sandblasting. I find no adjustment provision on either the pivot bolt locations or the actuator arm arrangement. All actuator points are riveted.

Someone please tell me what I am missing here. Common sense says there must be some adjustment possible. Just haven't found it on my own yet.

Thanks

i seem to recall that the vent attaches to the handle mechanism with four bolts/nuts, and that the reinforcements where the bolts attach to the vent (on the mechanism) have elongated holes, allowing one to adjust the vent attachment slightly up/down at the center and at the left and right sides. is that what others' mean?

Posted

Wally,

Ah, yes, I see what you mean now, looking at the pieces. The only adjustment is to the vent, itself - painted piece that shows from the outside - i between it and the brace that pivots, Each of the four very small screws that hold this part to the movable brace are slotted, and this is the avauilable adjustment that controls the amount of "crush" between the gasket and the lid. Makes sense now.

Thank you for straightening me out. I was looking for adjustment points on the movable linkage or pivot piece, which is not the case. Those two pivot points use shouldered bolts that do not provide any room for adjustment - they pivot only. Makes sense when you think about it.

Again, thanks:)

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