Getting the truck ready to drag home

[Bobacuda]

Spent about 2 hrs getting the front hubs loose and another 3 hrs getting one of the rear half loose. Haven’t touched the other rear yet. Brake shoes are rusted to drums.  
 

On the brake adjust nuts, which direction loosens the shoes?

 

And I know it got a rebuilt engine, but I suspect it was from a car and got a new number “tapped” on the block. It has the throttle linkage on top of the head.   The number. appears it was tapped on with a center punch. 
 

And the file is larger than 3 MB,  so I can’t post it. The number is

T 2  19 960. So this tells me..?

Edited April 4 by Bobacuda
Mentioned photo I could not attach

[Veemoney]

Below is a Pic showing the starting position and the adjustment arrows for moving the pads out and concentric. You want to go opposite of the directions the arrows show to loosen the pads. Don't pay attention to the straight arrows on the anchor bolts just the clockwise and counter-clockwise arrows. Hope this helps it is also located with many other tech docs on this site under the download tab.

[Robert Harrison]

Check the front LH outside frame member for your serial number.  It sounds like the number on the block could be meaningless.  Trucks had a T as the first letter on the block originally and it was a clear stamping.  I think our 39-47 models went by T1 at least for the smaller trucks.  If they left the T it could be a truck block but it likely does not matter.  Passenger car blocks were essentially the same with the small 23 inch engine series.  I assume you have the 23 inch block.  Cranks differed as the truck cranks were usually 8 bolt where as passenger cars could have been 4.  In my series 39-47 you could also have had 4 bolt cranks in the 1/2 ton.  Later 25 inch blocks had an oil filter assembly that mounted to the block where as the older long blocks had them bolted off the head.  Nice brake adjust file.  Bob Harrison

[Los_Control]

15 hours ago, Bobacuda said:

T 2  19 960. So this tells me..?

I think it is telling you it has been messed with or you read it wrong? ..... No idea 

Did you get a title with it?, what does that ID number say? In a normal world, if they stamped the rebuilt engine they would want to stamp it to match the title.

 

I'm sure you are aware of this site here,   https://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html

 

The number you posted does not look correct to me. I suppose it would not be any issue here in TX if you have the title and put it in your name ..... but if were to sell it to someone out of state and has to go through a strict inspection ???

[Bobacuda]

That is the number someone put on the engine. I’ll try to “shrink” the photo so I can post it later today.

 

I know the folks I bought it back from.  They have the title and are hunting it down. 

[Bobacuda]

Maybe the Internet Gods will allow me to post a photo of the engine number this time.

[Los_Control]

You are correct in how they stamped it ..... Hard to say what their intention was though.

 

The way I understand it, you could buy rebuilt engines from many places .... JC Whitney, Western auto .... your local gas station, Sears .... They could come with the number removed and you stamped your own number on it. Very plausible thats what they did.

 

All I can say, they stamped a number on it ..... It does not match any of the known numbers from the website posted above.

I have been told that Dodge trucks were known  known to install leftover engines at the end of the year to clear the shelf for current production.

What I mean is, my Uncle had a truck with a engine number starting with a P .... most likely a used Plymouth engine swapped into it. He claims that it could have come from the factory like that,  Dodge wanted to use all the old last year engines up to get ready for the next year models ..... No idea if that is true.

 

So I went and looked at the other numbers from Plymouth, Chrysler, Trucks ..... That number is obviously a decent attempt at a amateur  stamping job and the number matches nothing I've ever seen ..... I then went to Facebook and made a post if anyone else can figure it out .... There is a guy there that is pretty sharp and been collecting/cataloging these engine numbers for years .... be curious if he can make anything out of it .....

 

I kinda suspect someone was bored and stamped some gibberish on it and was thinking ..... This will make them work hard figuring this out ..... rolling over in his grave now laughing.

 

If you follow FB, here is the post.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/194200864347464

[Los_Control]

This is the reply I was waiting for, Erick Bannerman has been collecting this info for years .... If you can post these numbers, with his records he can probably tell you exactly what you have.

 

it is clearly an added stamp. Two questions, one what country are you in? Two, can you share pictures of the casting numbers shown by the lower two arrows in the attached image.

 

 

The very first post back, in under 2 minute. It is the invoice number from the shop that rebuilt the engine ..... With that number they can look up any needed information for warranty work .... Just a WAG, but makes sense to me.

[Bobacuda]

I’ll try to get more numbers this week end - depends on weather and access to th last owner’s ranch. 
 

I remember the engine used to have a tag that said “Campbell Rebuilt,” or something like that.

 

it looks like a car engine. To me. The throttle linkage connects to the top of the head, not to the back of the block. I’ll take some photos of that, as well,

 

Right now, I still need to finish one rear drum removal and then do the other to be able to drag it home.  Brakes are rusted to the drums. 

 

 

[Los_Control]

I just wish you good luck getting the brakes freed up .... I was lucky and mine was rolling and delivered to my driveway.

 

I do have a old Flathead Ford motor here though, to get the clutch off of the flywheel/pressure plate I literally had use a thin drywall putty knife and a hammer to drive it and separate them. .... No big deal when the motor is sitting on the garage floor exposed.

 

Just thinking about a brake shoe stuck to the drum of a tapered axle truck .... I hope it comes off easier then my clutch because you do not have the thin putty knife option available.

[Bobacuda]

Got lots of brake cleaner, PB Blaster, and an old Mother Mopar hub puller.  Got a BFH, as well.  Hope to not need a torch.  Worse comes to worse, I have an old diff I could swap in, but I would rather not. 
 

