Front corner floor pans

[rcl700]

Well I was able to bet that HF sand blaster out today. I worked for a bit on the fron floor pan that has rust damage. Well the finding were not great. Look like Swiss cheese 😵‍💫. 

So now I need to figure out the best plan of action. I don't weld but think cutting out the damage may be the only way to address it. 

If this is blasted and metal prep ed can it be fiber glassed or epoxy filled? 

[Plymouthy Adams]

that depends, you looking for a repair or a cobble......myself, cut it out, shape a donor metal to match the created hole, fix for welding with butt weld clamps, full perimeter weld and you will have not to worry ever again in your lifetime....if however you looking to cut corners by getting in getting out....by all means, throw some rosin on it.  Sell the car as if you keep it, you will likely be visiting this again.  

[Ivan_B]

What's the reason you are fixing this in the first place? If you are interested in stopping future rust, just coat this with liquid undercoating (on both sides) and carry on

If you are actually having structural damage (metal is too weak to serve its purpose) you can cut a new piece of metal and rivet it in. It will not look pretty, but it will work. If you use liquid undercoating, you can probably even leave the old metal underneath, so that someone else (or a wiser version of you 😉) can do a proper repair in the future.

I would definitely not use fiberglass, etc.

[Dave72dt]

Since you don't weld (preferred), an alternative repair method would be to make a panel and glue it in with panel adhesive (not the stuff you get from a hardware store but the kind a body shop uses to fasten panels).  You still have to cut the bad metal out.  Leaving the rotten metal in and covering over will rot both pieces.    If you decide to make a panel and pop rivet it in, still cut the rot out and seam seal top and bottom.    Fiberglass has been done and some swear by it.  Your choice.

[Ivan_B]

1 hour ago, Dave72dt said:

Leaving the rotten metal in and covering over will rot both pieces.

He sand blasted it, so it's clean as new, at this point.

 

The panel adhesive is interesting. I looked-up the 3M stuff, never heard of it before. On one hand, the bond is not as strong as mechanical but, on the other hand, you have a larger contact area, so it sounds promising. I wonder how well it keeps its properties after several years of vibration, weather, and freezing cycles 🤔

 

Weren't the German engineers experimenting with gluing planes in the early last century? It did not go well at that time, but maybe the technology has finally caught-up?

Edited April 22 by Ivan_B

[LazyK]

Automotive panel adhesive would be a possible solution. Since our cars are body on frame you are not dealing with the stress like a modern unibody vehicle that the modern adhesives are designed for. 

I used panel adhesive to replace the floor pans on a car 20 years ago and they are holding strong. I would guess today's adhesive are even better than those of 20 years ago.

Edited April 22 by LazyK

[Dave72dt]

14 hours ago, Ivan_B said:

He sand blasted it, so it's clean as new, at this point.

 

The panel adhesive is interesting. 

It still has holes in it and the bottom has not been blasted.  If moisture can get in and sit, it'll rust.  Panel adhesive has been used for years now.  A lot of roofs are now glued on as well as some doors, rocker panels.  

[rcl700]

Making some headway in getting the floor pan section cleaned out. I'll need to get some seam sealer to replace most of the factory stuff I removed. 

[OnlyMopar]

Looks great.