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I created the following graphic illustrations  for those that are approaching the topic of adjusting their valves on a MOPAR 6. 


- There are many ways to go about this. This way is for people that are going to more closely follow the original factory methods whereby one does this work on an engine at operating temperature and when that very same engine is turned off. 

- Valve adjustments vary between early MOPAR FLATHEADS (early 1930s) and later MOPAR FLATHEAD motors. Generally, the early years warm engines have their INTAKES at .006 and their EXHAUST at .008. Later years seem to come in at INTAKES .008 and EXHAUST .010. Know what you setting should be. 

This guide allows you to adjust ALL the valves by rotating the crank in only two positions. With the #1 cylinder in Top Dead Center you can do a great number and then, by rotating the crank one full 360 rotation, you can do all the rest. Yes, some valves do duplicate, but you dont have to do them twice.

The PDF you CAN SEE you can zoom in on. The PDF file will allow you to down load a high resolution printable document
I will set these in in multiple posts as the files are large


- You see a jpg file below that you can zoom in on partially

- The PDF file can be downloaded in high definition and printed out. 








Edited by Semmerling
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Good stuff, consider putting this either in the tech section, or in the down loads area of this site.  Lots of folks who visit this forum are probably unaware of the information that can be found iunder those dropdown sections.  Lots of tips, procedures and fixes contained.

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  • Semmerling changed the title to ADJUSTING VALVES - MOPAR FLATHEAD 6 - Speedy Guide
Posted (edited)

GREG G.....I struggle with the layout here. What follows is meant to be helpful.

Downloads is dissimilar to any other section here. It looks like a place to store static graphic, got that. The issue is the layout and the selectable filters on the right make no sense at all. I loaded stuff in there and had difficulty navigating back to them, literally vanished and took time to find. The same images appear on that header page regardless of how old they are, leave and come back and the same old images are there forever it seems. A straight up Chronological last loaded would work much better and the typical search would as well.  No idea how to get that section to do anything that makes sense. A place to see scanned images not anything about "How To Get Something Done" except for scanned static manuals etc. 

Static single load with no seeming way to enter anything new, make corrections, observations, etc. . Odd order, unsearchable. Just don't get it. The actual data in there is good but without direct comments very limited one time stop. I did the adjusting valve illustration from that data because, as presented, it raised more questions than answered them, 

Getting weirder now....all static loads....again. Not searchable and not in any meaningful order
That section needs to be added....somewhere....and flushed away forever...just about useless. Nothing their but a single page read. Just don't get it.

So...I dropped it here...in something called TECHNICAL ARCHIVES
Chronological Build and searchable. Makes sense, people can interact and stuff can be found.

In short.....

Keep a single Image location: Make it so that the newest is shown when a viewer arrives to the page. Make it searchable.
Keep a single technical section for each major already existing model/year whatever here at P-d. Make it chronological and searchable as well.
Move the material from the other two and flush them....way too complicated and confusing. Thanks for reading this far.

Edited by Semmerling
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When trying to follow these instructions, the my valves weren't opened and closed in the same pattern as your illustration. I set the ones that were closed. A running temp motor no longer warm before you can finish setting all the valves. Now she won't start and it has an uneven gallop when turning over.  What have I done wrong?

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Posted (edited)

Only thing that would come to mind is that your distributor wasnt set into the block in the proper rotation. 

Do this...

Look at your head near the fire wall.
Near Cylinder #6 (closest to the firewall) there should be a small plug that you can take out.

That is directly over the #6 cylinder.
Get a long thin and straight wooden rod that can easy slip into that hole AND WONT DROP IN and it will rest on top on the piston
Rotate the fan and that stick will eventually rise to TDC.
Look at your distributor, the rotor when that stick is at its highest should be at either of the two point shown in the diagram.
You want to rotate until it is at TDC and the rotor is at 7 to 8ish. Then #1 (nearest the fan) is ready and you can get to work.
One full 360 rotation will get you to stick up at #6 (firewall) and you can do the rest. 
If your distributor has the stick UP at TDC and it isn't as shown, your distributor was improperly set into your block. 


Edited by Semmerling
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Glad to hear that it all came together.

I would be interested in the following:

When the engine was warm and you did some fine tuning on the valves that you set cold at .010 and .012, what did you find?
- How much off was the final warm adjustment
- Did the intake valves pretty much hold true and the exhaust valves need the attention?


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