U-Joints

[Tom Skinner]

Gents,

Today after a ride that had vibration between 25-30mph, I pulled into the garage and chaulked my wheel, and released my emergency brake.

I then crawled under my 1948 Chrysler Royal and shook the Universal Joint.

It had excessive play.

It was then that I saw a loose Retainer Clip in my front U-Joint give way/fall out.

I know this is going to sound ignorant, but how do you take out the U-Joints,

and replace them?

I read that one removes the rear one first, then drop the Universal Shaft, then remove the front one other than that I am at a loss as to how, and where to start. Andy B has them for $79 a pop. Should I replace the Pinion Seal while I'm into it also?

Tom Skinner

Huntersville NC

(704) 912-3060

[Jim Saraceno]

Do you have the cross type or the trunion pin type. My '35 Plymouth had the old trunion pin type and I found it cheaper to buy a whole new driveshaft with the newer cross type joints (under $250) than it cost for the rebuild kits ($155 each).

I do think I ended up having to take the back joint off first.

[Tom Skinner]

Jim,

I have the cross Type, but what bolts do you undo first?

Tom

[Jim Saraceno]

Like I said, I had the trunion type so I'm not sure this would be the same for you. Each end of my driveshaft is held on with 4 bolts. I removed the 4 that bolt onto the rear, lowered the driveshaft, then removed the 4 in the front.

Once you get the driveshaft off, this link will show you how to take the u-joint apart... http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/056/cover.htm

[Dodgeb4ya]

Here are a couple pics of your U-joints. To pull the driveshaft undo the (8) 1/2" nuts at the front and rear U-joints, wedge the driveline rear end U-joint away from the rear axle pinion flange-then carefully wedge/work the front driveline U-joint off the 4 studs at the rear of the transmission brake drum. Keep the U-joint caps W/ the ears from falling off the driveshaft U-joints while removing the driveshaft. Then on the bench you can do further assembly. Mark the U-joint caps and yokes so you can reassemble exactly as they were. The round U-joint caps are pressed into the driveshaft as are most modern day rear wheel drive cars and trucks are. These U-joints are kinda hard to come by. The clips on the inside of the U-joint caps (4) keep the U-joint caps from moving sideways-both in the driveshaft and in the rear axle pinion/transmission mounting yokes.

Bob

[Tom Skinner]

Thanks!

That is a lot of help!

I appreciate your time!

Tom

[Guest 57plymouth]

You can get your U-joints at O'Reilley or Napa for half what that crook Bernbaum wants.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Chrysler C38 6 cyl U-joint part# is 947550. Same front and rear. These joints are not like modern U-joints because 2 of the caps have bolt hole ears on them.

Bob

[greg g]

The more I see of U joints, on our MOPARS the less I understand what they were thinking. My drive shaft has a ball and trunion on the fromt and a cross and ball on the back. Both on a four bolt flange that affixes to the tranny and diff.

I purchased three of my rear cross and roller type joints at swap meets because I couldn't find them 25 years ago or 5 years ago through normal sources. I had one fail and the only way I replaced it was by buying a similar drive shaft from a bone yard. that was 25 years ago. None of the parts places I took my original joint had ever seen one like it.

The one posted by dodgeb4ya is yet another combination.

This is my rear joint.

[Plymouthy Adams]

The more I see of U joints, on our MOPARS the less I understand what they were thinking. /QUOTE]

These things have lasted half a century...bet that was what was on their mind in the why of the design