1953 Dodge Meadowbrook

[Crisjr14]

So would like to ask if anyone can help me I am trying to do my floor pans wanted to ask is someone could tell me what gauge metal sheet I should use please any help would be appreciated thanks 

[Los_Control]

I would say 18 gauge at minimum, depends how large of patches you are making.

If they are large patches & you do not have access to a bead roller, you may want to use a heavier 16 gauge. 

 

The 18 gauge will be fine, there are ways to hammer form beads into them .... the beads make the panels stiff & rigid. ..... More work.

The 16 is pretty rigid as it is, heavier & cost more, not as easy to bend or form if needed.

 

I have a store bought floor pan for my truck. They make them out of 20 gauge, is easy to work with ... looks nice with all the fancy bead rolling.

It is so thin & flimsy, is easy to burn through when welding .... pretty sure I will need to add extra bracing under it to keep it from oil canning when you step on it.

I will make it work, 18 gauge would be my first choice.

[Dave72dt]

I prefer 18 gauge cold rolled.  Hot rolled costs less but has a scale that needs to be addressed for welding.

[DJ194950]

If much floor replacement is need use at least 18ga. cold rolled. Stronger/flatter/ and easier to weld as mentioned .

 

If possible buy a HF bead roller to put some beads in the  bigger panels.  It will stop the oil canning effect and also makes the panels stronger.  Looks good too!

 

Last I looked HF price was $175 or so?  Been awhile though.  Easy to use no college educmication required.  ?

 

Also many U-Tube videos on use of bead rollers and making replacement panels.

 

DJ

Edited January 6, 2023 by DJ194950
Add U tube info

[Crisjr14]

OK thanks alot you guys I really appreciate it I was told by a few others that the 18 gauge would work fine and the floor pan had some real bad patch work done to it just wanted to see if I could just go over it and make it more sturdy as well as make it look a little bit better but I have to ask this when a few of you mentioned the "oil canning" can someone please explain to me what that means please lol and thanks again 

[Dave72dt]

As you know, or should know, welds shrink when they cool and draws some of the surrounding metal in tighter.  The molecules expand when hot and shrink when cooling, shrinking more than they expand.   That leaves metal in surrounding areas that haven't expanded or shrunk and results in a high or sunken spot that can pop in or out similar to the old oil cans that were pumped from the bottom or like flexing the side of a soda can.   You need to either expand the weld area by planishing or shrinking the "oil canned" area.  

 

Rather than covering the bad patch work, I'd suggest cutting it out and replacing it.

[allbizz49]

Definitely cut out the bad work and do it right. Move around while welding and do short sections at a time. That will help with warping. Use an air gun to help them cool in between welding and grinding. You can warp panels dressing welds as well. I've repaired quite a bit of oil canning with heat, a wet rag and hammer and dolly work. If you get some warpage, it can be fixed. Good luck and take your time.