47 Plymouth - installing ignition lock cylinder

[46Chris]

Either the key is too worn down or there's an issue in the cylinder, but the key just won't turn to the right.  I fiddled with it when picking up the car and managed to get it to to turn, but now I've just been trying for 20 minutes and no amount of jiggling will get the key to turn.  On MoParCo I see an ignition lock cylinder.  Am I on the right track? 

 

I removed the screw holding the whole assembly to the dash and then got the chrome cap off, but it's not obvious how the cylinder comes out of the housing.  

 

Thanks, Chris

[vintage6t]

You can try lubricating the cylinder tumbler with a dry graphite lubricant made for locks. Just squirt some in the key hole and work the key in and out. Dont use oil or any other wet lubricant though.

 

Also you can't get the cylinder out of the housing without turning the key.  There's a small pin you can see flush with the outer housing. Turn the key and you'll be able to push the pin in, releasing the cylinder from the housing.

 

If you can't get the cylinder to turn with the key and you're going to replace it, then just drill the cylinder key hole out. That will release the tumblers and then you'll be able to turn the cylinder with a screwdriver.

[46Chris]

Thanks @vintage6t it would be great if the dry graphite works, since the key turned easily for me a few times before I bought the car.  I do see a hole in the housing where one might expect to see a pin, just opposite the screw hole to attach the housing to the dash.
 

if I drill down that hole to release the cylinder, 1) how will the new cylinder be secured in the housing? And 2) is the cylinder I linked from MoParCo the one I need?

 

Thanks, Chris 

[Sniper]

2 hours ago, 46Chris said:

On MoParCo I see an ignition lock cylinder.  Am I on the right track? 

 

Not really, that'll use a later model key than your 47 used so it won't be able to match the door locks any more.  Bernbaums might have what you need, but ask specifically about the key.

 

In the picture of your link there is a brass button sticking  out the side, that is what engages the housing and keeps the cylinder in place.  To remove it you have to rotate the cylinder to the right (CW, I know) and then there should be a hole in the  side of the housing that will allow you to push that button in and pull the cylinder out of the housing,

 

BTW, that same cylinder,, STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS US12L is under $8 at Rockauto.  You can even get it for less (thank moparpro) at NAPA, lol.

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE98900021

 

Standard doesn't show that it fits a 47, but the factory parts book shows 35-54 all use the same, so it should fit.

 

I had to have keys cut for my 51 a couple years ago, didn't have door, glove box or trunk keys.  So I took them to my local locksmith and he took care of me but did mention it was a good thing I didn't need anything rekeyed as he didn't have the correct pins and they were hard to get/unavailable.  At sometime int he past someone repalced my ignition lock with that US12L one so that's how I know the key won't work with the door.

[46Chris]

Thanks @Sniper!  I don’t mind keeping a key just for the ignition.  And I appreciate the install guidance and the lower cost sourcing!  

[9 foot box]

   I would try the other keys that you were given. But to get the tumbler out, it needs to be turned to the left for the small brass button to be depressed. Then pull it out. The ignition key works on my doors, the other key locks the trunk, a third key locks my glove box. I have used a KS6482 tumbler in a couple instances, but not in my P15’s. The Pentastar key just look’s wrong in a vintage car. Try what has been suggested before you Dremel down the brass button to get it apart. It worked before, it wouldn’t just fail.  Rick D.

[Sniper]

Just now, 9 foot box said:

it needs to be turned to the left

 

Wait, is it CW or CCW?  I misremember anymore, lol

[46Chris]

4 minutes ago, 9 foot box said:

   I would try the other keys that you were given. But to get the tumbler out, it needs to be turned to the left for the small brass button to be depressed. Then pull it out. The ignition key works on my doors, the other key locks the trunk, a third key locks my glove box. I have used a KS6482 tumbler in a couple instances, but not in my P15’s. The Pentastar key just look’s wrong in a vintage car. Try what has been suggested before you Dremel down the brass button to get it apart. It worked before, it wouldn’t just fail.  Rick D.

Thanks @9 foot box Two keys came with the car - trunk and ignition/door.  Both repros.  Since the ignition key won’t operate the door locks, I could have a key cut issue as well.  Going to focus on the dry lube - as you say, it did work a few times.  If for whatever reason that’s unsuccessful and I do have to drill to release the cylinder and replace with later model keys for now, I’d feel better knowing the key will work.  

[Sniper]

Do not drill anything, not need to release the cylinder.

[46Chris]

@Sniper Going to get some dry graphite at Ace tomorrow morning.  The hole for the cylinder release is directly in line with the key in its 12 o'clock locked position.  It would appear I could just insert a nail in the hole, press down, and pull out the cylinder (?).  I've ordered a US12L, it'll arrive on Thursday.   Was hoping to get the '47 to the storage facility today, before the snow starts to fly.  The car obviously had other plans...

[vintage6t]

9 hours ago, 46Chris said:

 

if I drill down that hole to release the cylinder, 1) how will the new cylinder be secured in the housing? And 2) is the cylinder I linked from MoParCo the one I need?

 

I suggested worst case drill out the key hole not the retaining pin.

[vintage6t]

9 hours ago, Sniper said:

Do not drill anything, not need to release the cylinder.

The OP claims the cylinder won't turn at all. Not sure how he's going to push in the release pin if the cylinder can't be turned.

[46Chris]

Worked with the dry graphite for quite awhile this yesterday, even inverted the switch and tapped on it to get the graphite up in the tumblers.  No joy.  Ordered the entire switch from MoParCo, expedited delivery.   Working in the driveway in 22° weather and snow is a motivator - need to be able to drive Blue over to the storage facility before the snow and cold really hit.  Of course, the key will probably turn in the cylinder as soon as the new switch arrives, but so it goes.  Appreciate all the help, just decided to take the easy way out.  And I will label every wire

[Sniper]

It's MoparPro and he is persona non grata around here for a reason. 

[46Chris]

Just now, Sniper said:

It's MoparPro and he is persona non grata around here for a reason. 

Thanks @Sniper for the correction.  I did cast a wide search net, found a couple other sources for more $ but looked to be the same part.  

[joecoozie]

9 minutes ago, Sniper said:

It's MoparPro and he is persona non grata around here for a reason. 

Agree 1000%

[JerseyHarold]

Try using a heat gun on the lock cylinder from the keyhole end.  It might soften up some old hard grease that's gumming things up.

[46Chris]

Just now, JerseyHarold said:

Try using a heat gun on the lock cylinder from the keyhole end.  It might soften up some old hard grease that's gumming things up.

Thanks @JerseyHarold love that idea!  Going to run an extension cord out there now.  Best i can do is a hair dryer with a nozzle.