Jims50chrysler Posted December 6, 2007 Report Posted December 6, 2007 Tried to pull the rear brake drums today I was using the proper puller and followed the procedure in the manual only to strip all the threads out of one of the Lug holes:( . I will have to try some heat when I get back to it. So what are my options for this hole can it be drilled and a larger lug bolt be used? can I replace all my lug bolts with studs? (that would be nice). or do I have to replace the drum if I can ever get it off? also does anyone have a suggestion on how to remove the pinion seal the pro backyard way (without the proper seal puller) Thanks in advance for your help Jim Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted December 6, 2007 Report Posted December 6, 2007 I would suggest either replacing all the bolts with studs, or redrilling and tapping all the holes. Otherwise you'll have two different sizes on one wheel. That could be a pain when changing a tire. Also, when using the drum puller, make sure all the bolts are nice and tight to keep from stripping another one. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 6, 2007 Report Posted December 6, 2007 if and when you do get the drum off..take it to a machine shop and have the damaged thread repaired with a helicoil..you can do this at home if you have access to a kit and a drillpress (drill press to bore straight concentric hole..drill press also is used in conjunction with a tap/handle for straight starting of a tap) Quote
Mr. Belvedere Posted December 6, 2007 Report Posted December 6, 2007 I have the same problem on my parts car. Can't get either side off and several stripped lugs, I was considering trying some red head or similar concrete anchor. Its a wedge anchor, poke the wedge end with the sleeve thru the lug hole in the drum and then install the puller. Then I will tighten it with the nut and washer supplied until its good and tight then attempt to re-pull the drum. Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted December 6, 2007 Report Posted December 6, 2007 Are you guys also using heat to pull the drums. Try using just a propane torch on the hub close to the axle. Heat it up good, let it cool until you hear the metal crackling, then hit the puller handle with solid hits, with a nice 4 lb. hammer and it should pop off. That's how I got mine off. Quote
Rodney Bullock Posted December 7, 2007 Report Posted December 7, 2007 Are you guy's using the right puller? My plymouth was not hard to do at all, I used the J.C. Whitney puller real heavy duty material has three legs. I have used it on my studebaker as well. I have to get another one as the last shop that used it kept it. Told me it was lost. I know they still have it. Not very expensive, you must use a 4 or 5oz hammer, maybe I can get one for Xmas:D Quote
billwillard Posted December 7, 2007 Report Posted December 7, 2007 Agin If your car runs loosen hub nut 1/2 to 1 turn and replace carter key. Now drive until you hear it pop lose. The last one I did did'nt break lose for about 10 miles but it will happen every time. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted December 7, 2007 Report Posted December 7, 2007 , you must use a 4 or 5oz hammer, A 4 or 5 lb hammer would have more punch. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 7, 2007 Report Posted December 7, 2007 folks keep bringing the big hammer into play..book specifically points out that this is NOT an accepted practice for loosening the hub...possible damage to the bearings, backing plates and thrust block... Quote
kencombs Posted December 7, 2007 Report Posted December 7, 2007 Tim, I think the reference to a hammer is for use on the puller, which is designed for this. Not to hammer directly on the axle. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted December 7, 2007 Report Posted December 7, 2007 The hammer's not for beatin' on the drum or axle shaft. It's for wackin' the knocker wrench that comes with the puller. Ain't that how the pullers are designed to be used? Quote
grey beard Posted December 7, 2007 Report Posted December 7, 2007 I always thought that's what BFH's were ferr . . . . . .(big fat hammers, ya know . . .) Quote
Jims50chrysler Posted December 7, 2007 Author Report Posted December 7, 2007 Hey everyone The old propane tourch and the 5 pound hammer trick worked but I was still worked up a sweat (it was really on there).....the rear end is off the car so driving it would be a bit of a problem. So has anyone replaced ther lug bolts with studs, I would really like to do this as it would open up my options as far as rims go (although I am probably going to run the stock rims). I am still looking for suggestions on how to get this pinion seal out as I do not have the proper tool for it and putting three screws around the outside of it and clamping vise grips on them and tapping on the vise grips did not work (I have done this in the past) I suppose I could take it out in pieces but I was hoping to get a part # off of it. Thanks for all your suggestions it is great to have this resource. Jim Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 7, 2007 Report Posted December 7, 2007 Merle...you are correct, I did not state using the hammer on the entended arms of the puller as I should have..meant to state not on the end of the puller as many people do...this is the caution in the book... Quote
Rodney Bullock Posted December 7, 2007 Report Posted December 7, 2007 A 4 or 5 lb hammer would have more punch. oop's:rolleyes: Quote
Guest 57plymouth Posted December 7, 2007 Report Posted December 7, 2007 I changed a seal using the axle once. Stick the end of the axle through, then use it like a lever to pull it out. Quote
Jims50chrysler Posted December 8, 2007 Author Report Posted December 8, 2007 I can see how that would work if the pinion was out.....but fortunatly I don't have to go that far. Jim Quote
Jims50chrysler Posted December 9, 2007 Author Report Posted December 9, 2007 Well I got my pinion seal out today!.....if your looking for a tech tip on how to do this you have come to the wrong post, I ended up using a hammer and a chisel, am I proud???? no but it is out. I am going to continue this post here http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?p=53524#post53524 as it might be better on it's own. Quote
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