Taking Out My Clutch In My 48’ Plymouth

[Riley N]

Hello, I have a 1948 Canadian Plymouth Special Deluxe. It’s a Plodge(mix of plymouth and dodge parts because it’s canadian), I am planning on taking out my clutch and i was wondering if anyone had somethings i should know before I take it out?(in approx. 1 week from when i post this). as well as, considering this is the first time i’m taking a clutch out alone, is there any tips someone with more experience would be willing to give to me? 

Edited August 14, 2023 by Riley N

[Dan Hiebert]

Browse some of the transmission removal / installation threads for tips on making that aspect somewhat easier, since the transmission has to come out to remove the clutch.  There are also a few threads relating to work on the clutch.  Both are topics that have been discussed at length herein.  There are always lingering questions or clarifications needed afterwards, but a good browsing session will help start getting your head around the task.  I am not good at searches, but others here are quite adept at it and can help.  I haven't messed with the clutch in our D24 in 30 years or so, but I've done clutches in other cars in the interim.  Safety would be my primary concern if doing that job alone.  Proper tools to jack the car up, support it, remove and install the tranny (if you don't have the strength to do it unassisted - you have to be honest with yourself there), and alignment devices so you're not fighting the clutch or tranny.  

[Curt Lee]

Plus two hundred on being honest about your strength and the weight of the entire assembly!! I've wrestled with Falcon Peanut trannys that whipped my butt even though they're only about 50lbs or so; the tight area and angle of attack were always against me. I could guess and say the MoPar tranny and bell housing and parking brake are probably 200 pounds or more. Get the use of a transmission jack! A floor jack WILL NOT CUT IT. Make a set of alignment studs for the bell housing. 

[Sam Buchanan]

3 hours ago, Riley N said:

Hello, I have a 1948 Canadian Plymouth Special Deluxe. It’s a Plodge(mix of plymouth and dodge parts because it’s canadian), I am planning on taking out my clutch and i was wondering if anyone had somethings i should know before I take it out?(in approx. 1 week from when i post this). as well as, considering this is the first time i’m taking a clutch out alone, is there any tips someone with more experience would be willing to give to me? 

 

A question---why does the clutch need to be removed? 

 

But if you have decided it definitely has to come out it can be done singlehandedly, I've done it on my '48 P15. The transmission isn't overly heavy, I estimate about 60-70 lbs since I can pick it up off the floor and set it on the work bench. The tranny comes out separate from the bell housing. I use a floor jack with a crude wood cradle within which the tranny is secured with ratchet straps. You definitely want to use alignment pins for removal and installation of the transmission. Order the correct clutch alignment tool, it has unique splines that you won't find in the local auto parts store. I assume the floor boards of your car can be removed which greatly improves access to the transmission.....if not, your job will be much more difficult unless you have access to a lift. The engine will have to be supported when you pull the bell housing because it includes the rear mounts....might as well replace them, too.

 

Be VERY selective about the release bearing you install, many of the aftermarket bearings are junk. A complete clutch job also includes refacing the flywheel which is another large complication to this job and requires pulling the oil pan and probably the rear crank bearing cap. 

 

Did I mention to be sure that clutch really needs to come out?! 

 

This is a major job if you aren't accustomed to heavy mechanical work but it can be done with sufficient prep and a methodical approach. Hope these thoughts are helpful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 14, 2023 by Sam Buchanan

[Young Ed]

Why are we pulling the oil pan to remove the flywheel?

[Riley N]

5 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

A question---why does the clutch need to be removed? 

 

But if you have decided it definitely has to come out it can be done singlehandedly, I've done it on my '48 P15. The transmission isn't overly heavy, I estimate about 60-70 lbs since I can pick it up off the floor and set it on the work bench. The tranny comes out separate from the bell housing. I use a floor jack with a crude wood cradle within which the tranny is secured with ratchet straps. You definitely want to use alignment pins for removal and installation of the transmission. Order the correct clutch alignment tool, it has unique splines that you won't find in the local auto parts store. I assume the floor boards of your car can be removed which greatly improves access to the transmission.....if not, your job will be much more difficult unless you have access to a lift.

 

Be VERY selective about the release bearing you install, many of the aftermarket bearings are junk. A complete clutch job also includes refacing the flywheel which is another large complication to this job and requires pulling the oil pan and probably the rear crank bearing cap. 

 

Did I mention to be sure that clutch really needs to come out?! 

 

This is a major job if you aren't accustomed to heavy mechanical work but it can be done with sufficient prep and a methodical approach. Hope these thoughts are helpful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you!! yes i’m very sure it needs to come out

[Sam Buchanan]

4 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

Why are we pulling the oil pan to remove the flywheel?

 

I had to remove the rear crank cap to be able to remove the flywheel bolts. I understand that isn't necessary in all applications but definitely was in mine....I think my memory is correct about this.......

Edited August 14, 2023 by Sam Buchanan

[Young Ed]

2 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

I had to remove the rear crank cap to be able to remove the flywheel bolts. I understand that isn't necessary in all applications but definitely was in mine.

Yes that's true. In a perfect world the bolts are good and can stay in place while the flywheel comes off to get fixed

[Sam Buchanan]

3 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

Yes that's true. In a perfect world the bolts are good and can stay in place while the flywheel comes off to get fixed

 

 The bolts were about 1/8" too long......and that flywheel is heavy, I huffed and puffed with it more than with the tranny until I gave up and pulled the bearing cap!   ?

Edited August 14, 2023 by Sam Buchanan

[plymouthcranbrook]

When I did my 52 back in 2006 or so I did not remove the flywheel. It looked good and a ruler over the face showed no real imperfections.  I did change the pilot bearing which was a battle that I probably did not have to do.  I wasn’t as careful as some about exact replacement of components as I have done several clutches in the past with no problems. Mine still works good today.  That said if it were to act up now I might just sell the car reather than attempt to retackle it.

[Dartgame]

A few suggestions/comments.

 

Does your rear main seal leak ? How about the oil pan, has it been off for cleaning inside ? You might consider both since you will be most of the way there with the flywheel out for the clutch install.

 

Also as someone else mentioned make sure to get a high quality release bearing. Be sure its an angular contact bearing design, most are not in the aftermarket.

 

I'd suggest you investigate obtaining the largest diameter clutch for your car. Often the flywheels are drilled for two sizes, the larger in my case was a 10inch. Hard to find, but once you have both pieces they can be remanufactured in the future if needed.

 

When I installed the R-10 overdrive trans, I needed my adult sons help, it was very heavy. We used a transmission jack, and still had major issues getting the splines to line up on the clutch disc and trans input, and yes we used the proper clutch alignment tool....