Going to use my 3/4” socket and long breaker on the brake adjusters to totally “relax” the mechanics so that only the rust, or linings that have broken loose from the shoes are the problem. 
 

And this is just to drag it home. 
🤪

Edited April 6 by Bobacuda

[Brent B3B]

I feel your pain on this Bob! I had the shoes locked to the drums in “Jimbob” my B3GA. 
what a pain! I used a winch, come-a-long a floor jack to get it on my flatbed trailer. 😵‍💫

[Bobacuda]

Not counting a lot of PB 

Blaster, this is what it took to get the rear hubs off.  Once I got the hub started coming off,I had to use the  3/4” impact socket to fit over the end of the axle, allowing me to totally pull the hub off with the puller. I took the brake shoes off to eliminate that problem in the future. 
 

Got a photo oh the engine number low on the block and the carb & linkage. 
 
But first, I need to go to the computer to shrink some photos so I can share them

 

[Bobacuda]

The tools used to remove the rear hubs

[Bobacuda]

The numbers on the side of the block, by the dipstick.

 

[Bobacuda]

Throttle linkage on top of the head. D1 E1 (?) carb.  Numbers on other side are hard to read.

[Los_Control]

1 hour ago, Bobacuda said:

But first, I need to go to the computer to shrink some photos so I can share them

No Idea what you are using to take photos with ..... I use a android phone. The factory settings on the phone is always set to the highest resolution for the best results.

I usually just go into my phone settings and reduce the resolution there .... usually is 3 or 4 different choices. ..... Your changes stay and now will not need to resize them on the computer.

 

For me it is just simpler to change the settings on the camera then to have to resize each photo.

 

Did you get it home?

[Bobacuda]

Not home yet. Got lots of crap in the bed, the cab and in the way to move.

Once the crap is out of the bed, I need to go thigh there (wood all gone) to unbolt the driveshaft and tie it up. Pretty sure the clutch is fused to the pressure plate.  Can’t get the shifter to move enough to get to neutral. 
 

Got to borrow a tow dolly, as well.

 

The guy that sold it to me said nothing had been done since he parked it. I think his son and nephew disconnected stuff playing mechanic back in the day. 

[Los_Control]

Here is the reply I got back from Erick Bannerman when I shared your casting # by the dipstick.

 

that's a 1953 23" long 217.8ci (218) engine. Probably originally from a Plymouth car or maybe a factory replacement engine.

 

Several are suggesting that it was A factory replacement engine that was shipped without a stamped number.

Any used engine that was rebuilt was already stamped at one time or another.

 

OTOH, I have heard of people grinding off the stamped # and re-stamping it for their own needs ...... not all of them went to jail for doing so  

 

I think there may be a really good chance when you get to the engine, it was a new replacement engine and not a rebuilt engine.

Who knows how many miles were put on it after it was installed ...... It might be in pretty decent shape yet with original bores & crank ???

 

Is the motor stuck?      Or does it spin like a pinwheel using your little pinky finger?

[Bobacuda]

Thanks for the detective work. Carb is open to the world, no oil in crankcase. Clutch is frozen, so no turning over. 
 

Since I still have to get it home, and I need to finally get my late FIL’s 54 Chevy wagon done, I’ll flood the engine with diesel+auto trans fluid to start dissolving stuff. 

Edited April 8 by Bobacuda

[Brent B3B]

I am sure you already did Bob but, for others reading this year’s from now, 

don’t discount the ability of a frozen starter from keeping that motor from turning either. 
No spiny on the starter, no spiny on the motor either 😁

Edited April 8 by Brent B3B
Spelling

[Bobacuda]

While taking the photo of the block numbers, I noticed the starter is not not a “stomp” starter. And as my usual Mopar luck, there has been plenty of mods done to the wiring - looks like Silly String scattered about. For example, there is a 110 V female connector mounted in the dash by a purpose unknown switch. 
 

I need to get that Chevy done just to dig into this Dodge and get a good laugh. 

Edited April 8 by Bobacuda

[Los_Control]

10 hours ago, Bobacuda said:

For example, there is a 110 V female connector mounted in the dash by a purpose unknown switch. 

Must be a Texas thing    .... My truck had a female plug coming out by the rear bumper. Good heavy wiring going to it.

 

The only scenario I can dream up, The owner was a night watchman at a construction company. I guess in his free time he would go night fishing. Sit on the tailgate and plug in a automobile head light and shine it over the water to attract fish .... I've heard light attracts fish ... I've never done it myself though.

 

Same time I guess a guy could use a extension cord rigged to a head light and use it for a work light. ...... These were common articles a farmer might have laying around and easy to put together and make useful. ..... A good quality flashlight back then had big bulky batteries and were probably expensive while a old car headlight bulb was probably free in the back pasture.

[JBNeal]

If'n ya put some pontoons on that project, could ya float it back to the hacienda?  We've gotten almost 8 inches today and it's still coming down 🌧

[Bobacuda]

8” of rain?  I don’t think we have had that much rain total since December.  Still drought conditions here.  It was totally overcast for the eclipse.
 

I’ll take the tractor and a rented tow dolley, hopefully within a week to get the truck - it’s only about a mile from my house.
 

They have a lot of crap on the back of the truck and around it that has to be moved.  The tractor will be good for that. The tractor also has a much better turning radius.

 

On top of that, I have to go to a barn and move all of the stuff stacked on tbe tires. It’s going to be a treasure hunt, for sure. 

Edited April 10 by Bobacuda