Voltage regulator/generator

[bacelaw]

Hi all:  41 wagon, 6v positive system all original.  While running, when I test battery voltage, I get 1,000 (yes, one thousand) volts... I've used 2 different multimeters.  This can't be normal right? 

[Sniper]

Not normal, please setup your meter reading that and post a picture of your meter. 

[Los_Control]

I'm curious how it could even be possible .... maybe if you were working on the space shuttle .... a 41 Plymouth 6 volt generator .....I'm not buying that.

[bacelaw]

 

20230306_113332.heic

[Sniper]

Try using a standard format as I cannot open the one you posted

[busycoupe]

I could open it on my ipad.  He has a HF meter set to dc voltage and it reads 1888.  The image does not show how the leads are plugged in.  

[Sniper]

Had to convert it to a jpg.  Apple sux.

 

You aren't reading 1000.  If you were every bulb in your car would have popped. 

 

[bacelaw]

I agree, I've used two multimeters and both show the same...it actually fluctuates all over the place but generally pegs at 1800 or more.

[Los_Control]

I think the issue is the setting you are using. You have it set to 1000 DCV.

 

We are expecting to see something under 10 volts .... 14.5 volts on a 12 volt system.

Set your meter to 20, you should get a accurate measurement then.

 

 

[bacelaw]

When I put the meter on the appropriate setting, I get a reading jumping from 9 to 19 rapidly.

[Los_Control]

Not sure what else to advise.  That is the correct setting, just confirmed it with my meter.

Without the engine running, check your battery ..... what does it read? Mine reads a steady 6.24 volts. <---- we are verifying your meter reads correctly.

 

I have been using my meter the last week on that setting. My daily driver the battery has been taking a crap on me. I checked the battery with the truck running and got a steady 14.5 volt reading... So I knew my alternator was good.

 

If things are working correctly, your meter should not be jumping around with the engine off & checking the battery.

If it does jump around, I'm going to guess your meter is malfunctioning.

 

If it reads correctly with the engine off, then jumps around with the engine running .... beyond my scope or knowledge of a generator/voltage regulator system.

[bacelaw]

Steady 6.35 with engine off, with both meters, so the battery and meter are good to go...I just can't get a steady reading with the engine running, it jumps from 9 to 19 volts which seems strange.  Dash ampmeter also jumps, especially when car is cold - seems to stabilize when hot.  My concern is that the regulator isn't working and will overcharge the battery.

[Los_Control]

With this information, I think someone can help you .... I just do not know. .... Maybe the voltage regulator is the problem.

I guess maybe just check all your wiring connections & grounds from generator > voltage regulator > amp gauge.

 

Without any help, I would want to check the manual on how to check the generator .... possibly just remove the field & armature wire going to the voltage regulator.

Then check to see what the generator is putting out.  If it is putting out a steady voltage & meter not jumping around .... generator is probably ok?

 

Just seems like something is shorting out in the system .... could be the windings in the generator.

Could be a loose wire or poor ground or connection.

Could be the voltage regulator .... I have no idea how serviceable your voltage regulator is .... seems in my opinion cheaper to replace it then mess with it.

 

Again I dunno, just my ideas on how I would approach it.

 

 

[Dave72dt]

All of the generator control is in the regulator.  Something is sticking, burnt or corroded in it.

[Sniper]

I'm wondering is you are reading what is essentially AC?  Intermittent DC out in other words?  What does it read if you put the scale to AC?

[Dave72dt]

I would expect to see it bouncing between 0 and 7.+ instead of the 9 to 19 if it was intermittent. 

[bacelaw]

I will open up the voltage regulator and see what the connections look like, and/or just replace it.  If I just swap the voltage regulator, generator doesn't need to be re-polarized or anything does it?

[Dave72dt]

Follow the service manual's test procedures first.  I believe it to be in the regulator but I'm a long way from you and can only give you my best guess based on what's been posted.  Troubleshooting is based on logic using known test results and how the system works.  Be sure you need to part before you buy it.

[Sniper]

1 hour ago, Dave72dt said:

I would expect to see it bouncing between 0 and 7.+ instead of the 9 to 19 if it was intermittent. 

 

At this point I would have put my Fluke Scopemeter on it and see what was coming out.

[Los_Control]

I'm thinking you could just remove the wires from the generator then test it ... not sure what the manual says.

We are talking 5 minutes & you can clean the connections while there.

 

In my mind, That generator is the heart of the system .... I would want to know it was working exactly as it should.

 

The voltage regulator is a very likely suspect for your problem .... Also is a item that wears out and eventually needs replaced. ..... I would not hesitate to order a new one and have it on hand or in a box in the trunk. .... Just like having a extra set of points/condenser available on a road trip.

 

I'm just saying I would first test the generator  to see you do not get the same goofy readings.  Then automatically order a new voltage regulator & install it.

One of those items that I would not mind having a known good one riding around in the trunk.

That is not troubleshooting ... simply replacing known parts that wear out ... & todays parts coming from over seas, I would not mind having a known good spare.

 

C'mon @Sniper you know you want a Gardner Bender 

 

[Sniper]

1 minute ago, Los_Control said:

C'mon @Sniper you know you want a Gardner Bender 

 

I actually do have a Scopemeter though.

 

[Los_Control]

Just now, Sniper said:

 

I actually do have a Scopemeter though.

 

When I was doing remodel work ... as lead carpenter I needed to be on the job site to direct the plumbers, electricians, granite installers, hardwood floors installers ...

I was always whored out to the electrician to help along with the install. ...... Fluke was always the name brand tool to buy.

 

Whats available to me locally is the GB, never heard of it before .... It is well built, weather resistant ... reads well .... does what I need.

 

I also think of @Sniper as some sort of electrical genius. ... Just the thought of a "scopemeter" has me running for the hills.  ???

[Dave72dt]

Well, I don't have a Fluke anything, but I can do a lot testing with a simple test light and a cheap VOM and it's even easier if I'm onsite.  6v voltage regulators are not cheap anymore.  I'd buy 1 if I knew it was the problem.  If it became a recurring problem, I might keep one on hand.  If the generator AND the regulator were both bad, I would seriously consider an alternator conversion and I wouldn't know that without testing.

[Los_Control]

I'm with you @Dave72dt I tested my generator & only got 2 or 3 volts out of it .... c'mon it sat in a field for 20 years .... I'm just not interested in fixing it.

 

I am going straight to 12 volt with a older chebby 1 wire alternator. .... I need to replace every wire in my truck anyways.

 

I understand the struggle to keep it 6 volt & work through the problems. .... I love the dedication .... Thats not me.

 

I will drive mine everyday & just bypass the 6 volt system .... there is no right or wrong. We have what works.

I would guess rebuilding a Generator at a reputable shop would not be less then $150 .... A new voltage regulator made over sea ... $30-$50 ???

 

A chebby 1 wire alternator  is $45 ..... you pick your battles. I understand some want to restore it exactly as original.

Thats great.

 

Sometimes we need to ask ourselves what is the exact end goal.

 

[Sniper]

My 65 Cuda uses a simple mechanical voltage regulator, not as complex as the one my 51 cam with originally.  You can get a completely electronic version of it easily enough.  I wonder how hard it would be to design an electronic version of the 6v mechanical regulator?