Replacing pivot bearings.

[rcl700]

I have been unbolting the linkage from the bell housing in preparation for engine removal. It looks to me like the clutch linkage is sloppy and possibly misaligned.  I found parts listed as shaft pivot bearing on Andy bernbaum site. They are two part. When I look on my car all I see is a bunch of dirt and grease in these sockets. I'm wondering how these are changed and if there is something that holds them in place.

 

As it is now the clutch pedal kind of thumps when first engaged and when released it looks like it over travels and shifts to the frame rail a bit. I'm wondering if the part listed above would cause this if damaged or missing.  

Edited February 15 by rcl700

[Sam Buchanan]

First step is to make sure the clutch linkage is adjusted properly. Proper "play" is needed in the pedal and the over-center spring must be adjusted properly. There is a template in our Downloads section for making the tool to adjust the over-center spring. If this spring is out of spec the pedal won't function properly.

 

https://p15-d24.com/files/file/5-overspring_toolpdf/

 

This entry is also in the tech tips section:

 

"Clunky Clutch
 For years after I got my P15 the clutch pedal would always make a loud "clunk" when you pressed it down. Clutch operation was fine, and throwout bearing free play was on the money. Adjusting the clutch overcenter spring did nothing to get rid of the noise. Finally, while replacing a master cylinder, I tore down the pedal assembly and clutch torque shaft. The balls of the torque shaft ride on spherical shaped split bronze bushings. On one side half of a bushing was missing. The clunk was the pivot ball rattling inside the remaining bushing. NAPA had replacement bushing inserts for about a buck and I was back on the road with a smooth and quiet clutch pedal."

 

 

[vintage6t]

The bushings are held in with a spring clip. The clip locates in a groove in the shaft I.D. and has "wings" that are positioned on the outer edge of the shaft. Squeeze the wings together to remove the clip. You can see one of the clip wings in the circled part of the attached picture.

[rcl700]

1 hour ago, Sam Buchanan said:

First step is to make sure the clutch linkage is adjusted properly. Proper "play" is needed in the pedal and the over-center spring must be adjusted properly. There is a template in our Downloads section for making the tool to adjust the over-center spring. If this spring is out of spec the pedal won't function properly.

 

https://p15-d24.com/files/file/5-overspring_toolpdf/

 

This entry is also in the tech tips section:

 

"Clunky Clutch
 For years after I got my P15 the clutch pedal would always make a loud "clunk" when you pressed it down. Clutch operation was fine, and throwout bearing free play was on the money. Adjusting the clutch overcenter spring did nothing to get rid of the noise. Finally, while replacing a master cylinder, I tore down the pedal assembly and clutch torque shaft. The balls of the torque shaft ride on spherical shaped split bronze bushings. On one side half of a bushing was missing. The clunk was the pivot ball rattling inside the remaining bushing. NAPA had replacement bushing inserts for about a buck and I was back on the road with a smooth and quiet clutch pedal."

 

 

Thank you sir, I will check out the link you provided. I'm sure I will need it when putting in the donor motor. 

[rcl700]

53 minutes ago, vintage6t said:

The bushings are held in with a spring clip. The clip locates in a groove in the shaft I.D. and has "wings" that are positioned on the outer edge of the shaft. Squeeze the wings together to remove the clip. You can see one of the clip wings in the circled part of the attached picture.

I went out and looked and don't see any sign of clips remaining.  It also does not look like the bearing is intact. 

Any ideas on locating replacement  clips? 

Are these split bearings used on other vehicles (same size)? If so I may be able to find some on ebay. I did  ot find another listing for the bearings under 1948 plymouth outside of Andy B. site. 

[rcl700]

1 hour ago, vintage6t said:

The bushings are held in with a spring clip. The clip locates in a groove in the shaft I.D. and has "wings" that are positioned on the outer edge of the shaft. Squeeze the wings together to remove the clip. You can see one of the clip wings in the circled part of the attached picture.

I went out and looked and don't see any sign of clips remaining.  It also does not look 

 

Edited February 16 by rcl700

[Sniper]

These style bearings were used thru the last of the manual transmissioned RWD cars, had a set in my 87 Diplomat.  However, at some point the material was changed to nylon. Part number is 2265938 for the nylon, 635884 for the original style

 

As for the clips, they are called snap rings in the parts manual, which btw you should have and Rockauto sells, part number 1140557

Edited February 16 by Sniper

[rcl700]

Thanks AB was $15 flat rate shipping for these bearings and a shift fork bushing. 

45 minutes ago, Sniper said:

These style bearings were used thru the last of the manual transmissioned RWD cars, had a set in my 87 Diplomat.  However, at some point the material was changed to nylon. Part number is 2265938 for the nylon, 635884 for the original style

 

As for the clips, they are called snap rings in the parts manual, which btw you should have and Rockauto sells, part number 1140557

Thank you for this information. 

I tried of of the part numbers provided at the rockauto site and it says no matches found. Am I searching this incorrectly? 

[Sniper]

You will have to google those numbers, they both came up for me, but not at RA, what RA does sell is the parts manual.

[desoto1939]

I know Andy B sells the metal style bushings and they are not that expensive. I think around $5 each.  Not everyone carries these items so get them now and have a set because eventually you will need them.

 

In this hobby it is better to be prepared with extra parts. I have been collecting parts for my 39 Desoto for the past 35 years.

 

The car is in the shop this week and the mechanic has asked if I had specific suspension parts and I went to my supply area and pulled the parts he needed and delivered them to him in 30 minutes from his phone call.

 

Also the cost of these parts were much cheaper then todays prices so when you see something for your car at a swap meet better byt the item for future installation. If never installe it can also be sold to the next owner of the car or put up for auction again.

 

Here is a little secret I use on my boxes of parts. On the inside lid I put the date when purchased and the the amt I purchased it from and then another two number.

 

So here is an example  Breaker Plate IGS3004A  on the inside flap  date is 111024150024.   First six are the date of purchase then what I paid and an ending two number.

 

So if a byer ask about a price and he is not offering my  asking price I can look at the flap and know that i spent 15 for the item and then we can negotiate a price. But know I know I need to get 25 or more for the item.

 

Makes life real simple when selling items at a swap meet or even at Hershey.

 

Rich Hartung