Mertz Posted July 4 Report Share Posted July 4 I thought my generator was making the noise but I rebuilt it with a new bearing and that wasn’t it. Got a new battery today and fired it up and it’s making a kind of ticking noise but it’s not a lifter. I used a stethoscope and it doesn’t sound like a bearing knocking but it’s near the very front of the engine. I didn’t replace the timing chain because it looked like new. Could that be what I’m hearing. The noise wasn’t there when I adjusted the valves. The video file is to big to send. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted July 4 Report Share Posted July 4 Is the ticking at engine RPM or 1/2 of engine RPM? That might tell if it is something rotating on the crankshaft or the camshaft. At the front of the engine the mechanical fuel pump is driven off the camshaft, is the ticking coming from there? Might want to check if the pivot pin on the pump is working its way out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mertz Posted July 4 Author Report Share Posted July 4 The ticking is at idle rpm and lessens when I up the rpms. I think it is get louder with every start up. It also made a sqwelling noise when I give it more gas. No noise from the fuel pump. It seems to coming from the timing change chain area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Harrison Posted July 4 Report Share Posted July 4 Look at the belt. Esp. for cracks. It can still also ride up on the Sheave and sort of drop back making a noise you see this on a worn set of Sheaves. You could have an exhaust leak. Noises are funny they can be hard to locate. If you have a stethoscope I suppose it could be coming from the water pump. Bob Harrison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mertz Posted July 4 Author Report Share Posted July 4 The belt is new but I just reinstalled the generator so there might be an issue there. The sqwelling noise would indicate the belt. No exhaust leak found on the stethoscope but will check again. No noise from the new water pump. I think it might be the belt. Will give it a look tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted July 4 Report Share Posted July 4 Take the belt off and start the engine. Ticking noise still there it's not the gen or water pump. Showed up after adjusting the valves? Adjusters have been known to come loose. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mertz Posted July 4 Author Report Share Posted July 4 It was very smooth after adjusting the valves. Will try starting with the belt off after a close look at belt alignment. Stethoscope did not indicate valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mertz Posted July 4 Author Report Share Posted July 4 The belt is new but I just reinstalled the generator so there might be an issue there. The sqwelling noise would indicate the belt. No exhaust leak found on the stethoscope but will check again. No noise from the new water pump. I think it might be the belt. Will give it a look tomorrow. Took the belt off no noise. Put the belts back on no noise. It appears the noise was caused by either the farm made copper brake line hitting the vibration damper or the engine set up a vibration causing the tapping sound. I bent the line away from the damper and the noise went away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted July 7 Report Share Posted July 7 Copper brake lines are a no-no. Certainly not factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mertz Posted July 7 Author Report Share Posted July 7 I miss spoke. It was the farm rigged copper fuel line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted July 7 Report Share Posted July 7 Check the fuel pump too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
47 1.5 ton Posted July 8 Report Share Posted July 8 9 hours ago, RobertKB said: Copper brake lines are a no-no. Certainly not factory. I wanted to know what your thoughts are for not using these? I’m talking about copper nickel— not just straight copper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted July 8 Report Share Posted July 8 33 minutes ago, 47 1.5 ton said: I wanted to know what your thoughts are for not using these? I’m talking about copper nickel— not just straight copper? Hardware store copper tubing usually has a seam, will work harden and split under relatively low pressure. Not good. The copper nickel tubing is designed for brake applications and used on a number of late model cars. I used it for brake lines on my Plymouth as have a number of others on this forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mertz Posted July 8 Author Report Share Posted July 8 My truck appears to originally have had copper nickel. They had more of a brown color along with a shine when I polished them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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